I have scanned the instruction Manual for the Motorcraft Fuel Pump Replacement.

This is the PFS289 fuel tank "Kit" that includes everything. Rubber O ring, Lock Ring, Convolute, Nylon Lock ring for the fuel neck, rubber grommet for the fuel neck, updated flapper etc. This kit addresses many issues with the Contour Returnless fuel system, including the stuttering/bucking (what my 00 CSVT was doing), the shutoff when filling up (didn't have an issue here), and removal of the swirl chamber/swirl pot.

The one thing that is NOT included in this kit is the Rotunda Cutter tool (Part number 310-133) which is a bronze tipped cutter that is used to nip the tabs that hold the existing swirl pot in the bottom of the tank. This tool with my discount is 180.00, and I find them online for 230+!! I checked with a local tech at the Ford Dealer and he told me that they use cutting dikes to cut them, do not twist or rock as the tabs are part of the lower tank floor. CUT ONLY. As long as they are in a ventilated area. ***DISCLAIMER** I am not advising or recommending you remove the tabs like this. This is merely what I have been told!!! Always use eye and skin protection when working with gasoline. Make sure area is well ventilated!!!

The directions are for complete tank removal but I think most of us here will be cutting a hole below the back seat.

I will post this at another board as well. Please do NOT recopy and link these photos elsewhere. I'm sharing with you guys because I am appreciative of the vast amount of information that I have received by searching the forums and doing lots of reading, so its nice to give back now and then. I will be tackling this job myself this weekend and I'll do a write up/Pictorial.




This post has been edited by BuckeyeSVT: Aug 24 2008, 09:24 AM

CONTINUED

Thats all Ladies and Gents!

I hope you found this helpful!

...thank you for the info.I pinned it for all. Think I threw my copy in the trash a few years ago!!

Um, where did the how-to go? This thread is pointless without it.

heheh, I don't even remember seeing this thread before. For retrofitting the updated pump assembly, I just used a low profile utility knife to cut the tabs off the tank bottom.

I dunno what happened....

here they are again....



This post has been edited by BuckeyeSVT: Aug 24 2008, 09:26 AM

Thanks for making these scans available
Phil

Here's some pics from my archives (2006) of a 2000 Contour SVT fuel pump installation.... I didn't install the rollover valve because he wasn't having a problem with that - Just going dry around corners.

New replacement pump kit (Ford factory cutting tool is sitting on left)


Cut floor back on sides to access pump completely.


Retainer ring removed, pump pulled out.


Inserting Ford tool to cut mounting ring out of tank.


Pic depicting the tools orientation and how to cut the tabs.


Mounting ring removed.


New fuel pump installed - Retainer installed.


Floor smoothed out, seams sealed and rubber plug reinstalled - Done!


-Dom

That is a really neat job, suddenly Im full of confidence.
Im so grateful Im embarrassed so Im not saying any more.
Phil

I am going to have to get this done as when my 2K gets under 1/4 tank it will just cut out under high load. and the scary thing the other weekend was I took an on ramp pretty fast and after that with less then 1/4 tank any time I gave it any gas it would just fall on its face. luckly there was a rest area pretty close and I was able to fill up and the problem went away ... that and I found alot of crap in the fuel filter when i replaced it ....

This post has been edited by BrApple: Aug 25 2008, 06:29 AM

Thanks for fixing it buckeye!

I wish I knew you had that tool! I would have rented it from you!

This post has been edited by wchain: Aug 25 2008, 08:31 AM

Thanks for the info and pics!
I finally have some confidence to do this since I have a preview of what needs to be done!

This is the the sorta of info that -- well it's awesome good detail.

I have two 98's early 07\97 and late 98 08\98. The early one I pulled the pump over last week-end and inspected all looks AOK the filter wing is clean, which I guess maybe the reason it's still working after 11 years & 80+k miles. I'm thinking all the Techron over the first 4-5 years and since then been experimenting with acetone has maybe kept it clean? Or maybe it's because, 99%of the time, never letting the tank go below 1/2 tank except on trips and that's only a short time. OR could be just plain dumb LUCK??????
This pump was marked 97BP-9H307-BB which after 3-4 number changes as of 08-25-08 is now F8RZ-9H307-BD This is ok til 12-09-97 built dates. I forgot to measure the round cover plates diameter which after taking the 08/98 apart today (yes the early back on the road today) appears to be larger diameter?

The late 98 08\98 has the issue with the smaller floor pan access hole but is still a return type design. It seems the pump's round stainless steel mounting disc is slightly small and my early 98. I think it may have enough clearance but didn't try to remove the pump? After carefully using 2X4 and crow-bar prying/lifting the opening on left, right/door sides and back side of the opening is now same height as the front (clearance is 3/4" or more all the way around between floor metal and tank) It looks level with the front edge and the rubber seal fits nicely.
This pump was marked 98BP-9H307-AB which now crosses to F8RZ-9H307-AE and costs about $60 more than the early pump? The returnless pump starts after built dates 05-02-99!
In case someone wondering why did I mess with something thats working, well it's this early forced retired fixed budget only allows one licensed/insurance covered vehicle on the road at a time! That's why the 08/98 it's my spare/back-up and just like in the military I can swap parts or compare how things comes apart /etc. Unfortunately unlike the military this run of vehicles, the parts changed faster than the model years changed. BEAN-COUNTER engineering!!!!! Hopefully this makes sense?