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#21 goggomobil

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 06:56 PM

I'm working on my daughter's '98 Mystique right now. I lost ground at the driver's master switch, causing all of the windows to stop working. I am reading 1500 ohms from ground (#3 in black connector, black wire) to known good chassis ground. When I jump #3 to a known good chassis ground, all windows work.


What asmoto5 is describing seems like a switch issue to me.

Edited by goggomobil, 12 June 2011 - 07:01 PM.


#22 goggomobil

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:34 PM

My problem turned out to be a broken connector (black wire) in the upper harness connector between the door hinges (where the door wiring passes into the car body). There was no way to fix this outside of getting a new door harness, so I ran a #14 ground bus from the window switch to the door sheet metal and then through the flex tubing in the door hinge area and out to the body sheet metal, close to the connector. Yes, it's a little bit Frankenstein, but all four windows go down together like it never did before.

Now the airbag light is flashing 12. D'oh!

#23 Aussie Ford

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 09:21 AM

View Postgoggomobil, on 13 June 2011 - 08:34 PM, said:

<br />My problem turned out to be a broken connector (black wire) in the upper harness connector between the door hinges (where the door wiring passes into the car body). There was no way to fix this outside of getting a new door harness, so I ran a #14 ground bus from the window switch to the door sheet metal and then through the flex tubing in the door hinge area and out to the body sheet metal, close to the connector. Yes, it's a little bit Frankenstein, but all four windows go down together like it never did before.<br /><br />Now the airbag light is flashing 12. D'oh!<br />
<br /><br /><br />

That connector can be replaced and isn't that hard to do. Get one from a JY then from the back pop out the center retainer. From the front record what wire goes where the positions are numbered. Then lift each finger retainer and remove the contact. Insert in new connector. I have done this many times. Check out my how to on auto down on the passenger window.

AF

#24 rkctdwn

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Posted 03 July 2011 - 11:51 AM

View PostAussie Ford, on 27 April 2011 - 07:23 PM, said:

Can you operate that window from the master switch?

The master switch on the driver's side….. (I see yours is a 98 so early or late 98?) either way, all windows can be controlled which means there is a wire going from that switch to the switch on the passenger's side. There could be an issue with that wire somewhere along the way which is why I suggest check them for continuity.

But why none of this makes sense to me since you changed the door harness is:

Wires at connector:

PIN #1 – WH/VT = SWITCHED POWER TO WINDOW MOTOR

PIN #2 - VT/WH = POWER FROM CENTRAL JUNCTION BOX, FUSE # 21, 40A

PIN #3 – YE/VT = SWITCHED POWER FROM MASTER SWITCH THROUGH PASS SWITCH TO MOTOR

PIN #4 - BK = GROUND

PIN #6 – WH/VT = SWITCHED POWER FROM MASTER SWITCH THROUGH PASS SWITCH TO MOTOR

PIN #7 – YE/VT = SWITCHED POWER TO WINDOW MOTOR



So check the pins with a tester and ensure they do what they are supposed to do. Check for power functions, continuity, and ground at all pins. It is just too simple to be screwed up unless the issue is with the master switch something causing the problem from there because you changed out the stuff in the door. I'd assume that is all correct now and the issue is with what has not been changed. If you can swap out the master switch you may find the answer. IF it is a 98.5 then any 98.5 – 2000 works. IF early 98 then only one from an early 98 will work. Tours & Mystiques are the same.

AF

LOL Dom we came to the same answer you posted while I was writing...... What's that they say about Great Minds... :drunk:
Just to add to the confusion, my back up Mystake the rear pass door window didn't work and turned out bad connection in the thru the door connector. While wiggling the outside part of the connector it would start to work AH HAH and went from there. Turned out the ground pin/connection was corroded. With out the ground it didn't know which way to go. IE while wiggling the connector and operating the switch on the door the window motor start to run both ways up or down. Old military training wiggle a-little bit!:rolleyes: Also know came clear while wondering "CCWW" Oh no the telephony troubleshooting!




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