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98 contour se v6 2.5 DOHC has electrical issues

electrical issues wont start

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#1 juzjay1

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 10:11 AM

interior lights don't work over the dash on the roof of the car, the air doesn't work but the air bag light isn't on and the radio doesn't come on either as if i have no electricity but the dash lights work for the gauges and face of the heat and air please help me i cant figure it out

#2 Comano

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 10:26 AM

Ok, one thing at a time, for electrical problems, first check the fuses, I can't remember if the airbag has one but the rest have their own.

If after checking that the fuses are ok, then you should check the wires and conections.

You should remember that our cars have issues with the harnesess.

Edited by Comano, 14 December 2011 - 10:27 AM.


#3 Aussie Ford

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Posted 15 December 2011 - 10:42 PM

Just a reminder the wiring issues are generally not with the dash wiring, just the four engine harnesses. That is not to say there isn't an issue. Usually caused when someone cuts a bunch of stuff adding aftermarket items.

I agree one item at a time fuses first. Then start checking GROUNDS, connectors, relays, etc. There could be an issue caused by a water leak too.

Just thinking.

AF

Edited by Aussie Ford, 15 December 2011 - 10:45 PM.


#4 juzjay1

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 01:23 AM

well i have been checking all the fuses for the last 2 days and the battery connection and i pulled up the fuses and relays on mitchel1 and it didn't give me much info on grounds wires and as far as relays how would one check them and do they have a tendency to just go bad by chance and all my fuses are good the dash lighting works and the cigarette lighter works and there is no air bag light on but my horn doesn't work and my interior lights don't work and the radio doesn't work so if you can explain in detail step by step were to begin looking for ground wires and harnesses or post a link of a picture of were it maybe located inside the vehicle or under the hood of my 98 contour se 2.5L 24 valve much appreciated please and thanks I need help am not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to electrical on a vehicle

#5 Aussie Ford

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 09:46 PM

well i have been checking all the fuses for the last 2 days and the battery connection and i pulled up the fuses and relays on mitchel1 and it didn't give me much info on grounds wires and as far as relays how would one check them and do they have a tendency to just go bad by chance Wait a minute and take a breath will ya.... I'd say that some of the first tools you need as a Contour owner is a Haynes Manual and a Ford CD. I think the Haynes does have electrical schematics in it. There are ways to test relays using test lights and voltage but let's leave them to the last. and all my fuses are good the dash lighting works and the cigarette lighter works and there is no air bag light on That sounds good so far air bag lights on always make me nervious, but you dont have one great! but my horn doesn't work Ah something to do.... there is a thing called a clock spring that transfers the electrical through the steering to the components does your cruise control work. That also goes through the clock spring, but for now I'll assume that is working ok. Before I'd mess with that part the horn relay is under the hood in the engine compartment fuse box and there is a fuse there for it also. However I'd check the horn itself first. I've had a couple of bad ones, and given their location the connectors can be an issue too. Pull the connector and using a test light have someone honk the horn. IF all is ok to that point then it is the horn. If no light then start looking at the relay, wiring, and fuse. Some have two horns one on each side. If you get a light replace the horn. Remember there is only one wire to the horn since the bolt that holds it in place acts as the ground for it. Besure you have a good ground contact when doing the test. and my interior lights don't work another item to deal with. This can be due to bad grounding and or bad bulbs. You can't believe how many time people go through hours of looking just to find a burned out bulb. So check them first. then look to the grounds which are in part the switch pins at each door. They can and do go bad. Also there can be trouble with the switch at the overhead lights. Remove the lights and disconnect them then using a tester see if you have power there. If you do not then work back. Those items that are controlled by the door switches also go through the central timer module which is on the reverse side of the under dash fuse box. That could be an issue if all else checks our. You can check for both ground and power at that connector and see if it works with the door switches too. Do you have lighted visor mirrors? assuming you do are they working? They can be their own internal problem if they are not, but you can remove the visor and check for power at the connector. You only need to check one as they are on the same wiring. If you have power then it is most likely a bulb. ALWAYS CHECK THE BULB FIRST! and the radio doesn't work Using a Ford radio removal tool insert it into the two holes on each side of the radio and pull it straight out. The removal tool can be made from a stiff coat hanger wire too. Then disconnect the three connectors (speakers, power, antenna) Disregard the speaker connector but check for power in the other connector using a test light. If there is power then the issue is the radio, if not then there is a wiring or fuse issue. IF you have not owned this car from day one then you do not know what has happened to the dash wiring and it can be butchered in so many ways. One of the worst is having an alarm installed. Those installers really know how to butcher a wiring harness. Does your car have the PATS system? (little blinking red light on the dash) Do you have a clock? (if not why not?) so if you can explain in detail step by step were to begin looking OK so what do you want to know?... answer that after you have done the above things. B) for ground wires and harnesses or post a link of a picture of were it maybe located inside the vehicle or under the hood of my 98 contour se 2.5L 24 valve much appreciated please and thanks I need help am not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to electrical on a vehicle I kinda hate to say this because you are a newbe but do a search on here and I'd bet you can find the wiring diagrams. If not email me.


Your issues are not as big of a challenge as you might at first think. BTW the air and the air bag have absolutely nothing in common. The air I presume you mean the HVAC fan has a resistor down under the glove box that can be bad, the fan motor under there can be bad, the switch and or the connector on the dash can be bad. One needs to start somewhere with all that and I'd say pull the fan motor out it just has a push lock and twists into place. Takes 3 min to pull. Jumper 12v to it and see if it runs. If it does then check for power at the connector you just removed to get the fan out and work back from there.

Regards,
AF

Edited by Aussie Ford, 16 December 2011 - 09:54 PM.


#6 juzjay1

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 06:43 PM

no wait lets back up i don't have the hayne's manual anymore nor do i need it right now but anyway the issue i am having is the horn doesn't work nor the interior dome lighting and the radio and car stalls out after 2min of idle in park while running if revved and then wont turn back on completely but does turn over now the battery is new but seems as if the car has a dead battery after it stalls out and before i purchased the vehicle the previous owner changed the starter and am not sure if it was done properly and am 99% sure the starter connection to the battery isn't properly connected and what i think is happening is once the car starts up the faulty starter install is some how draining power from battery and other components to the vehicle which maybe the things that don't work like the interior dome lighting and radio and horn and car stalling out could that be a valid theory or reason and if so how would i go about fixing that and what should i prepare to buy and if not then what do you think it might be and keep in mind that the weather was nicer when i purchased the vehicle a week ago i haven't drove it other then the test drive but every night i come home from school and start it up and let it run til it warms up and it worked fine until today it got really cold out and was snowing which in turn it started the stalling out issue which is new please help what should i do

#7 juzjay1

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 09:48 PM

ok now the car wont start at all as if the battery is dead

#8 juzjay1

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 10:25 PM

my car won't start but battery and starter is new alternator is fine and car acts as if battery is dead were would the wiring harnesses be located under the hood of my vehicle or do you know any web sites that would show me pictures so i know were to look please someone help me

#9 BuckeyeSVT

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 11:32 AM

Terminal ends on the battery? Check for power at the terminal ends and make sure the ground to the body is good. You will need a test light to go any further, if you don't have the equipment or don't fully understand electrical circuitry I would advise having someone help you.

-Dom

P.S. I merged your other new thread with this because you are not going to get any further answers by posting multiple times. Please refrain from posting multiple times for the same question.

#10 juzjay1

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Posted 18 December 2011 - 11:55 AM

ok sorry and thanks

#11 Aussie Ford

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 09:23 AM

Before you do anything else since your car is a pre 98 you need to check for the wiring harness issue. Look at the wiring to the fan. The connector should be on top in the front center of the fan shroud. Is the insulation on the wires at that connector cracked?

This is a really big and important item to determin before wasting anymore time on your vehicle. For further information search this site under wiring harnesses TSB.

AF

#12 juzjay1

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 12:53 PM

starter is new the battery is new and the alternator is fairly new the fuses are good and i checked the battery with multimeter and the battery by its self held a charge of 11.65 and we tryed jumping battery still would not start when cranked you hear the fuel pump kick but no clicking noise as if the starter doesnt work i think the starter ignition relay doesn't work but idk and if its not that what eles could the problem be and 3 days prior to the car not starting it fired right up and while in park after about 2 mins of idle car stalled out twice but kinda like and electrical stall out as if the battery was failing or power was being lost then i had to wait 10mins to fire it up again then it did the same thing and the 3rd time it wouldn't fire back up idk all i do know is it's not mechanical its electrical just were and what happened someone plz help cuz i need my car

#13 BuckeyeSVT

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 02:12 PM

Didn't I already warn you about the double posting? You already have one thread going - Creating multiple threads is not going to help and is frowned upon.

To me right now it sounds like a PATS issue. Do you have a flashing light next to the clock when the key is turned on (Or Contour Plate) in the center of the dash? If so, it's definately electrical and could be bad wiring, blown PCM 20A fuse in the BFB and also a bad key.

-Dom

#14 Aussie Ford

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:43 PM

Dom, it's a 96 did they have PATS?

#15 BuckeyeSVT

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 10:23 AM

The header states 98... Or am I missing something?

-Dom

(null)

#16 Terry Haines

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 12:06 PM

..I'd check the heavy red(+) power leads from the battery to the fuse box..they are prone to insulation falling off etc and bad connections..Sounds like you have a total power feed failure...

#17 juzjay1

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 04:59 PM

look dammit i am new to this site and dont fully under stand the post rules and am sorry for double post and what not but i am not an a electrician either i fix mechanical issues so the issues i am having with my 98 ford contour se 2.5l v6 are electrical and i do need help as far as a detailed explanation on were to look first. but before that let me explain whats wrong again then we can go from there ok
car will not start when i turn the key i only hear the fuel pump kick on and all the warning lights kick on to let me know they work i checked my battery with my multimeter for voltage and i got a reading of 11.65 then me and my buddy jumped the car still did not start nor kick over as if the battery was dead and then i thought could it be the starter solenoid relay idk cuz i honestly have never had one go bad on me so with that being said name the fuses or relays i should look at first i need there locations on the car and what they are called oh and leading up to the car not starting 3 days ago it started up and ran fine then 2 days after that it snowed got cold so i went out to start it up it started and i let it idle in park for 2min then it stalled out so i started it back up again and it did the same thing then i waited to the next day when my buddy who knows electronics and car take a look he started it up then manually revved the engine no higher then 2500 rpms and then the car idle a little rough for 2 sec's and then it seemed as though the battery or car was losing electricity and then stalled out now the car wont kick over only the fuel pump kicks on but the car doesn't click as if the starter is bad but all they other things work no fuses are bad do you have any idea why the car shut off and were should i start looking and what is a ground on a car ....???? sorry for the previous confusion plz help or if u have the haynes ford manual torrent then send it

#18 Aussie Ford

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 09:26 PM

The header states 98... Or am I missing something?

-Dom

(null)


LOL no your correct it is just my old eyes...... I was looking at:
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I guess he's got more than one........ :doh:

#19 Aussie Ford

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 10:06 PM

juzjay1 - You should really think a bit be for speaking, everyone here is trying to figure out your problem and with really poor discriptions since your knowledge of the issue is limited. Remember your limitations are not our problem, being new here is not our problem, we do understand flustration at not getting instant resolve but one must have a bit of paitence when dealing with people. There is no finer knowledge about these vehicles anywhere than the combination of Terry Haynes, and Dom. Don't be rude.

I just had a couple of thoughts..... Dom if the fuel pump runs up when the key is turned then does that mean PATS is ok?

It could be the Neutral / Start switch..... it is an ATX. When you put the key in and your foot on the brake do you hear a very slight click down in the area of the console? Can you move the selector? (just thinking here but try to start it in the neutral position)

And there could be an issue with the wiring at the terminal as Terry was saying. The dying part is bothering me..... that could be from low voltage and that could be an issue from the alt too. That little exciter wire could be off or something. Then there is the mega fuse..... could that be part of the problem? Gents I'm just thinking out loud....

AF

#20 juzjay1

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 05:59 AM

not trying to be rude at all like i said i apologize for the double post and my tone of voice in the last post i appreciate the help and need it because i have never encountered such an issue and i apologize for the confusion on which vehicle i am having the issue with i sold my 96 contour GL DOHC 2.0L 3months ago and moved up to the duratech 2.5L v6 98 contour se and it won't start in neutral either tryed that but when my foot is on the brake while trying to start i hear the clicking noise from the brake light switch but i dont hear the clicking from the relay its self where the fuse box is in they engine bay and what is the (pats) or (atx) and where is the mega fuse located and which fuse is it and and where is they exciter wire located and if i do have an issue were its they alternator how would i check that b4 just buying a new alternator and i honestly don't know what would cause it to stall out like it did electrically i am as it stalled out it was as if the battery was dying i mean during that 3rd time when i fired it up had it running while i was sitting in the car my buddy just revved they engine manually about 2,3 times and shortly after he let off they injector the car idled rough then stalled out and all the dash warning lights came on but the low fuel light came on first right b4 they other lights did but my gas gauge reads 3 quarters of a tank full now even if i was almost completely out of gas the car would at least kick the starter making a clicking noise right....???? because since then when key is in they ignition and you try to start it now only fuel pump clicks there are no additional starter clicking noises that a starter makes when the car is trying to fire up