Ok, ok, ok! I know I

have been explained the difference between surface scratches and swirls, but I had to use that term to get you to read this

post. LOL

Many times the 'hand swirling' is from a few sources and the errors can build up into what many

people call 'Swirls or Spiderwebbing". Here are some application tips to help you reduce their appearance:


/>Apply the surface protection (natural or synthetic) (I'll just call it wax in this post) in very thin layers.

/>One reason is that it will be quite easy to do a final buff. It also reduces waste as only a very small amount will bond

with the surface anyway.

Use light dusting motions to buff off your wax.
It shouldn't be necessary

to exert much of any force to buff off the surface protection. Just simple, light and somewhat quick "dusting" should do the

trick. Also, follow the MFR's guidelines on how long to let the wax bond for.

ReApply the surface

protection over hardened wax.
If for some reason you got called away and the wax has gotten very hard and more than a

light dusting won't remove it simply massage more surface protection over top. The same suspending products that were in

the now hardened matter can loosen the dried matter in a much safer way than exerting force.

Apply in a garage if

possible.
There's plenty of stuff floating around in the air that can land on your car that are so fine that you

won't notice your buffing it into your paint. If you leave your car for an extended period of time with your surface

protection on you car make sure that all necessary precautions are take to minimize/eliminate the threat of dirt or dust

particles falling on your car.

Don't Karate Kid you ride
The ol' "wax on wax off" Mr. Miagee

(sp) taught has been one of the biggest culprits of those light surface blemishes. I've had many laughs at the Eagle1 ad

on TV too. (If you are trying to remove/reduce the appearance of a scratch it will be necessary to use varying motions but

we're talking about waxing here). One way to do this is to use up-and-down motions on the vertical surfaces and

front-to-back on horizontal surfaces. Always make sure you apply it to give ample coverage to the panel you're working

on.

Wipe the wax on with a sponge applicator if possible.
Simply because it is a soft smooth surface.

/>
The final layer between your paint and the elements and it should be abrasive-free.
There should not be a

reason to introduce an abrasive that is designed to remove blemishes unless you are actually trying to remove a scratch.

Surface Prep after the clay bar is always a good idea but I suggest that you use the mildest product you can get away with to

remove/hide blems. Many PreWax cleaners do this and it should stay in the PreWax step.

Apply multiple layers in

one day.
Usually the first layer of wax can take a bit more effort to apply. However, each subsequent layer is

generally easier than the first thus reducing the overall force exerted in the application.

I am sure others have

their own tips to add to this.

dude you are a crazy man. how long

have you been in the car business?

Longer than you have been

reading obviously
href='http://www.fordcontour.org/FCOForums/index.php?act=ST&f=8&t=1298'

target='_blank'>http://www.fordcontour.org/FCOForums/index...t=ST&f=8&t=1298

I just use Meguires Liquid

Gold on my black Infiniti and NEVER use an automatic carwash with brushes....
I also use Classic Gold on the leather...

Meguire's Extra

Clean or Turtle Wax Extra Clean. I can't stand liquid wax. And they both give about the same finish after 3 coats.