Building on a topic I started regarding Fog Lamps, here is the "How to" post I promised. To kick things off, take a look at this photo:
 headlights3.jpg ( 165.32K ) Number of downloads: 25

This is my '95 Mystique, and as part of my re-wiring / brake job/ A-arm ball joint /oil & filter job, I went ahead and got a brand new set of headlights from Bill Jenkins at Team Ford. That new one is seen in the middle as installed. The other two are the ones I had removed. The bottom one is a "before restoration," and the top one is the "after." I finished the bottom one last night, and went ahead and did the headlights from my "new" '95 Contour and its fog lights. Here they are all together:
 DSCF2378.JPG ( 348.31K ) Number of downloads: 23

That would make a fancy grille, wouldn't it!

Before I describe the technique, I'll describe what I've tried before. My old headlights were so yellow and crazed, when a car drove behind me at night, its low beams cast my car's shadow over my high beams! Replacement headlights for the old Contour cost around $50 each, the old Mystique's cost around $70, and the new 98+ style is over $240 each! If you find that you've become a fleet operator like myself or OB1, this can add up. I've tried using new light bulbs, the big buffing wheels on my drill, plastic scratch repair kits using sandpapers, and Turtle Wax and none of them worked. But when I used the last three together, I found success! Here's the list of materials:

3M wetordry sandpaper: 350, 600, 1500 and 2000 grit, about $6 from the hardware or automotive store
MICRO-MESH FINISHING KIT, $19.15 + shipping
Craftics Plastic Buffing Kit, $8 + shipping
An arbor for the buffing wheel and a drill
two containers for water
one saucer
towel
old t-shirt
scissors

1. First, disconnect the high beam and low beam connectors and removed the three clips that retain each headlight. You will have to remove the battery to get to the one on the driver's side. You do not need to remove anything else, even from the Mystique, as the headlamp assemblies will pull straight out.

2. Make sure the light bulbs are still secure in their sockets, as we are going to get everything wet and we don't want any water getting in. Wash the headlight assembly, using dish soap as needed. We need to get every loose grain of sand and grit off that we can, because it is our enemy from here on out!

3. Cut a 3" x 4" piece from each sheet of the wetordry sandpaper. We will start with the 350 grit sandpaper, which we'll use to cut through all the yellow plastic. Under a stream of water in the sink, wrap the sandpaper around the sanding block in the Micro Mesh kit, and sand back-and-forth in one direction only! Keep sanding until all of the scratches, pits, and yellow plastic are gone. Rinse the sandpaper and the headlamp and dry it with the towel. Double check that all of the scratches, pits, and yellow plastic are gone. Going over the same spot is okay at this point, just keep going in the same direction! The wetordry can wear out, cut another piece if needed.

4. Here's the important part: wrap the next-finest grade of sandpaper around the sanding block, dip it in the saucer with clean water in it, and sand in the direction perpendicular to the previous sandpaper. Re-dip in the saucer as often as necessary to keep the part wet and to remove sanding particles. Rinse off the headlamp and inspect it. The scratches in the finish should now be in the direction you've been sanding. If they're still perpendicular to the way you're sanding, you need to re-sand intil they go in the way you've been sanding! Once that criteria is largely met, rinse off the headlamp and saucer with clean water and refill the saucer.

5. Repeat step 4 through each grit-- 350, 600, 1500, 2000, 2400, 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000. Alternate the sanding direction for each grit, and don't skip any! Sanding particles from coarser grits must be removed or else you'll use them to re-scratch the surface when the get trapped in the finer grit sandpapers!

6. After the final rinse and dry, make sure the headlamp is completely dry before buffing. Attach the buffing wheel to the arbor, and attach the arbor to your power drill or drill press. Having a hand drill that has a trigger lock is useful, as it will free your hands to hold the headlamp. Get the wheel spinning and rub on some buffing compound from the kit. Buff the headlight twice, once in one direction, and again perpendicular to that direction. Buffing dust is now static- clinging to the headlamp. Blow it off and clean it again before waxing.

7. Some folks recommended "Turtle Wax," while others suggest it yellows finishes all by itself. I think of it as a sacrificial coating, taking some of the UV damage that would otherwise yellow the plastic instead. Most folks recommend stripping and re-waxing every six (6) months. That should keep the polycarbonate clear from here on. Just apply a small amout with a sponge or lint-free cloth (t-shirt) all over the surface. Let it dry to a haze, and hand buff it with a t-shrit.

8. Before reinstalling the headlamps, make sure there is no water inside. If there is, take out the light bulbs and set them aside. Let the headlamps air-dry in the sun. Clean the bulbs with alcohol and reinstall them in the assembly. Place the headlamps back where they belong and put the three clips back on. Put both lightbulb connectors back on for each headlamp. Put the battery back in as needed and test the lights before you hit the road.

It should take about an hour to do each headlight. The difference should be the the same as night and day!
 DSCF2372.JPG ( 531.85K ) Number of downloads: 22


This post has been edited by giganto: Aug 22 2008, 10:51 PM

Someone should pin this!