http://www.fordcontour.org/index.php?autocom=blog Community Blog List Syndication Fri, 05 Sep 2008 02:39:05 -0400 Forums@fordcontour.org (FordContour.Org) IP.Blog 60

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And the engine went back in this morning.



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MSDS headers, sprayed with black ceramic high temp paint, and wrapped. I have not sprayed them with silicone yet.]]> Mon, 01 Sep 2008 19:34:00 -0400 Fri, 29 Aug 2008 06:58:00 -0400
The rear restrictor is from a '98 SVT at the junk yard. It was sagging a bit. The two outer rubber rings were cut out. I re-centered the bolt sleeve, masked the opposite with aluminum foil tape, and poured in about 3/5 of a can of 94A. I've had one like this in my '99 3L for a several years now, and it works great.

The transmission mount on this '97 Sport was hydraulic. The SVT mounts I've seen were rubber. The '97's mount popped and dumped all the fluid. It has been completely disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt.... sorta. First, I cut the steel cap off to check out the inside. There was a valve in the middle which I removed. I thouroughly cleaned the insides. Next I cut the tabs and removed the mount completely from the bracket. I cleaned the bracket and reinstalled the mount. Using duct tape, I masked off the bottom and centered the bolt. I filled it with the remaining 2/5 of 94A. Most of that volume filled the mounts inner cylinder, leaving me a bit short of completely full. I would have preferred to fill it completely with 94A, but didn't want to mix up another can to waste most of it. 1/2 - 3/5 a can would completely fill it. Instead, I filled the remainder with 3M Window-Weld. This will solidify into a soft rubber, prevent water from collecting, and mildly reinforcing the mount. You could say, it's a one of a kind, multi compound Stage 3 mount.... but that would be ricer-ish. If this one fails, I have a spare SVT mount.

Here's a tip on using tape to mask off your mold. I've used regular grey plastic and aluminum foil duct tape and paper painter's masking tape to seal the edges. Both duct tapes work well as long as you remove it before the urethane has completely hardened. Remove in about 30 minutes to 1 hour from pouring. Once hardened, the tape is much more difficult to remove.






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-Dom]]> Tue, 19 Aug 2008 12:36:00 -0400
Right now I'm testing the "Sweeping turns and oil press loss" myth. Call me the myth buster lol. So far I've taken on and off ramps from anywhere from 40-60 mps in 3rd gear (can't really do it 2nd mph limited to 55) and oil pressure stays the same. I even punch it coming out of the turn. I still have the 2.5L heads and SVT oil pan. Yep no "oil pan upgrade" here. As I do have the oil press sensor installed off the main gallery, I can read oil press. accurately. I guess what people don't understand is that :

1: Not much oil goes up to the heads. Only a certain amount of oil is needed for the cams and valvetrain. After all you can take the oil fill cap off while its running and not get a face full of oil right?

2: As Terry Haines has mentioned In His Con rod/bearing thread it has more to do with the rods than anything else.
See I had a rod bearing on its way out. I had the symptoms, flashing oil press light at idle, weak idle, etc. Last year I DROVE it all the way to Ohio to get it repaired and guess what, it still runs as strong as ever.

I guess what most people fail to see is that there is a Huge Oil drain passage at the timing chains that prevents oil from staying in the heads even if there was to be some clogged condition on the oil drains.

Well I'll keep everyone posted on it. I'll be enjoying it! ]]> Mon, 18 Aug 2008 22:38:00 -0400 Sat, 09 Aug 2008 10:50:00 -0400



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I think the yellow will stand out nicely on the green car... and will match the yellow transmission


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