[Terry Haines]

This is a subject that pops up from time to time.I've noticed that most owners don't fully understand the workings of the system.So here for all is the info:-
The cables that operate the park brake are self adjusting ,but not in one but TWO areas.The rear pads or shoes are self adjusted to keep correct clearence from the rotor or drum.The second 'self adjust'Re cables,is the part that most don't understand.The biggest issue seems to come when the rear cables that go to each side need to be changed.This is a common fault on the disc rears as the cables get water inside and sieze up.The problem seems to come when trying to connect the new rear cables to the single cable & balance beam that runs from the lever...not enough slack in the short cable to connect the rears up....This is where the auto adjust function needs to be understood.(Please look at the pics)The handbrake lever has TWO ratchets and pawls,one is the one you feel 'click' when you pull up the brake,the other is the self adjust,on the pics the red is auto adjust,the green is the normal click ratchet.Before you attempt to remove or fit rear cables the short cable from the lever needs a lot of slack...To relieve the auto adjuster you will need a buddy under the car...The lever must be fully down in the off position,the red pawl must be lifted away from the ratchet...at the same time under the car the short cable and balance beam is pulled rearward.Once pulled back as long as it will go, release the pawl and the short cable will stay the the long 'unadjusted' position..DO NOT PULL THE HANDBRAKE LEVER...as this will re-adjust and take up the slack.With the slack at the balance beam it's easy to unhook the two cables etc and fit the new ones.once the new cables are in place and locked in the elongated holes in the beam...pull up on the handbrake....the self adjust at the red ratchet will operate and take up any slack in all 3 cables....easy eh!!!

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One final point...If you continue to use the park brake with siezed rear cables two things can happen as you haul on the brake lever 1)You can damage the short cable from the lever 2)You can also damage the self adjust on the lever...Worse case this could result in a new lever assy.If you have issue with the rear cables DON'T haul on the lever like The Hulk...fix the rear cables before you cause more damage...

[rkneeshaw]

Those pics and explanation help a TON, thank you!

[Terry Haines]

......best Contour site around is here!!!! ;)

[posthuman63t]

Terry Haines, on Sep 22 2006, 05:50 AM, said:

......best Contour site around is here!!!! ;)

Terry -

Currently I'm having issues with my Ebrake. (actually haven't had it operational in over a year) Anyways, my problem was the short line that is connected to the lever assembly broke. So I bought a used one and put it on yesterday. I adjusted the little ratchet assembly and released the slack (with lever down) and hooked up the bracket to the rear cables. I released the self-adjuster (because unlke your post above, I wasn't replacing the rear cables) and when I tried to pull up on the ebrake lever, it would not come up. The cables were tight and there was no give.

So would this leave you to believe my rear cables have failed, and need replacing? Any information is appreciated!

[Terry Haines]

...root cause the short cable broke?? This usually happens when both rear cables are siezed.I'd suggest you get a new pair of rears.With the lever & short cable off it should be possible to pull the rear cables to check if they are siezed.I'd do this asap before you damage the front cable and lever again...

[posthuman63t]

Terry Haines, on Sep 27 2006, 03:28 PM, said:

...root cause the short cable broke?? This usually happens when both rear cables are siezed.I'd suggest you get a new pair of rears.With the lever & short cable off it should be possible to pull the rear cables to check if they are siezed.I'd do this asap before you damage the front cable and lever again...

Yea, I haven't tried to yank up on the lever, I don't want to have to buy another...I guess I'll hit up BJ for some cables. Thanks for the help Terry.

[giganto]

:angry: I am beginning my own parking brake replacement exercise this evening. The car had been parked in a field for the last two years, and the rear cables are rusted and won't release. One thing that the shop manual and Haynes manual say is to remove the shift knob with both hands before pulling up the center console. As our cars become older, the rubbery bits--like shift knobs--become less flexible and cracked. I pulled mine up, and the inner rubber tabs broke apart in two of four places. It wouldn't be so bad if I had in fact NEEDED to remove the knob!

NOTE: Everyone with a Haynes manual or paper shop manual, cross out the knob removal step. Just pry up the gearshift boot and wiggle the console around it.

P. S. Anyone know where I can get a new knob? Are they universal? Just venting a little. Our knobs are getting old and cracked. As a PM measure, if your knob is showing cracks on the outside, there are cracks on the inside too. It's better to replace it on your terms rather than in traffic! It may also be time to replace them before Ford obsoletes this part number like so many others. The short, front cable, for instance, is unobtainable from O'Reiley's and Autozone. I hope mine is okay.

[giganto]

giganto, on Aug 17 2008, 08:37 PM, said:

The short, front cable, for instance, is unobtainable from O'Reiley's and Autozone. I hope mine is okay.

It turns out my front cable is okay, and my handle is too; however, O'Reiley's gave me rear brake cables that were three inches too short! Unfortunately, I had to find this out the hard way, and take them back out. :angry: They found the right ones (with the two rubber scuff-preventers) for my '95 SE by looking at the '97 models. Not only are they $34 each, they couldn't get them for three days! Instead, I got Bill Jenkins to send a pair as a $75 kit with all of the weather protection that was provided as part of the big recall. He also said he has seen too many bad aftermarket brake cables to bother with them. I guess today I'll work on restoring my headlights.

[Terry Haines]

...be sure on the Ford cable kit,that it has the extra pull off springs that go the the arms of the caliper.If the real Ford kit it should also have full instructions..

[giganto]

Terry Haines, on Aug 21 2008, 12:02 PM, said:

...be sure on the Ford cable kit,that it has the extra pull off springs that go the the arms of the caliper.If the real Ford kit it should also have full instructions..

"Extra springs" as in spares or "extra springs" as in more than one on each cable? Bill said these were genuine OEM Ford cables with the weatherproof cap that resulted from the recall. He said he needed four sets when he lived in snowy Massachusetts before the "good" ones came out.

[Terry Haines]

...extra springs as in 'never used on original '95 cars when built but needed now'...extra..

[giganto]

Terry Haines, on Aug 22 2008, 04:08 AM, said:

...extra springs as in 'never used on original '95 cars when built but needed now'...extra..

My shipment from Bill Jenkins arrived, and the answer is there are now two springs on each cable. Typically, there were no instructions included in the kit (I.S. 7203, if someone has it, please attach to a reply). There are two "extra" springs labeled "1 034 548" and "1 034 547." The one that attaches to the left brake arm is "1 034 548." You pull it on upside down around the arm and insert the long part of the spring in the caliper's "armpit." Use a long screwdriver and pry the short spring around the arm until it looks like the TSB.

In lieu of the actual installation instructions, Bill was kind enough to e-mail me the TSB 98-5A-17, attached below.
 985a17.pdf (117.22K)
Number of downloads: 18
After that, the installation went much easier than with the too-short cables. Test drive went fine, (except for the hiccups from the wiring issue) and the path is clear to begin de-engining the "Voltour." There's also a post and a picture from contour.org showing the parts as installed.