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Posted by PDXSVT on 29 November 2014 - 12:26 PM
FWIW, I represented a rear-seat passenger of a Contour around a decade ago; the car had been driven into a guard rail while at highway speed, rolled over, skidded down an embankment. All occupants survived. While my person "only" needed a neck/disc surgery, no broken bones or major injuries to the occupants generally, I was very impressed over how well protected they'd been.
Posted by mondeoman on 09 September 2014 - 01:29 PM
Check this out - our 'Tours are referenced TWICE in this research sanctioned by the US DOT.
Turns out that we have a few design features that were advanced for it's time. Of course the Mondeo has a feature we don't have - decontented when crossing the pond.
- 98S8P12.PDF 6.9MB 14 downloads
Posted by PDXSVT on 21 June 2012 - 02:13 PM
If we all go dogbreed, I'll never get my daughter to join for car maintenance pointers, she's Iguana/Army/Honda.
PS: In-laws might be arriving this afternoon, so here comes more strong Navy/DoD presence.
- Rish and like this
Posted by Jon Noel on 20 March 2012 - 03:22 PM
Posted by Mausito on 13 August 2011 - 05:00 PM
Posted by emdagosta on 01 September 2010 - 03:59 AM
i had a ford probe which thru these codes and we ended up taking it to ford they told us we needed a tps and a new MAss air flow meter.. we took the car home and replaced the tps for 80.00 adn cleaned the mass air flow meter out and the car ran fine until my son drove it into a telephone pole .. dont sleep while driving..also try reseting the ECU.. by unplugging the fuse and leaving it out a few minutes put back in and let idle for 10 to 20 minutes to relearn.. these are all I can suggest at the moment others may be able to help..
So I am going to start a topic on this and try explaining what is happening.
Only had the car for 3 weeks.
Right from the beginning something wasn't right. It was going when I didn't give gas.
P1125 and later P1120 pointed to the TPS (Throttle position sensor Intermittent or out of range)
After changed the TPS, it was ok for 2 days. Maybe 50km. This is the only time I felt the car was under my control, ever.
How much gas? If you press the gas in neutral up to 4000 rpm.
How do I know? When I notice it's doing it, I push the shifter neutral, that is how high it goes. It doesn't jump up, it take linearly increases in 2 or so seconds.
To get it down, all I have to do is stop the vehicle. Actually when it slows down a slow roll, that is enough.
From this you know that idle is fine, in fact it's a problem because hard to diagnose while moving. Haven't find a mechanic I can strap to the open hood yet :)
Starting up is about the same. Sometimes it will start rolling just fine but as soon as I step on the gas a bit, something else is giving it more gas.
Which is why I don't think it's a mechanical problem. It can get stuck, but how does it increase?
Like it's favorite spot is at 60km. I just notice I can take my foot off the gas and it keeps going. But in a minute or so I notice it inch up 200rpm, and then 200 more.
In fact I am most of the time just driving it lightly on the gas and see how it goes. Mayne next I step on the break, maybe need to keep my foot on the gas.
After changing the TPS I though maybe another faulty TPS or the wires get some noise, loses some voltage, but it's not really random, there is a theme to it. I have been trying to figure out what.
Something that can give gas, while moving. It doesn't think it has enough, so it keep giving it. To a point.
In fact can someone tell what is that other cable next to gas cable to the throttle?
I don't want to go back to mechanic just yet, so we can start the lets change a fuel pump, lets change the computer etc.
I do have that MaxTrip scanner, so I know there are no other codes in there.
The scanner also gives me a TPS number, but I did not find it useful. I don't even know what it means. It loves 18.4 but sometimes it will shows that in a runaway moment, other times at idle.
I did measure the resistance on the 2 TPSs , but didn't expect them to be the same. It is a pot after all.
I don't know what else to add, so add your input.
Dont forget to post back and let us know what resolved the problem it may help others in the future
Posted by BuckeyeSVT on 05 April 2010 - 09:26 PM
I imagine I could find the issues quickly and get the engine in shape to tune.. As a engine tuner is only as good as the engine builder. Crap in, crap out... as they say.
Posted by SVTDEMON on 05 April 2010 - 10:55 AM
Posted by wantansvt on 25 March 2010 - 03:29 PM
thats just me two cents
Posted by Terry Haines on 12 March 2010 - 07:48 AM
Both high and low speed modes of the fans operate via two relays in the battery junction box.
When on low speed with twin fans BOTH fans run at low speed ..not just one.
On high speed BOTH run at high speed..One fan is not low and the other high.
At low speed the current that is fed to BOTH fans is via the resistor in the circuit..
A single fan runs the same system...either direct 12 volts or via the resistor..Check the relays first.
Posted by powell1973 on 08 March 2010 - 10:06 AM
Posted by BuckeyeSVT on 07 March 2010 - 08:47 PM
Posted by SVTDEMON on 17 February 2010 - 09:38 PM
Well what are you refering to by bolt-ons?
How much of a horse power gain from racing cams?
And what I really want to put in a manual tranny but I haven't really got a team to do it with.
Variable cam gears
All of the parts you can put on a manual too,wait until you find one then swap them out.
Racing cams do you no good unless you have atleast an air intake and headers\exhaust.With all the mods listed 25+
Posted by SVTDEMON on 17 February 2010 - 07:42 PM
God just wants you to have stazzi mesh. Little piece of advice. Don't sweat the small stuff. Everything in life is small stuff.
pretty sure due to how many clips are holding it in....... it was there one night and then not there the next morning when i got to work, i got my friends keepin an eye out for anyone who newly got an svt or an svt bumper around my parents house cause i know lots of ppl are missing that screen and i know how hard they are to come by.
Posted by SVTDEMON on 07 February 2010 - 11:18 AM
1 Stay away from Accel. I have Taylor thundervolts on a stock coilpack my screaming demon(Mustang V6) was fried. Obviously Platinum plugs. There is alot of upgrades out there from Nology Grounded ignition and MSD coilpacks. The sky is the limit.
Well its that time of year again to think of upgrades. This year I'm going to intall my Zex wet kit among other things.
2000 SVTC 3l out of a 05 Sable 5K on the clock. SVT cams and intake ported and a K&N cone. It now has another 3k miles on it with no problems but a rough idle at times.
In the next 2 months the car will be dyno tuned but I want to have the ignition, fuel system in top condition.
My questions are:
1. What ignition upgrades are there? I want to replace the plugs, wires and coils. What brands are there? What has everyone had luck with?
2. I have the original pump now with no signs of failure should I upgrade it?What type of fuel pumps are there.
3. Anything else any one can think of upgrading before the tune?
I'm all ears!
2 Only replace the fuel pump with FORD,TRE pumps off ebay are Fing garbage. If you ever go super or Turbo charger I believe you can score a Walbro. There are CEGrs putting in Focus SVT pumps but I am not sure if thats necessary.
3 Everything LOL
Stop driving the car until it is tuned.To avoid
Posted by BrApple on 01 August 2006 - 07:02 AM
second don't just dump R-134A into the system, it just doesn't work like that.
if the air was cold and now it is warm and not cooling you have a leak, and with you overfilling the system by alot, air + coolant you might have damage something, time to go to a shop
you can service the ac yourself but you need a gage set, and a vacuum pump and you can do this if the system is already open as it is illegal to discharge R-134A to my knowledge
there is a good chance that the dry/accumulator has rusted out and needs to be replaced. wha you can do yourself is get a R-134a can with u/v die and find your leak.
the low side pressure is normally between 25 and 35 psi at 70 degrees, at 85/90 degrees it is going to be up around 45 to 55 psi, at this time the high side pressure should be around 175 to 225 psi ...
if you are filling the system and the low pressure side is reading the right pressure but the high side doesn't reach the right pressure you have a leak ....
also the compressor has a certain amount of on and off time depending on the tempurature, this relates to the pressure readings, needless to say there is a spec for this and you need to know it to fill the system correctly.
and if you need to know I just did this myself with pretty good sucsess, I replaced the dryer and vacuumed down the system and recharged my system and a friends, both AC are nice and cold now .... well they are alittle weak when it is very hot but they work....
note the 95 shop manual says not to fill the system from the small cans, they don't have the pressure to fill the system with a gas charge, you can liquid charge but you run the risk of slugging the compressor and that it bad
also you need to check the pressure before filling because you a/c clutch air gap might be to large and this will prevent the compressor then engaging, this is also spotted if your ac works when it is cooler out but stops after some driving or increased temp ....
your system is low if the system fast cycles and if it doesn't kick on the system is either empty or way over charged ...