Posted 14 December 2011 - 10:11 AM
Posted 14 December 2011 - 10:26 AM
If after checking that the fuses are ok, then you should check the wires and conections.
You should remember that our cars have issues with the harnesess.
Edited by Comano, 14 December 2011 - 10:27 AM.
Posted 15 December 2011 - 10:42 PM
I agree one item at a time fuses first. Then start checking GROUNDS, connectors, relays, etc. There could be an issue caused by a water leak too.
Edited by Aussie Ford, 15 December 2011 - 10:45 PM.
Posted 16 December 2011 - 01:23 AM
Posted 16 December 2011 - 09:46 PM
well i have been checking all the fuses for the last 2 days and the battery connection and i pulled up the fuses and relays on mitchel1 and it didn't give me much info on grounds wires and as far as relays how would one check them and do they have a tendency to just go bad by chance Wait a minute and take a breath will ya.... I'd say that some of the first tools you need as a Contour owner is a Haynes Manual and a Ford CD. I think the Haynes does have electrical schematics in it. There are ways to test relays using test lights and voltage but let's leave them to the last. and all my fuses are good the dash lighting works and the cigarette lighter works and there is no air bag light on That sounds good so far air bag lights on always make me nervious, but you dont have one great! but my horn doesn't work Ah something to do.... there is a thing called a clock spring that transfers the electrical through the steering to the components does your cruise control work. That also goes through the clock spring, but for now I'll assume that is working ok. Before I'd mess with that part the horn relay is under the hood in the engine compartment fuse box and there is a fuse there for it also. However I'd check the horn itself first. I've had a couple of bad ones, and given their location the connectors can be an issue too. Pull the connector and using a test light have someone honk the horn. IF all is ok to that point then it is the horn. If no light then start looking at the relay, wiring, and fuse. Some have two horns one on each side. If you get a light replace the horn. Remember there is only one wire to the horn since the bolt that holds it in place acts as the ground for it. Besure you have a good ground contact when doing the test. and my interior lights don't work another item to deal with. This can be due to bad grounding and or bad bulbs. You can't believe how many time people go through hours of looking just to find a burned out bulb. So check them first. then look to the grounds which are in part the switch pins at each door. They can and do go bad. Also there can be trouble with the switch at the overhead lights. Remove the lights and disconnect them then using a tester see if you have power there. If you do not then work back. Those items that are controlled by the door switches also go through the central timer module which is on the reverse side of the under dash fuse box. That could be an issue if all else checks our. You can check for both ground and power at that connector and see if it works with the door switches too. Do you have lighted visor mirrors? assuming you do are they working? They can be their own internal problem if they are not, but you can remove the visor and check for power at the connector. You only need to check one as they are on the same wiring. If you have power then it is most likely a bulb. ALWAYS CHECK THE BULB FIRST! and the radio doesn't work Using a Ford radio removal tool insert it into the two holes on each side of the radio and pull it straight out. The removal tool can be made from a stiff coat hanger wire too. Then disconnect the three connectors (speakers, power, antenna) Disregard the speaker connector but check for power in the other connector using a test light. If there is power then the issue is the radio, if not then there is a wiring or fuse issue. IF you have not owned this car from day one then you do not know what has happened to the dash wiring and it can be butchered in so many ways. One of the worst is having an alarm installed. Those installers really know how to butcher a wiring harness. Does your car have the PATS system? (little blinking red light on the dash) Do you have a clock? (if not why not?) so if you can explain in detail step by step were to begin looking OK so what do you want to know?... answer that after you have done the above things. for ground wires and harnesses or post a link of a picture of were it maybe located inside the vehicle or under the hood of my 98 contour se 2.5L 24 valve much appreciated please and thanks I need help am not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to electrical on a vehicle I kinda hate to say this because you are a newbe but do a search on here and I'd bet you can find the wiring diagrams. If not email me.
Your issues are not as big of a challenge as you might at first think. BTW the air and the air bag have absolutely nothing in common. The air I presume you mean the HVAC fan has a resistor down under the glove box that can be bad, the fan motor under there can be bad, the switch and or the connector on the dash can be bad. One needs to start somewhere with all that and I'd say pull the fan motor out it just has a push lock and twists into place. Takes 3 min to pull. Jumper 12v to it and see if it runs. If it does then check for power at the connector you just removed to get the fan out and work back from there.
Edited by Aussie Ford, 16 December 2011 - 09:54 PM.
Posted 17 December 2011 - 06:43 PM
Posted 17 December 2011 - 09:48 PM
Posted 17 December 2011 - 10:25 PM
Posted 18 December 2011 - 11:32 AM
P.S. I merged your other new thread with this because you are not going to get any further answers by posting multiple times. Please refrain from posting multiple times for the same question.
Posted 19 December 2011 - 09:23 AM
This is a really big and important item to determin before wasting anymore time on your vehicle. For further information search this site under wiring harnesses TSB.
Posted 19 December 2011 - 12:53 PM
Posted 19 December 2011 - 02:12 PM
To me right now it sounds like a PATS issue. Do you have a flashing light next to the clock when the key is turned on (Or Contour Plate) in the center of the dash? If so, it's definately electrical and could be bad wiring, blown PCM 20A fuse in the BFB and also a bad key.
Posted 20 December 2011 - 10:23 AM
Posted 20 December 2011 - 12:06 PM
Posted 20 December 2011 - 04:59 PM
car will not start when i turn the key i only hear the fuel pump kick on and all the warning lights kick on to let me know they work i checked my battery with my multimeter for voltage and i got a reading of 11.65 then me and my buddy jumped the car still did not start nor kick over as if the battery was dead and then i thought could it be the starter solenoid relay idk cuz i honestly have never had one go bad on me so with that being said name the fuses or relays i should look at first i need there locations on the car and what they are called oh and leading up to the car not starting 3 days ago it started up and ran fine then 2 days after that it snowed got cold so i went out to start it up it started and i let it idle in park for 2min then it stalled out so i started it back up again and it did the same thing then i waited to the next day when my buddy who knows electronics and car take a look he started it up then manually revved the engine no higher then 2500 rpms and then the car idle a little rough for 2 sec's and then it seemed as though the battery or car was losing electricity and then stalled out now the car wont kick over only the fuel pump kicks on but the car doesn't click as if the starter is bad but all they other things work no fuses are bad do you have any idea why the car shut off and were should i start looking and what is a ground on a car ....???? sorry for the previous confusion plz help or if u have the haynes ford manual torrent then send it
Posted 20 December 2011 - 09:26 PM
The header states 98... Or am I missing something?
LOL no your correct it is just my old eyes...... I was looking at:
- Vehicle owned:
1996 contour GL DOHC 2.0 4C
Posted 20 December 2011 - 10:06 PM
I just had a couple of thoughts..... Dom if the fuel pump runs up when the key is turned then does that mean PATS is ok?
It could be the Neutral / Start switch..... it is an ATX. When you put the key in and your foot on the brake do you hear a very slight click down in the area of the console? Can you move the selector? (just thinking here but try to start it in the neutral position)
And there could be an issue with the wiring at the terminal as Terry was saying. The dying part is bothering me..... that could be from low voltage and that could be an issue from the alt too. That little exciter wire could be off or something. Then there is the mega fuse..... could that be part of the problem? Gents I'm just thinking out loud....
Posted 21 December 2011 - 05:59 AM