All latest posts on FCO http://www.fordcontour.org/home.html Sat, 19 Jul 2008 20:32:27 -0400 60 http://www.fordcontour.org/run-carfax-t11125.html
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any suggestions are very much appreciated!]]> Fri, 18 Jul 2008 17:37:47 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/P0430with-mil-eliminato-t11123.html http://www.fordcontour.org/Euro-Fiestano-roof-t11122.html

/www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/225195/allnew_fiesta_raises_the_roof.html






http://www.fordcontour.org/post-a2477-fiesta-cabreo.jpg]]> Fri, 18 Jul 2008 08:18:32 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/Euro-Fiestano-roof-t11122.html http://www.fordcontour.org/Shift-Turret-compatibilit-t11121.html
If I had another week it'd be a no brainer to get the keyed turret mod but I'm under a time crunch. At least I didn't send in the incompatible turret and get it keyed. How long is the turn-around time currently and what is the cost for a Focus tower to be modified? I haven't weighed it (since it's still in the car attached to the MTX-75) but I'm sure overnight shipping on 5-10 pounds each way wouldn't be cheap either. Argh!]]> Fri, 18 Jul 2008 02:24:53 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/Shift-Turret-compatibilit-t11121.html http://www.fordcontour.org/resources-UK-t11120.html Thu, 17 Jul 2008 16:37:23 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/resources-UK-t11120.html http://www.fordcontour.org/hot-25-run-t11119.html
Is it normal for the UIM to be hot? I mean so hot that say after a 20min. drive if you pop the hood you don't want to rest you hands on it for more than a few seconds?]]> Thu, 17 Jul 2008 08:58:12 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/hot-25-run-t11119.html http://www.fordcontour.org/Rods-Bearings-t11118.html
For the last few months I've been getting a rattle/knock upon cold start up for about .5-1 seconds (if I shut it off and restart it, it doesn't rattle). About a month or so ago I started to notice that same rattle/knock between 2800-3500, just as I would lift off the throttle to shift, for about the same time duration. I've spent the last few days scouring the past discussions on connecting rods and bearings. I've tried to convince myself that maybe it was something else, but it is definately a lower frequency solid metalic sounding noise- (not a higher frequency cam chain buzz, or tensioner rumble). It really sounds like pre-ignition or "pinging" but has a more metalic rap to it.

Reading the recent posts has been helpful and am trying to get a grasp on this. I'd like to know if my thinking is correct, and I have a couple questions.

If i understand correctly, the knocking noise is caused by the piston 'kissing' the cylinder head. The reason the piston is kissing the cylinder head could be due to two reasons- fatigued/elongated rods, allowing for extended piston travel, or worn rod bearings allowing extended piston travel.

Now, if the rods are fatigued, a spun bearing probably isn't far behind, correct? If a bearing does spin, how long till the engine goes kaboom? I would think relatively quick, 500-1000miles?, but I have no idea.

I read one post that said replacing just the bearings is a waste of $$$, because the problem is the rod. Is it possible though that the rod bearings could wear yet the rod still be within spec? Or that the rod could be fatigued and the bearing not be spun?

3 things I need to check are:
pull the serpentine belt and retest
check the oil pressure (no oil light as of yet)
pull oil pan and check rods/bearings

I guess what I'm getting at is:

My engine runs great and is nice and smooth 95% of the time, mpg has been right where its always been, and I can't say that it is down on power. While shifting, I can either make it knock, or not make it knock depending on how I use the throttle. I've probably put about 1500 miles on it since I started noticing the knock. While I'd like to think something major isn't wrong since the car runs so good, the knocking is so harsh sounding that can't be the case. So if I do have a rod/bearing issue is it just a roll of the dice for how long it holds together, or if it lasts a few 1000 miles it must not be a rod/bearing issue?

What's it cost to rebuild the rods/bearings in the 2.5L- $1000 in parts- rods/bearings/gaskets/crankshaft/head gaskets, maybe a piston or two?

]]> Wed, 16 Jul 2008 23:17:24 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/Rods-Bearings-t11118.html http://www.fordcontour.org/Taurus-track-t11117.html
My '99 Taurus has the 3L Duratec. I've done some tweaks to the brakes, suspension, tuning, chassis, and exhaust. The tires are Kumho ASX all seasons with a tread wear of 420... not the best track tire, but controlling a 4 wheel drift around the entire track is quite fun.

We were at GingerMan Raceway in South Haven, MI. Great place. GingerMan is a short, technical track. Lots of run off room should you over cook a corner.






]]> Wed, 16 Jul 2008 20:19:35 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/Taurus-track-t11117.html http://www.fordcontour.org/m-t-shifter-brake-boots-t11115.html Wed, 16 Jul 2008 11:54:44 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/m-t-shifter-brake-boots-t11115.html http://www.fordcontour.org/Greenville-SC-t11113.html Any one in Greenville, spartanburg, lurans, greer, ect. Tue, 15 Jul 2008 23:52:04 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/Greenville-SC-t11113.html http://www.fordcontour.org/Time-Dyno-Run-Ol-869-t11112.html
I have been putting this off for some time now, and the run has definately identified the long to short runner transition.
When ever this economy decides to straighten up a bit, I'll through a chip and Dyno tune on it to see if I can get things a little more linear.
If I can ever figure out what I need to do to post a video , I have one. (It's Quite large 28.4 MB)
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With the shroud off from the colum i turn the key to click once.
I use a small awl to push the pin down that hold the assembly in.
i slide the whole assembly out.
i take the new one and line up the holes and that pin
i push the assembly into the spot and it clicks in
i turn the key and it starts the engine
i turn off the car and the key wont come out.

Am i doing something wrong here or am i just stupid. 4 times the same thing happening is not bad luck, i just think im doing something wrong.]]> Tue, 15 Jul 2008 07:57:00 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/Sticking-keys-t11110.html http://www.fordcontour.org/rod-bearing-t11109.html
My questions are:

1. What should the bearing look like with this kind of milage?
2. I will plastic gage it tomorrow, does anyone know what that gap should be?
3. From what I described so far, could I have a bad bearing that's causing the knock I hearing?

I should add that the knock is louder under the engine than the top, that's how I come to the conclusion that I might have a bad rod bearing.

NAPA has the bearing in stock, I will also stop by and measure the thickness and compare it to mine.

If I left out anything feel free at ask, it's been a long day!

Thanks for taking the time.


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]]> Sun, 13 Jul 2008 17:29:32 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/Gauge-faces-t11106.html http://www.fordcontour.org/Cams-t11105.html Do you think a custom ground 3.0 Essex V6 cams would fit in 2.5? Sun, 13 Jul 2008 17:25:16 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/Cams-t11105.html http://www.fordcontour.org/Engine-clicking-sound-t11104.html
Happens whether I'm in or out of gear, but it seems to last longer when I'm accelerating in 1st gear, especially at around 2k rpm or below. If I just rev the engine in neutral, it only clicks four or five times before disappearing.

Tried to listen for where it's coming from, but couldn't pinpoint the source. I'd like to say it sounds like it's outside the engine though - maybe one of the belts? Or could it be engine knock?

Any thoughts?

Demid

P.S.: I should mention: though I really only noticed it now, I used to get the same noise whenever I lugged the engine (like letting the clutch fully engage in 1st gear at 1k - 1.5k rpms and trying to accelerate). Those rpms don't seem that low for 1st gear, so I'm frankly not sure if that's lugging, but that's what I figured it was... It didn't used to happen when I revved the engine at idle before.]]> Sun, 13 Jul 2008 16:03:25 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/Engine-clicking-sound-t11104.html http://www.fordcontour.org/96-contour-t11103.html Sat, 12 Jul 2008 21:01:00 -0400 http://www.fordcontour.org/96-contour-t11103.html