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3.0l swap need help


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#1 98redsvtturbo

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 08:56 PM

hey guys first off I have a 98 contour svt early model just got done with my 3l swap drove it ten miles to the exhaust shop it was running real rough so I just assumed it was bc i havent got my tune yet. after i picked my car back up i noticed the check engine light so i drove it to my local advanced turned out my codes were the camshaft positioning sensor and tps. assuming it was my shitty wiring i went home checked all the tps wiring found a bad spot and replaced all of it. also replaced all camshaft wiring. plugged everything back up she fired right up and cut right back off lol now she wont start i have no spark im getting fuel i believe since when i checked my plugs they were drinched, Also my securety light inside my car goes crazy when i turn my key on blinking very fast its never done that before, but it turns over just no start. also does anyone know where that PATS fuse is loacted in my fuse box i believe that might be whats causing my security light to do that any help or advice is really appreciated. thanks alot

-Billy

#2 98redsvtturbo

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 12:54 AM

okay im ALMOST 99% positive its the PATS system causing the no start problem, I'm going to replace all fuses that have to deal with the eec bc that seems to have to deal with the pats system, here are the fuses i will replace. ignition + eec fuse #4 20A yellow, ignition #10 20A light blue, eec ignition module memory #11 3A violet, eec module #R11 brown, also my high and low fan speed relays because i had an issue with that before the 3L swap high speed #R2 black, and low speed #R5 dark green. if all else fails ill just call the lock smith and program a new key.

#3 BuckeyeSVT

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 10:39 AM

You have a wiring issue. Probably crank sensor since you repaired the other two. I hate to sound like a broken record over and over.. But ANY harness deterioration requires the whole harness to be removed and inspected for other bare/ cracked insulation on wires.

Lesson 1. Wiring on older SVT's goes to shit. That's inevitable and happens to all of them. It's worse when the engine is swapped and the wires are stressed as that causes the brittle insulation to crumble and wires to short.

-Dom

#4 rac74

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 11:19 AM

This sounds like the same issue I had, crank sensor. I pulled the sheathing back and the insulation on each wire came off just by running my hand over it. Just replace every thing from connector to connector or you will have issues again. It's a special shielded cable also from what I recall...

#5 Terry Haines

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 12:43 PM

I think we have been here before...about a thousand times!!
Rule of thumb...most ALL Contour harnesses go to crap...If one part/connection/plug wire looks bad then the chances are other issues will come along. I think I have posted this 'history' of the harness issue many times Re where they were made,what causes it etc etc...and don't think it's just the 95>97 that had the issue...Both Dom and myself have had major problems with customers cars and conversions in the past..This is the #1 reason that I no longer do 3.0 conversions..Customers will not accept any issues found with the harness ..even when you warn them up front!!!

#6 98redsvtturbo

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 04:09 PM

yeah i understand the wiring harness is shiz ive already re-ran all my crank and cam wiring from connector to connector that is how i got the car running in the first place, thats why i now believe it is actually a PATS issue with the light blinking rapidly when key is in the on position. seem plausible guys? im just looking for some more thought/ideas but keep it coming i really appreciate all the help.

#7 BuckeyeSVT

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 08:11 PM

PATS light flashing fast means the PCM can't read the code from the key. Are you using Aftermarket Keys or do you have multiple transponder keys on one ring? Some RFID badges and other transponder devices can interfere as well. I would try your spare key (If you don't have one, well.. It's time for a locksmith with programming equipment or the dealer).

-Dom

#8 98redsvtturbo

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 08:20 PM

Yeah I only have one key, so sounds like it's time for a new one. I called around today cheapest I found was 150 bucks. Also what is a RFID badge?

#9 BuckeyeSVT

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 08:45 PM

Radio Frequency Identification Badge... Certain workplaces use them as a key to gain access through certain doors and floors of office buildings.

-Dom

#10 98redsvtturbo

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 10:30 PM

nope none of those on my key ring just my keyless entry, and a las vegas poker chip lol but im gonna try the eec relay tomorow if not that then calling the locksmith. kinda blows i threw all this cash in my 3l swap then after the first drive my key is what causes my car not to start lol

#11 98redsvtturbo

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Posted 28 September 2011 - 05:22 PM

hey guys just and update a locksmith came over today made a new key for my car and then programmed it, the pats light is still doing the same thing flashing. he got a code on his computer when he hooked it up "no comm ecc>pats" neither me nor him had any idea what this code means. but paid 20 bucks for a new key that "might" be programmed! haha

#12 mrspindlelegs

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Posted 28 September 2011 - 07:55 PM

View Post98redsvtturbo, on 28 September 2011 - 05:22 PM, said:

hey guys just and update a locksmith came over today made a new key for my car and then programmed it, the pats light is still doing the same thing flashing. he got a code on his computer when he hooked it up "no comm ecc>pats" neither me nor him had any idea what this code means. but paid 20 bucks for a new key that "might" be programmed! haha

Well, that sounds like there is no communication going on between the PATS system and the engine control module to me. I looked through my Ford Service CD for 1999 model year cars and when you get into this kind of problem, the majority of the possible faults according to the pinpoint test flow chart are open circuits in the harness. A bad PATS module or engine control module is also a possibility. I just don't know if my manual is accurate enough to troubleshoot a 1998 SVT since there were some significant wiring changes between E0 and E1 platforms.

#13 98redsvtturbo

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Posted 28 September 2011 - 10:29 PM

by open circuits you mean frayed wiring? an yeah ive got the same cd and looked it up earlier for the 99 but isnt the pats for the 98 internal instead of external? i think that was a major change they made. but thanks for the help if anyone has anymore ideas please shoot them my way. my plan so far is to go through and check as much wiring as i can while motor is in the car. if that makes no change then i guess next is replacing the pats module itself.

#14 98redsvtturbo

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Posted 28 September 2011 - 10:33 PM

also guys when i replaced my cam and crank sensors i ran the shielded cable probably half way down the wires not the full length could that cause this problem, and when i fixed the tps my irmc has alot of wires that are bare its not being used since i swapped to 3L but I assume I should fix those as that could lead to a short also correct?

#15 spridget

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Posted 01 October 2011 - 05:01 AM

Yes, any bare wire can lead to a short, which in turn may damage the PCM.

#16 BuckeyeSVT

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Posted 01 October 2011 - 09:57 PM

I'll refer again to Post #3... If your wiring is shit.. It won't start..lol. Short enough things out and the PCM goes "poof".

-Dom

#17 98redsvtturbo

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Posted 02 October 2011 - 08:23 PM

Soo by fixing the damaged wiring still may not cause the car to start. But as I assume first fix all damaged wiring if that dosent fix the pats problem then get a new PCM? And where should I get a new PCM at? (cheapest) thanks for all the help again guys.

#18 BuckeyeSVT

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Posted 02 October 2011 - 10:53 PM

http:\\www.car-part.com ...

That's where I go.

-Dom

#19 98redsvtturbo

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 06:13 PM

had one more thought guys, when i first had the car running it was running really rough, like shaking the dash the interior etc. maybe all the shaking could have damaged something in my pats module? or made something disconnect possibly? just a thought let me know what you think.

#20 rac74

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 06:42 PM

Did you also check to make sure the three main connectors on the rear cam cover have actually seated together? There should be an audible 'click'.




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