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98 CSVT DEATH AND REPLACEMENT

Started by Guest_BULLITT_* , Mar 11 2010 12:59 AM

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#1 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:59 AM

OK TO START OUT i have been building a svt contour for a buddy of mine.
body and tranny have 113k miles on it motor is 25k. and everything else has less then 3000 miles on it.

AFTER HE POPED THE STOCK 2.5 it was sent to DOM to have the 3.0 full swap done only downside is he had the car for like 6 months or right around that. BUT WHO CARES.

3.0 motor swap was done.
all new svt suspension replaced everything even right down to the CONTROL ARMS.
H&R lowering springs.
custom air intake,
CUSTOM POS CATBACK FROM SOMEONE.
cut THE POS flowmaster out out welded in a MAGNAFLOW magnapack.
09 FUCUS euro sport rims.

and alot more was going to happen to it this year.

story short. what you will shortly see.

back on the 8th of feb at 2pm near my house. my friend kevin was going to the store to go get his medication for his crohns disease. He was traveling on a main roadway about 45 mph. and a 81 year old driver decided to just pull out right in front of him AND STOP in the middle of the street in front of kevin. and kevin slammed right into him at around 40 mph ...... airbags went off...

POLICE found out 81 year old was drunk and was arrested for OVI. kevin has a broken left knee cutt up hands and wrist, banged up face. back pain and neck pain. luckily is isnt critically hurt. he could of been

SO NOW I HAVE TO rip down his whole contour and were going tomarrow to pick up the new svt contour we purchased to replace his and i have to swap everything from one car to the other. SO LOT OF WORK is going to be done.

AND ALSO ALOT OF SVT CONTOUR STUFF IS GOING TO BE FOR SALE. I WILL BE POSTING UP IN THE FOR SALE ON THE PARTS AND STUFF SO PLEASE PM ME OR CALL ME IF YOUNEED SOMETHING.

NOW ON TO THE PICS.

These are the before accident after i washed buffed, and waxed it this past summer once it was all together.

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Now onto the pics after it got wrecked by drunk driver.

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81 year old dudes lincoln

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.

Edited by BULLITT, 11 March 2010 - 01:01 AM.

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#2 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 01:02 AM

NOW ON TO THE TEAR DOWN.

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some pics after downing a 12 pack.

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AND NOW THIS IS THE 98 WE JUST PICKED UP FROM TOLEDO YESTURDAY TO TRANSFER ALL THE PARTS TO.

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ALOT MORE is to come. A bunch of more mods have been ordered since the motor and shiz is out. So were going to add in
headers,
y pipe,
catpipe,
new catback,
coil packs,
all new motor and tq mounts,
adjustable strut mounts,
and some other stuff. ill post up as it goes along.

Edited by BULLITT, 11 March 2010 - 01:04 AM.

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#3 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 01:06 AM

Ok so now other then doing this and that and a bunch of other crap....... and disassembly of everything the engine is now on the stand.

Didn't do much else since i have another project for a police car. got the motor and tranny droped off for that on friday. so last night i just ripped into that and getting shiz ready for that car by end of month.

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SOME MORE PICS OF TONIGHTS STRIP DOWN.

all this shits for sale also.

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#4 SVTDEMON

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 03:04 PM

BULLITT, on 11 March 2010 - 01:06 AM, said:

Ok so now other then doing this and that and a bunch of other crap....... and disassembly of everything the engine is now on the stand.

Didn't do much else since i have another project for a police car. got the motor and tranny droped off for that on friday. so last night i just ripped into that and getting shiz ready for that car by end of month.

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SOME MORE PICS OF TONIGHTS STRIP DOWN.

all this shits for sale also.

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JeffMKnight needs that rear SVT Bumper. :greedy:

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#5 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 11:39 PM

Figured i would add some more pics to this project.

car got fully stripped and old wrecked car got dragged onto a flatbed last week and hauled out of here.

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and here is some pics of the new ride in my garage yanked the motor out of it cuz its got spun rod and main bearings and a shot oil pump.

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#6 spridget

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 01:06 AM

i believe that's the first time I've seen the engine removed that way.

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#7 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 02:52 AM

spridget, on 16 March 2010 - 01:06 AM, said:

i believe that's the first time I've seen the engine removed that way.

what you mean the wrecked car???? If so its due to how bad the front end was pushed in there was NO WAY it was coming out threw the top. Everything had to be pulled from the underside. easiest way was to drop the whole front cradle with everything attached to it.

if you mean threw the top. Thats the typical way it all comes out.

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#8 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 01:10 AM

So today went and got some sheet metal and tubing so i can make this rear strut tower brace. and also box in the front lower control arms.

half the rear strut tower is welded in place. just have to put my support bars in and it will be done then spray it.

and ill be working on the front control arms tomarrow.

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#9 SDK

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 02:55 PM

BULLITT, on 18 March 2010 - 01:10 AM, said:

So today went and got some sheet metal and tubing so i can make this rear strut tower brace. and also box in the front lower control arms.

half the rear strut tower is welded in place. just have to put my support bars in and it will be done then spray it.

and ill be working on the front control arms tomarrow.

Awesome thread, hopefully all the parting out of the old car will make his new one free if insurance didn't cover it already. Hey if you want to make some money let me know how much you charge for a rear strut tower brace. I've been looking for a good one for seriously like 4 months.

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#10 BuckeyeSVT

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 03:15 PM

spridget, on 16 March 2010 - 01:06 AM, said:

i believe that's the first time I've seen the engine removed that way.

Second you on that one Spridget.

I believe he's talking about the tow strap wrapped twice around the engine and hanging on the hoist.

-Dom

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#11 spridget

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 09:59 PM

I'm talking about this. Trans, CVs, and radiator left in place. I've never seen it done that way. I did not know there was enough room to push the trans off the flywheel.

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#12 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 12:42 AM

spridget, on 20 March 2010 - 09:59 PM, said:

I'm talking about this. Trans, CVs, and radiator left in place. I've never seen it done that way. I did not know there was enough room to push the trans off the flywheel.

ITS NOT THAT DIFFICULT. ive done so much when it comes to cars and trucks etc. that i have found ways of makingstuff happen that people do what you do and go WTF how did you do that or get that out that way. ANSWER IS. bassically i just screw around with cars all the time. that i just look at stuff and then go HMMMMMM how can i do this. and i look think plan. AND BAM i get it done in a way no one would think about doing it lol.

like on a mustang gt from fox body to current. i can tear down the whole rearend in one. (wheels,brakes, axles, diff, etc) rebuild it swap diff, or rebuild them, replace axles bearings and seals, and have it back on the road in under 45 min lol. AS LONG as everything comes apart smooth. longest it took me is 1 hour 25 min cuz some rusty ass bolts.....

but on that contour pic above took me 1.5 hours and motor was out. cuz of all the planning it took for me to figure it out. otherwise now it will prolly take me under an hour...

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Second you on that one Spridget.

I believe he's talking about the tow strap wrapped twice around the engine and hanging on the hoist.

-Dom

And on this I have found out over the years tow straps or rachet strap work best for pulling motors or motor and tranny out as one.
the straps are more forgiving then chains or mounts. plus useing a strap instead is stretchable AND REALLY FLEXIBLE. plus ur CRADLING the full weight of the motor NOT JUST useing 2-4 bolts holding chains at those points on the motor... Seeing as i have seen even grade 8 bolts snap off of blocks and or aluminum heads,or blocks. So useingthe straps you can move everything around more simply. their is no BIND at all.
plus its save cuz i use MIN OF 10,000 lb straps.

plus useing straps their is a less chance of breaking something.

here are some pics of the mustang when i put a new motor and tranny in it at 40,000 MILES drag racing takes its toll on motors. i had over 300 1/4 mile passes on the car and over 50 top speed runs on it. plus the 10 sets of rear tires in 3 years i went threw lol. the motor took a beating...

Posted Image

Edited by BULLITT, 21 March 2010 - 12:49 AM.

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#13 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 01:06 AM

SDK, on 20 March 2010 - 02:55 PM, said:

Awesome thread, hopefully all the parting out of the old car will make his new one free if insurance didn't cover it already. Hey if you want to make some money let me know how much you charge for a rear strut tower brace. I've been looking for a good one for seriously like 4 months.

The insurance did cover the car. We bought it back. then selling all the stuff off it we made WAY more of are money back.

as far as the rear strut tower is concerned its a WELD IN part. i got half of it done. Got a main beam connecting both towers and to small 4 inch SUPPORT bars diaginal, thats been painted already, But when i get more time im going to buy another bar and make a lower bar right uner the support bars and tie it all together with welding. then reaspray it.. ive made them before but most have been welded to TOP of strut towers. NOT SIDES since onthe contour their is no way in hell to get to the tops without cutting out the metal braceing above it to get to it.

also i will postup tomarrow the pics from the boxed in control arms for the front....And i have decided to also make boxzed control arms for the rear and also the sway bar mount points will be boxed in(heard the mounts can snap off pretty easy) so ima fix that also.

And wel;d in subfram connectors im already drawing up to connect the unibody together. i got some ideas and some creativity going on. i always am building stuff. and making stuff. i also have access to a CNC place locally that can make bassically anything i want. and a metal shop to get everything i need to make whatever i need....

so i will post pics up once i upload them and ill post them up.

now ALSO the RSTB is NON adjustable. bassically how its made is 3 parts. top bar. lower bar and support braces. So WHOEVER would want one if you like it would have to get it welded in UNLESS you come to me and i can do it within a hour or 2. THE BAR ITSELF is pressed in between the strut towers. bassically a hammer to tap it all in level it spot weld it. then fully weld it in and paint it.

ill keep everyone updated

MSDS HEADERS
MSDS Y PIPE
FLYWHEEL
CLUTCH
FUEL STUFF

ALL WILL BE IN BY END OF NEXT WEEK.

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#14 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 03:50 PM

OK SO I FORGOT TO GET PICS BEFORE I DID THE REAR STRUT TOWER BRACE BUT WHATEVER this pic will work out just fine.

And i got pics of the control arms before and after.

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#15 spridget

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 05:41 PM

I've never had a reason to pull just the engine or transmission... so I've always pulled both as a unit.

Good work on the RSTB and LCAs. I was curious to see pics because I did not know if your car was equipped with the 4 bolt or 2 bolt LCAs.

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#16 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 06:39 PM

spridget, on 21 March 2010 - 05:41 PM, said:

I've never had a reason to pull just the engine or transmission... so I've always pulled both as a unit.

Good work on the RSTB and LCAs. I was curious to see pics because I did not know if your car was equipped with the 4 bolt or 2 bolt LCAs.

Thanks And yeah all 3 of tyhe 98 ones i worked with all had the 4 bolt design... THE 4 BOLT is way better then the 2 bolt ones. Since the bushings are side to side the control arm has better flex, less resistance.. the 2 bolt ones have the up and down bushings and thats just a crappy design.

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#17 bhiggs89

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 07:36 PM

Was there any trans work done on the previous car? And are you going to use the trans from the new car?

Seems like it would have been a lot easier to just swap the subframes over, instead of installing an engine, and all the suspension pieces.

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#18 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 01:03 AM

bhiggs89, on 21 March 2010 - 07:36 PM, said:

Was there any trans work done on the previous car? And are you going to use the trans from the new car?

Seems like it would have been a lot easier to just swap the subframes over, instead of installing an engine, and all the suspension pieces.

I guess i didnt really explain how bad the damage was to the car.

tranny from original car billy bought . were useing the tranny gfrom the new car.

OLD CAR

driver fram rail pushed in 3 INCHES core support done, fender support on driver side DONE.
pass side framrail CRACKED at firewall. ENGINE CRADLE MANGLED.. old car the power trans and drivetrain survived. drivers cv axle was distroyed also. its in 2 parts.

so my friend it wasnt just a simple swap over.

car had 7500 IN DAMAGE.

Edited by BULLITT, 22 March 2010 - 01:04 AM.

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#19 BuckeyeSVT

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 12:36 PM

BULLITT, on 11 March 2010 - 12:59 AM, said:

AFTER HE POPED THE STOCK 2.5 it was sent to DOM to have the 3.0 full swap done only downside is he had the car for like 6 months or right around that. BUT WHO CARES.

Downside? Really? Hmm, let's see. I needed to order a new engine wiring harness because the original was in shambles and there were ALOT of other issues. Since you didn't own the car at that time and really aren't familiar with the situation I'm asking what your deal is. What is your issue? Perhaps I should call Kevin (the actual owner) and have him explain what those issues were?

I've heard from multiple people you are badmouthing me around here. I'm going to ask once what is your problem is, so you can explain. If you don't explain, than I'll accept that what I've heard about you from others... Trust me, it's not good.

P.S. I was at OHP on Saturday working on a Cougar when you called George asking about the RJL1 PCM.

-Dom

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#20 Guest_BULLITT_*

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 02:45 PM

BuckeyeSVT, on 22 March 2010 - 12:36 PM, said:

Downside? Really? Hmm, let's see. I needed to order a new engine wiring harness because the original was in shambles and there were ALOT of other issues. Since you didn't own the car at that time and really aren't familiar with the situation I'm asking what your deal is. What is your issue? Perhaps I should call Kevin (the actual owner) and have him explain what those issues were?

I've heard from multiple people you are badmouthing me around here. I'm going to ask once what is your problem is, so you can explain. If you don't explain, than I'll accept that what I've heard about you from others... Trust me, it's not good.

P.S. I was at OHP on Saturday working on a Cougar when you called George asking about the RJL1 PCM.

-Dom

YOur point of being with george is??? Nothing just makign sure the computer from the new car is same as computer from the old car. computer codes matched up so i was golden.

Anyways call who you want bro. All i know is i was told BY KEVIN takes 30 days to do the swap you had it for 6 months. he dont like making issues even if shits bullshit. ALSO YO you bought a NEW ENGINE HARNESS FOR HIS CAR HUH. well THEN WHY THEY HELL DOES ONE HARNESS from the computer connector to the DRIVERS SIDE body connector look ORIGINAL.

ALSO DOM if it was brand new I WOULD NOT HAVE FOUND ANY FRAID INSULATION ON ANY OF THE WIRES LIKE I HAVE ON THIS HARNESS ON THIS 3.0 I HAVE FOUND 3 SENSOR CONNECTORS THAT HAVE HARD CORE FRAID INSULATION THAT FROM BENDING THE WIRE YOU CAN CRACK IT AND IT FALLS OFF. THATS NOT NEW THATS OLD. new harnesses dont have any of those issues. they rubber coating on the wires will not CRACK when you bend the wires or move them like THIS HARNESS IS DOING.

so I CALL BULLSHIT ON A NEW HARNESS DOM. i dont care what you know about cars. i been around them since i was 10 years old grew up around it. I KNOW ELECTRICAL and this isnt a new harness on this motor. plus the oil pan gasket/timing cover leaks on this motor EVEN BEFORE I PULLED IT. i remember kevin calling you and asking you about ur warranty and since you had the car so long and he DIDNT EVEN PUT 3000 MILES ON THIS CAR. you told him warranty is over with. retarded son.

AND ANOTHER THING THE PLUGS THAT YOU PUT IN THAT CAR WERE JUNK. i pulled the old plugs out. before george got the car to check the tune on it last year. PLUGS WERE FUCKING SPENT. gaps were all over.010 OFF. electrodes WERE SHOT. AND I THOUGHT YOU PUT NEW PLUGS IN THIS MOTOR????.. PLUGS WERE NEVER CHANGED EITHER.

PLUS THAT EXHUAST YOU SOLD HIM YOU RIPPED HIM OFF IT WAS FUCKING JUNK.

i had to replace the muffler on it CUZ THE FLOWMASTER ON THE CAR BROKE. the baffles broke in it and it was rusted out.
PLUS THE Y PIPE HAS A BIG ASS WHOLE IN. and all of its falling apart. YOU GAVE IT to him with a dented tip. and the tips didnt even line up

AND YOU SAID YOU TOSSED THE OLD EXHAUST AWAY. AND COME TO FIND OUT TALKING TO BILLY ITS ON HIS BUDDYS CARS.

SO ALL IN ALL.
PLUGS WERE NOT NEW.
HARNESS WAS NOT NEW.
OIL PAN AND TIMING COVER LEAKED WITH LESS THEN 3000 MILES ON IT.
and you wouldnt warranty it. SO I HAVE TO FIX IT. among everything else.

SO YOU TELL ME WHAT THE ISSUE IS DOM.. OH AND UR A LIER cought red handed.

and YOU THINK ONLY I TALK shiz dude YOU HAVE NO IDEA THE PEOPLE I MET THAT ARE AROUND YOU talk alot more shiz about you son.

YOU HAVE NO IDEA. cuz thats were i heard alot of shiz from WAS FROM PEOPLE AROUND YOU. SO MANYBE you should stop fucking people over and people wont talk shiz cuz some people who you think are ur friends are not ur friends they do it for the shiz they can get from you. thats about it. I personally will tell anyone to stay clear of you after finding out how much of a RIPOFF, THEIF, LIER you really are.

ITS BAD FOR BUSSINESS ALSO FOR ANYONE WHO CARES THIS GUY DONT GIVE YOU RECEIPTS OF ANY WORK DONE. HE STILL HAS YET TO GIVE KEVIN ANY TYPE OF RECEIPTS FOR ALL THE WORK DONE TO THE VEHICLE.