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  1. Viewing Profile: Terry Haines

Terry Haines

Member Since 27 Nov 2002
Offline Last Active Today, 01:28 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: VSS on 1998 SVT contour

06 February 2012 - 12:30 PM

...under the car...where passenger side jack/link shaft enters the trans...just above where that shaft goes in..Black sensor,unscrew from trans,24 mm wrench for hex on base of sensor..

In Topic: MTX75 shaft ??

06 February 2012 - 09:05 AM

...both of those look like early output shafts.The later type will have a groove dead center between the two gears,this is wher the two shrunk on gears meet.FWIW the best V6 trans for a final draive ratio change is the Cougar from 2001> 2002..Most all of these have the late type shaft and can support an FDR swap to 4.06,3.8 and 3.5. If built with the early(keyed) ally tower they make the best choice for a V6.Sounds like you have a number of towers that need the 'mod' with our key etc..!!!

In Topic: Test drive looking to buy my first cvst

03 February 2012 - 12:03 PM

For the trans check..*Engages all gears when stopped and engine running but cold..no stiff engagement of 1st or reverse*No 'kickback' felt thru steering wheel on turns..*No crunching on higer rev upshifts*No leaks from driveshafts into trans or from bottom of bell housing...Thats a rough guide on the trans..I'm sure others will chime in here...

In Topic: 7th alternator in 2 years

02 February 2012 - 07:57 AM

..this is my take/experience.
The original Ford unit/Motorcraft units are of very good quality. The most common fault after about 100,000 miles is worn brushes or a failed diode pack/regulator. Bearings and windings are not prone to failure. Why buy a 'parts store' unit,usually built with non oem/sub standard parts when you can reman the unit yourself. Unless the windings have burnt out there is no need.Even bearings can be replaced by a good auto electrical shop. On most all major /high miles builds I have done I always strip the alt,check bearings,brushes etc and just replace those suspect parts with genuine OEM units...Save the money on sub standard assy and reman the genuine Ford unit yourself...it's not hard.

In Topic: Parking brake cables need replaced

31 January 2012 - 10:45 AM

..and a tip from the old man!!.When you get the new correct cables(WITH a rubber boot at the caliper end!),slide back the boot and grease the uinner cable with some Sil-Glyde,slid it back and retain both ends with small zip ties.The object is to prevent any water entering the inner/outer cable...water kills these cables very fast..

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