More custom drivetrain mounts...

Here are the rear roll restrictor and '97 hydraulic transmission mount, chopped and filled.

The rear restrictor is from a '98 SVT at the junk yard. It was sagging a bit. The two outer rubber rings were cut out. I re-centered the bolt sleeve, masked the opposite with aluminum foil tape, and poured in about 3/5 of a can of 94A. I've had one like this in my '99 3L for a several years now, and it works great.

The transmission mount on this '97 Sport was hydraulic. The SVT mounts I've seen were rubber. The '97's mount popped and dumped all the fluid. It has been completely disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt.... sorta. First, I cut the steel cap off to check out the inside. There was a valve in the middle which I removed. I thouroughly cleaned the insides. Next I cut the tabs and removed the mount completely from the bracket. I cleaned the bracket and reinstalled the mount. Using duct tape, I masked off the bottom and centered the bolt. I filled it with the remaining 2/5 of 94A. Most of that volume filled the mounts inner cylinder, leaving me a bit short of completely full. I would have preferred to fill it completely with 94A, but didn't want to mix up another can to waste most of it. 1/2 - 3/5 a can would completely fill it. Instead, I filled the remainder with 3M Window-Weld. This will solidify into a soft rubber, prevent water from collecting, and mildly reinforcing the mount. You could say, it's a one of a kind, multi compound Stage 3 mount.... but that would be ricer-ish. If this one fails, I have a spare SVT mount.

Here's a tip on using tape to mask off your mold. I've used regular grey plastic and aluminum foil duct tape and paper painter's masking tape to seal the edges. Both duct tapes work well as long as you remove it before the urethane has completely hardened. Remove in about 30 minutes to 1 hour from pouring. Once hardened, the tape is much more difficult to remove.