...so lets start off this way.
Forget rod and main bearings are in two halves..lets look a a plain round shaft that we want to run in a support plate with a round bearing bush...made of a common bearing material.First off the hole in the non moving part needs to be big enough to allow for the thickness of the bush we decide to use..Depending on the load on the shaft , we want the bush to stay fixed in the support plate and not turn with the shaft. To do this the hole is usually slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing bush we intend to use...and is pressed in.This gives an interference on the bush (nip) so that it will remain fixed...As we press it in the INSIDE diameter of the bush will get a little smaller (crush) but must not be so small to prevent the shaft rotating...all with me so far?
..OK then.Lets switch to a sleeve bearing but in two halves, as in rod and main bearing liners. We STILL need the same features as in a full sleeve bearing...
The nip....If you fit half the bearing in half the rod or main bearing you will notice and feel 1)It has to be 'sprung in 2)It's TOO BIG...the edges cannot be fitted 'flush' at each end of the housing(s)..It MUST feel this way...The liner is slightly bigger/longer than the housing it fits into...think back to 'why' in the plain bearing.
So we have two half bearings that fit snug but are still proud at one end....
When the two halves are bolted together the ends of the bearings TOUCH FIRST before the cap is fully seated..
This is also a 'must have' condition and is the start of the 'crush' phase of assy.
The crush...
As the bearing halves are pulled together with the cap the radial load forcing the liner into the housing goes UP..
This is the same as pressing in the plan bush in a plain housing. This added pressure of the crush IS ALL THAT RETAINS THE LINERS INTO THE CAPS...
...all clear so far before we go to the 'issues' list....??? unsure.gif
...before I get too involved and deep with measurements..Let me state what the 'average' DIY builder who is fitting bearings ,main or rod,does....NOTHING!!! rolleyes.gif
Most all 'assume' that the bearings, new or otherwise are OK...also assume that the 'parent bore'(the housing without liners) is also OK and in spec...Most will not even use Platigauge to check running clearences!!
...so this, to me , is half assed!...Get that out of the way first eh!
Assume NOTHING...at least use plastigauge so you know ONE dimension is in spec!!!
To the question on 'liner proud', no, most FULL sets of engine data don't give this, it's established by measurement of...rod or main housing parent bores without liners fitted, parent bores with liners fitted and liner thickness..All of wich require micrometers, bore gauges etc to establish.A 'GOOD' engine builder will use these AND record mulitple measurements along the way..VERY involved 'IF' you do it 100%.
The liner proud on a 'cracked rod' is almost impossible to measure as you do not have a flat reference face to measure from.
Main can be measured but the proud reading is almost never listed in engine build specs...Next stage.... IF we did it 100% what dimensions would we use to help establish nip and crush ...to be sure the liner will not spin???
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