spridget, on 25 August 2011 - 03:45 PM, said:
Sounds peppy! 4500-6500 really picked up without any low rpm TQ loss. Nice work.
A 3L with SVT cams finally finds its nuts at 6500-7500. It takes so much longer to get there with less TQ. Why is it impossible to convince others that SVT cams are slower on the street?
That's the point I have been trying to make for years. SVT cams are nice cams, provided you put them in the engine they were designed for. Putting SVT cams in a full 3.0L is not the way to go faster. (At the risk of sounding condesending)... Using SVT camshafts are only important to the "kids" who want the highest peak HP numbers. They either don't understand how Torque works, or really don't care (YES CEG'ers, I'm looking at you). Perhaps with a little tutorial on how Torque affects your whole powerband, maybe some people would take notice that even though you have a small 200RPM peak of max HP (for bragging rights??).. You can't replace the lost torque by going with those cams. Most Full Oval port 3.0L's have a Torque to HP difference of about 6-12 ft lbs of Torque. Most Split to Oval port and Hybrids have a 15-25 ft/lb torque to HP difference. That's quite a difference and a telling comparison between the two engines.
Rikenbomb, on 25 August 2011 - 04:14 PM, said:
Yes it has! And to think where you see the hp curve dip is where there is more room for improvements such as using a larger TB or getting head/valve work done.
I'll agree with you on the SVT cams. In my setup you're not going to get much more than 200tq on it. Honestly I want more torque than that. I'd like to get another 10 ft-lbs or torque on my setup.
The other issue is the SVT Intake. Unless you have your SVT/2.5L Intake Max Extrude Honed, you are guaranteed to be missing 10-20 hp (and probably the same amount of torque [depending on intake]) on your build.
Your engine is something that honestly alot of people couldn't compare to. You have P&P heads, 3L valves, 3L LIM, Max Extrude Honed UIM... Yeah. Alot, and it costs money to get into the 220+ HP range. It's not found by stock parts and mixing and matching stuff from one motor to the other.
[RANT] This is where I get a good laugh, you look around and see people waste tons of money on XCal2/XCal3, Big MAF's and TB's.... And they get absolutely nothing in return. Nothing... Not a red cent. And then the "enthusiast DIY tuners" with their XCal's... Yeah. You are going to spend $250-$500 just for the unit... And never spend any quality dyno time with a wideband tuning it. BIG MISTAKE!!!!!!!!!!!! Wanna see your engine go bye-bye quickly? Tune it shitty, you'll find out what it means to be a part of the "I BLEW MY 3L CLUB". It's an exclusive club for people who can't tune or beat the ever living shit out of a poorly built engine. Either way, money lost. If I could've harnessed all the lost capital all these people have sunk into failed attempts at building a 3L... We would have a Full 500HP+ AWD Contour. Believe it, I imagine between all the blown up attempts out there it probably totals around $10K+ or so. And mail order tunes? ...lol.
Open wallet. Take all money out and set on ground. Set money on fire. Watch money burn and get the enjoyment that no time, personal injury or good 3.0L engines were harmed in your futile attempt at a half ass job. Sorry, my take from the trenches... Don't hate the mechanic, hate the stupid "Companies" selling the crap that doesn't work!
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