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rkctdwn

Member Since 13 Jul 2004
Offline Last Active Jan 11 2012 05:10 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: NVH vibration canceler ?

13 August 2011 - 05:40 PM

View Postrkctdwn, on 03 August 2011 - 06:10 PM, said:

Ah yes Terry it be much better if I had pictures instead my words,that I loose my train thought no matter how many times I proof read, I still manage to confuse!!! Ah yes the flex-pipe the woven mesh that reminds of huge cylindrical mesh type ground strap! It ok! Oh I guess you didn't understand my prose the system is factory original except for the rubber hangers! Amazing after 14 years in Ohio winters, good ole Rust'Oleum zinc coating. Primer and a zinc rich top coating both act like a sacrificial anode or is that cathode? Does matter it's not the answer the salt eats it off before winter is over. Not sure if Por-15 makes a coating exhaust or not? See that's up to $100+ gallon now?
Yeah this weight hangs on single bolt bracket below the right side emergency brake cable bracket. In the center tunnel area with the exhaust pipe. As I said before I was thinking only ATX tranny cars used this NVH weight,
Drove car again this afternoon and the intensity of the thunk is reduced without the weight???? Had to believe the age,corrosion and metal fatigue could have changed enough BUT????? That's why I was curious what all the weight was designed to correct?
I know why you never understand me the right-off,I haven't the foggiest the east London dialect!EH? As you can tell I don't even know the proper terminology,I've term before by Hams in the area discussing AH my ole forgetter!
Anyone else out there ran into noise/thunking from the exhaust system? As I said before it's not hitting metal just seems to movement within the rubber hangers travel. I never thought this could produce this type of noise. These are "Walkers" brand hangers. Have to check with dealer to see if the original are still available, frustrating can't believe this would be so sensitive.

In Topic: NVH vibration canceler ?

03 August 2011 - 06:10 PM

View PostTerry Haines, on 03 August 2011 - 12:19 PM, said:

..cast iron weight?..OK some NVH dampers were fitted but which one do you mean? BTY the Y pipe to main exhaust must not be solid.If you have the 2 bolt type with a seal and springs it is designed to move with engine roll and not use the exhaust as a roll restrictor etc..
Ah yes Terry it be much better if I had pictures instead my words,that I loose my train thought no matter how many times I proof read, I still manage to confuse!!! Ah yes the flex-pipe the woven mesh that reminds of huge cylindrical mesh type ground strap! It ok! Oh I guess you didn't understand my prose the system is factory original except for the rubber hangers! Amazing after 14 years in Ohio winters, good ole Rust'Oleum zinc coating. Primer and a zinc rich top coating both act like a sacrificial anode or is that cathode? Does matter it's not the answer the salt eats it off before winter is over. Not sure if Por-15 makes a coating exhaust or not? See that's up to $100+ gallon now?
Yeah this weight hangs on single bolt bracket below the right side emergency brake cable bracket. In the center tunnel area with the exhaust pipe. As I said before I was thinking only ATX tranny cars used this NVH weight,
Drove car again this afternoon and the intensity of the thunk is reduced without the weight???? Had to believe the age,corrosion and metal fatigue could have changed enough BUT????? That's why I was curious what all the weight was designed to correct?
I know why you never understand me the right-off,I haven't the foggiest the east London dialect!EH? As you can tell I don't even know the proper terminology,I've term before by Hams in the area discussing AH my ole forgetter!

In Topic: NVH vibration canceler ?

03 August 2011 - 10:09 AM

View PostTerry Haines, on 03 August 2011 - 07:10 AM, said:

..one of the rubber hangers should be red,it is a softer Si material...What type of connection do you have to the Y pipe?..Sounds like it got worse since the exhaust work?..
Ah yes the red hanger up front close the the cat, I did replace it, I thought that was silicone for the heat? My Y-pipe is bone stock factory and appears to be tight.
Terry the noise I can actually feel in drivers seat sometimes, that what has be puzzled one would think some sort of wear mark would be seen. Oh the cast iron weight what was that trying to cancel? Sorrrry for trying to stress the memory, I know how that is! If that was not in your area engineering I surely understand. Amazing how many different areas/engineering groups are involved. since I'm a detail type of tech what the engineer was trying to achieve has always peaked my interest!
Back in the early years of the CEG web site when there were Ford engineers and Vieston guys on the site that detailed stuff was out there until ole what his CEO at the time put a stop to that,at least thats how I remembered?
Thanks so much for taking to time Terry!

In Topic: passanger window

03 July 2011 - 11:51 AM

View PostAussie Ford, on 27 April 2011 - 07:23 PM, said:

Can you operate that window from the master switch?

The master switch on the driver's side….. (I see yours is a 98 so early or late 98?) either way, all windows can be controlled which means there is a wire going from that switch to the switch on the passenger's side. There could be an issue with that wire somewhere along the way which is why I suggest check them for continuity.

But why none of this makes sense to me since you changed the door harness is:

Wires at connector:

PIN #1 – WH/VT = SWITCHED POWER TO WINDOW MOTOR

PIN #2 - VT/WH = POWER FROM CENTRAL JUNCTION BOX, FUSE # 21, 40A

PIN #3 – YE/VT = SWITCHED POWER FROM MASTER SWITCH THROUGH PASS SWITCH TO MOTOR

PIN #4 - BK = GROUND

PIN #6 – WH/VT = SWITCHED POWER FROM MASTER SWITCH THROUGH PASS SWITCH TO MOTOR

PIN #7 – YE/VT = SWITCHED POWER TO WINDOW MOTOR



So check the pins with a tester and ensure they do what they are supposed to do. Check for power functions, continuity, and ground at all pins. It is just too simple to be screwed up unless the issue is with the master switch something causing the problem from there because you changed out the stuff in the door. I'd assume that is all correct now and the issue is with what has not been changed. If you can swap out the master switch you may find the answer. IF it is a 98.5 then any 98.5 – 2000 works. IF early 98 then only one from an early 98 will work. Tours & Mystiques are the same.

AF

LOL Dom we came to the same answer you posted while I was writing...... What's that they say about Great Minds... :drunk:
Just to add to the confusion, my back up Mystake the rear pass door window didn't work and turned out bad connection in the thru the door connector. While wiggling the outside part of the connector it would start to work AH HAH and went from there. Turned out the ground pin/connection was corroded. With out the ground it didn't know which way to go. IE while wiggling the connector and operating the switch on the door the window motor start to run both ways up or down. Old military training wiggle a-little bit!:rolleyes: Also know came clear while wondering "CCWW" Oh no the telephony troubleshooting!

In Topic: Recontenting the lighted headlight switch stem

28 June 2011 - 03:06 PM

[quote name='Aussie Ford' timestamp='1309017201' post='83547']
[size="3"]Recontenting the lighted headlight switch stem: post 2 of 2[/size]
Ya know it's to bad we live so far apart,I luv your ambitious mods! Must be from the Brown-water Navy training or that yellow water in Nam!!!! Ah a thought-your body thrived Agent-orange:rolleyes: