JCorliss

Since I wrote that message, I got a CEL. I also got a P0304. The car runs fine around town, stutters at high speed when accelerating or when under load (eg. going up a steep hill in fourth gear.) I checked my plugs, other than the gap being too big slightly, they were textbook good color. That eliminates plugs, wires and coil. In my opinion, I probably sucked something into the #4 injector and it's partially blocking the fuel flow at the injector's screen. *Sigh* Time for yet more wrenching.

First, thanks for replying! I forgot to mention that my car's CEL isn't lit. It misses only at around 55-65 mph. I can put my foot in it and kick it into passing gear, and it does fine. I'm going to try disconnecting the battery, leaving it off overnight, then reconnecting it. That probably won't accomplish anything, but it will rule out the ECM module. I have a new fuel filter, will try that. All of this comes right on the heels of my putting in a new air filter. I got amazing mileage (34 mpg!) for one tankful, then the next tank was when the problem started and the mileage went down to 21 mpg.

I know this is an old topic, but my 96 Contour GL with a 2.0 Zetec is doing just what the OP describes his as doing. Wish the OP had mentioned which engine his car has. If it actually is going to take replacing all the stuff he mentions in his last post (19 March 2013 - 06:59 PM) then I'd rather get a new car. I just want something that runs and doesn't continually break down or have problems like this one.

Just talked to a friend of mine who owns a very popular glass shop. I asked him what he uses for water shields and he said: "3M Super 77 Multi-purpose adhesive from Industrial finishes (a local store). Butyl sealers always break down eventually." He said the Super 77 stuff costs about $20 a tube. He also offered to allow me to use some of his.

By the way, here's an excellent diagram of what I'm talking about in this discussion. Adding this picture is WAY too complex a process, so I hope this works.

Noted! And thanks very much for replying! As for getting at that One Touch Down Relay, the shop manual diagram shows the water shield only being detached enough to get at the module. A new shield can be obtained from a wrecking yard or simply made from 4 mil black visqueen. I'd personally prefer to stick with the stock shield, so your repair was a good idea. I would *not* however, use clear visqueen. It has a tendency to turn brittle and break into pieces over time.

Thanks very much for replying, but unfortunately either you forgot to include the link or it somehow got removed.

Sorry, that second link, the one for the 3m stuff in a tube (http://www.automotivetoolsonline.com/3M8609-3M-Window-Weld-Super-Fast-Urethane-3M-08609_p_10022.html) is now dead.

It's been over 90 degrees F here in Oregon for the last month and a half. The air conditioning doesn't work in my '96 GL and the FL door window is messed up. It will come down, but I have to go through a lot of hoops to get it back up and I live in fear that it will finally get stuck in the down position. I've isolated the problem to the One-touch Window Down module which resides in the front left door (and yes, I've checked the switch, plugs and wiring.) I've looked but have been unable to find an exact replacement for the module, so my intention is to bypass it and make the window work like the rest of the passenger windows in the car. At least the window will come down so that I can get some air on me. The only problem will be that I'll need to disassemble the door, and that will require removing the watershield. Many people say to just get rid of it, but doing that is really not a good idea since doing so can lead to water damage to the car's interior. Knowing that in all likelihood I will be unable to easily re-attach the watershield, I looked into what I can use as an adhesive. Here is what I found (quoted from various online discussions): I used the grey sealer stuff from the RV shop. Comes in a roll and is about 3/4 inch wide strips. I knife trimmed them narrower to make strips. Panel covers can peel right off. I also used this around my heater box exit tot he evaporator (A/C Car). They use this stuff on RV's to seal panels together, especially on roofs. Doesn't leak and is sticky but removable. I used 3M two sided tape to hold mine in. Can be had at any hardware store. The 3M strip caulk is very similar to the factory stuff that was installed originally. Its just 40+ years old now and dried. I have used the 3M for years. If the water shields are left out the back side of the panels get wet and swell up. I have some double sided 3M emblem tape, that may be the ticket. Years ago I tried the strip caulk and it was a melluva hess to clean it when I removed the panels later. Clear silicone and 3M cloth duck tape is what I used. I use buytl tape stretched out to an 1/8" thick. I believe strip caulk is also known as rope caulk. Thats what I would also recommend. I made heavy plastic shields and used aluminum duct tape - real metal with adhesive back - and sealed the door real well before putting on the new door panels. It helps to keep noise down as well. Thoroughly clean the plastic and the contact area on the door, using denatured alcohol (Wal-Mart, Hardware Store, Etcetera). Then peel the butyl "ribbon or rope" from its backing and apply it around the perimeter. Finish by pressing the plastic into place. The butyl remains soft and sticky and usually allows for removal and reattachment of the water barrier, just as you wish. Auto glass companies replace lots of door glass and keep rolls of this material on hand. I found some buytl sealer at NAPA. This sealer in particular is for rear windows, but the material is the same. Rope caulk is what I got from NAPA for miscellaneous body seals and can be used for attaching the plastic to the door. Its non hardening caulk in long strips. Came from Shuck's (O'Reilly now) and is in a flat box in a roll and it is black and feels like window putty. Has slick paper rolled between the 15' long tootsie roll: http://www.handsontools.com/3M-08611-Window-Weld-Round-Ribbon-Sealer-516-in-x-15-ft-Kit_p_14700.html This 3M stuff does come in a tube: http://www.automotivetoolsonline.com/3M8609-3M-Window-Weld-Super-Fast-Urethane-3M-08609_p_10022.html 3M Strip-Calk Part number 051135-08578 (~$26) has been mentioned as being good, but others said it dries out eventually. Butyl tape is much less expensive and is supposed to work better. Does anybody have any recommendations for what to use as a water shield adhesive? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the links! I'll check them both out. Right now though, I'm pretty sure the problem is the One Touch Window Down Module. I've never liked that window coming down all by itself and now I'm going to bypass that module. After that, the window will work like the rest of them and be more reliable too, I'm sure.

Thanks for that tip. I'll get myself some and give it a try. Will be a while though, because I don't have anyplace to work on the thing.

A few days ago, I was on my way to a very important appointment in a nearby town. I'd waited a month for this appointment, and if I missed it there could not be another. It was 40 degrees outside. As I was warming up the car, I accidentally touched the FL window button and down it came. As usual, it wouldn't go back up. I anticipated the unpleasant prospect of having to drive 20 miles with that window down in 40 degrees as well as having to leave the car parked with that window down in a very unsafe location. I freaked out. After about five minutes of messing with the switch (I have the trim removed and the cluster hanging there) and the wires going into it, I finally managed to get the window back up. I don't have a garage where I can work on the thing or even a driveway. I can't get the car onto my yard even. I will NEVER buy another car with power windows. EVER.

I did this as you recommended, but it made no difference. Thanks anyway.

Well, I bought a new regulator and motor, also a used button cluster. I put in the used button cluster and the symptoms remain. However, when I unplug it and then plug it back in, I can usually get the window to come back up. I'm beginning to think it might be the "One Touch Window Down Module", or at least the plug going to it. I'm convinced that buying the new regulator and motor were a waste of money.