It's been over 90 degrees F here in Oregon for the last month and a half. The air conditioning doesn't work in my '96 GL and the FL door window is messed up. It will come down, but I have to go through a lot of hoops to get it back up and I live in fear that it will finally get stuck in the down position. I've isolated the problem to the One-touch Window Down module which resides in the front left door (and yes, I've checked the switch, plugs and wiring.) I've looked but have been unable to find an exact replacement for the module, so my intention is to bypass it and make the window work like the rest of the passenger windows in the car. At least the window will come down so that I can get some air on me.
The only problem will be that I'll need to disassemble the door, and that will require removing the watershield. Many people say to just get rid of it, but doing that is really not a good idea since doing so can lead to water damage to the car's interior. Knowing that in all likelihood I will be unable to easily re-attach the watershield, I looked into what I can use as an adhesive. Here is what I found (quoted from various online discussions):
- I used the grey sealer stuff from the RV shop. Comes in a roll and is about 3/4 inch wide strips. I knife trimmed them narrower to make strips. Panel covers can peel right off. I also used this around my heater box exit tot he evaporator (A/C Car). They use this stuff on RV's to seal panels together, especially on roofs. Doesn't leak and is sticky but removable.
- I used 3M two sided tape to hold mine in. Can be had at any hardware store.
- The 3M strip caulk is very similar to the factory stuff that was installed originally. Its just 40+ years old now and dried. I have used the 3M for years. If the water shields are left out the back side of the panels get wet and swell up.
- I have some double sided 3M emblem tape, that may be the ticket. Years ago I tried the strip caulk and it was a melluva hess to clean it when I removed the panels later.
- Clear silicone and 3M cloth duck tape is what I used.
- I use buytl tape stretched out to an 1/8" thick.
- I believe strip caulk is also known as rope caulk. Thats what I would also recommend.
- I made heavy plastic shields and used aluminum duct tape - real metal with adhesive back - and sealed the door real well before putting on the new door panels. It helps to keep noise down as well.
- Thoroughly clean the plastic and the contact area on the door, using denatured alcohol (Wal-Mart, Hardware Store, Etcetera). Then peel the butyl "ribbon or rope" from its backing and apply it around the perimeter. Finish by pressing the plastic into place. The butyl remains soft and sticky and usually allows for removal and reattachment of the water barrier, just as you wish. Auto glass companies replace lots of door glass and keep rolls of this material on hand.
- I found some buytl sealer at NAPA. This sealer in particular is for rear windows, but the material is the same.
- Rope caulk is what I got from NAPA for miscellaneous body seals and can be used for attaching the plastic to the door. Its non hardening caulk in long strips.
- Came from Shuck's (O'Reilly now) and is in a flat box in a roll and it is black and feels like window putty. Has slick paper rolled between the 15' long tootsie roll: http://www.handsonto...it_p_14700.html
This 3M stuff does come in a tube: http://www.automotiv...09_p_10022.html
3M Strip-Calk Part number 051135-08578 (~$26) has been mentioned as being good, but others said it dries out eventually. Butyl tape is much less expensive and is supposed to work better.
Does anybody have any recommendations for what to use as a water shield adhesive?
Thanks in advance.
Edited by JCorliss, 11 August 2017 - 04:59 AM.