BuckeyeSVT Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 I've had this trip computer for over a year and really only installed it for looks. However I've had a little more free time lately to really figure out the little things that didn't work correctly and get them mostly ironed out. OK, onto the meter... Pics first of functions: Car Off... Just clock. Car On... Trip Odometer (Left) Car On... Miles To Empty (More about this later...) Car On... Instant MPG (0 because I took this photo in my garage at a standstill engine off). Video below of actual working MPG meter. Car On... Calendar Car On... Avg MPH Car On... Avg MPG Car On... Stopwatch Car On... Outside Temp Ok, the wiring diagram courtesy of Mirez.co.uk Everything connects as it lists, pull the leads from the clock (if existing) or add leads which you can tap in at the radio and also the Instrument cluster to get. I tapped in my MPH and Fuel level from the cluster connector and the power / ground / dimmer and memory feeds from the radio. Now, onto the Fuel Gauge issue. I originally thought the fuel sending unit was wrong - However I wasn't correct. Depending on the software version loaded into the trip computer there is a change in the wiring for the MTE reading. To check the level of software on the module turn the key on and press the left big button until the screen fills up with characters. Then press the button until the right side says REL. What is on the left of that is the software version loaded. My harness came equipped with the #8 wire and not a #7. There are many revisions of software for these trip computers - Mine is 4.0. Any trip computer with software above 3.6 requires a different wiring connection. The original Mirez document is wrong for those models and the wiring connection for the Miles To Empty (Fuel Remaining) is not on pin 8, it's on pin 7. My harness doesn't have a wire for pin 7 so I added it. It works connected to the white/red fuel gauge wire at the cluster. Now, the Instant and Average MPG. In the UK the 2.5L harnesses are prewired from the PCM with the pin 43 wire inserted and running to the dash. Here in the states we do not have pin 43, there isn't a wire and there's a solid mold where it should be. Now, that's not a big issue as I added one to mine - but that's not for the faint of heart. It involves disconnecting the PCM connector and pulling it up to the right strut tower. Once out, it has to be dismantled so you can drill a small hole where the plastic is molded to add the required wire. I did this without much issue, but it't not for the faint of heart or someone who has zero electrical knowledge. I will explain that part in the next part of this writeup which I may do later this week. Otherwise, it works a treat! Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Here's a pic of the wire added, I have many more detailed pics I will post later. And a short video of the Instant MPG working (I was driving up and down small hills - Great for showing the range). IMG_0622.MOV Enjoy till later. -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Ford Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Dom, Is there a version of this I can install in a Mystique dash??? do they have Mystiques in the UK? Great mod btw ! AF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 The later Mystique dashes that have the same clock as a Contour you can. The earlier models UK models had a trip computer that sat in the clock location and a maintenance computer in the cupholder location in the 95-97 models. -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Ford Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 That maintenance computer sounds interesting...... got any info on it? AF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Installing a wire for the Instant and Average MPG readings... First, remove the PCM connector by pulling the power steering reservoir up at a slightly tilted angle (towards the front of the car) and release it. Remove the 10mm bolt securing the PCM grounds and then the 10mm bolt securing the PCM connector into the PCM. Once removed sit the connector on the right strut tower so it's easier to work on. Next using a small screwdriver or a small pick pull the red terminal retainer from the connector. Set this aside for now, it'll go back in later. Remove the black plastic shroud from the top of the PCM connector by using a small screwdriver and pulling the ends up around the tabs. Now locate pin 43. The outside of the PCM connector is labeled with numbers on the ends of the rows. Count back on the second row until you get to 43. Mark this pin with a sharpie for easy identification. Using a small flat blade screwdriver inserted into the center of the outside of the connector unsnap the inside connector from the outside housing. It doesn't take much force, and don't try to force it! Once apart, use something like an allen wrench to seperate the two parts - They cannot be removed from eachother unless you pull the retainer from the center PCM retaining bolt (which you don't need to do). You will have enough room to drill out the hole without needing to remove it completely. Using a 3/32 drill bit, slowly drill the recess where the wire is to be installed. Take your time and do not allow the drill to go down through into the PCM terminal housing (this will damage the water seal and cause other issues down the road!!!!). Blow out any material and then reassemble the connector back together by snapping the terminal housing back onto the outside housing. It will snap and that's all that's needed. Using a new terminal and wire (which will need to be procurred from another PCM harness) push the terminal into the hole and keep pushing until it locks into place underneath. You can turn the connector over to ensure it's fully seated. Once seated, reinsert the red terminal retainer into the housing. Snap the black plastic shroud on top of the PCM connector. Re-route the harness back to the top of the PCM and snug the 10mm center retaining bolt (do not tighten this tight!!!) Only hand SNUG the bolt! Insert the 10mm bolt into the PCM ground and reinstall into the right inner fender. Once tight, reinstall the Power Steering reservoir and that's it. Run a wire across the firewall to the point where you can access the inside (i used the clutch master area as a passthrough) or you can drill a small hole and use a grommet!! Connect to terminal 9 on the trip computer and enjoy. Mine isn't accurate so much as it is amusing. However, it does work... -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 To illustrate the screens you need to verify the software revision here are the pics: Turn key on (with trip computer connected to power and ground). Press the big round left button and hold until the display looks like such: Once there, press the button approx 9 times till you get to a screen that looks like such: Remember!! If you have software version 3.6 or higher, you need to connect the fuel gauge wire to the #7 terminal at the trip computer. Using #8 will screw up your fuel gauge as it adds 2.3v of input power into a primarily resistance reading!!!!! You have been warned! -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3LSVTTOUR Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 I can't wait to wire mine up. Now that Ive been looking through this it doesnt look too difficult. Funny thing is Ive owned 3 of these and I keep selling them because I thought it was hard to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 It's not thqt difficult... Almost like a radio install. -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3LSVTTOUR Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 It's not thqt difficult... Almost like a radio install. -Dom Thanks... Dom When I do my e0 to e1 harness conversions and I need to add a pin to the main harness block I just take a pick tool and push a hole into the blocked pin.. make a circular motion to spread the platic... new pin goes in and on the inside you will see that left over plastic pin... just take a needle nose and pull it out. might be easier than using a drill just thought Id throw it out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 I prefer the clean hole and no chance of damaging the insulator underneath by accidentally stabbing it with a pick and then possibly destroying it by moving the pick around once in there. To each his own however... :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3LSVTTOUR Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 I prefer the clean hole and no chance of damaging the insulator underneath by accidentally stabbing it with a pick and then possibly destroying it by moving the pick around once in there. To each his own however... :) Yea my method sounds prehistoric and destructive but it actually isnt as bad as it sounds... Havent had any complaints in 20+ harness conversions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teozuzu20 Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I have this problem.. i've wired the mph to empty to white-red wire from the dash.. but when i start the car it only shows to me - - - why ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akafireball Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Hi guys this sounds like a really neat mod.... I want one ....where can I get one ? anybody know a good sourse preferably in the US they are on ebay for like aprox $50 plus shipping from uk....cheaper would be better ... I will be puting it in my early model 98 #854 cvst not sure what sofware version I need ? Ebay versions are software 4.0 or 3.0 also do I need to buy a temp sender for outside temp ?where do I get that?...outside temp would be really cool feature! this should be way cheaper than adding a gm rear view w/temp mirror too! http://www.ebay.com/itm/200707465934?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/150743287655?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 I bought mine from the UK Ebay site. I used an outside temp sensor from a 99-02 Cougar. It works perfect and is the correct sensor for the application. I recommend the 4.0+ version software as it has more compatibility to our cars than the earlier version. -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoonDocksBuilder Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I just purchased a trip computer from ebayUK. I do not have a clock in my 2000 Ford Contour SE 2.5L. Do I have the clock wiring harness in the dash or will I need to build my own harness? What path do I need to take? BDB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 If you dont have a clock, you will need to buy the harness. -Dom Posted on my iPhone on the go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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