Aussie Ford

As I've said I'd be glad to help you with your 3L project.......

AF

Thanks for the comments,
I have to admit that when Shortyman unplugged the driver side parking/turn light and the engine died we were both surprised. But consider this, if you have a #8 wire as a ground at the grounding point it may come from a junction where you have a collection of other smaller grounds joining together. They in turn go to various points. In wiring a ground is a ground and remember this is not a stock harness, I have made some improvements. I may have grabbed a ground for a circuit that was part of a lighting circuit and tapped to some other circuit. Under normal conditions with good contact the grounds work fine (path of least resistance), but with a poor connection power seeks to ground via any available pathway. That said when the light was removed whatever critical item kept the engine running lost it's point of grounding. Might have happened with a burned out bulb also at that point. Wouldn't that have been a puzzler..... LOL

It was good that I did not run it much when it was acting up as that could have caused a melt down in the harness due to the overheating of the wiring. When you try to put the power from a #8, through a #16 there is built up resistance and that equals heat. I didn't find any other crispy insulation but there could be some burried in the harness someplace behind the dash. I may get another harness and mod it just in case. One thing I did was to add features by adding wires to connectors in the correct locations. So in the example of fog lights if I got a harness from a car that had them stock it would just be plug n play even though mine didn't have them originally. Sometimes a little extra work pays off.

AF

Ferret, regarding power seats. Basically they are all the same but there were options, which you stated. Your LS should rise straight up but there could be an issue with the switch. Not doing that would not be a motor issue if you can raise the front and rear separately. The motors are the same for all years, and you could get a full power seat from a JY and just install it in your 95 as long as it came from a 95-97. while the motors (& connectors) are all the same there was some slight changes to the base as the floor pan changed a bit. The changes are 95-97, 98, 99-2k and has to do with the mountings. All of them have the same bolt pattern but if you were to install a 98 in a 95 the seat would sit crooked. I look for the seats I want and usually don't care about the color b/c I just change covers. BTW even the seat pans are different how the cushions fit. Covers are all the same, and while the seat bases are different I think the backs are all the same.

All SVT's are premium sound.

AF

If I recall correctly that car is running on a 95 obd1 computer. At least when Mosh did the first swap it was, and he didn't do a tune on it.

AF

Ferret II, on 21 May 2012 - 09:54 PM, said:

Keys are different. The SVT has the PATS with the chip in the key. Your better off going to a good locksmith and getting a key made or even a stealership. You can buy the banks and have them cut someplace else.

IAC - if it says it is compatible ok but early 98's had some strange connectors and I'd check that at the jy before getting one.

Mirrors are completely different 95 - 97, & 98 - 2k. You can change the whole thing but not parts. If you change the whole mirror you will loose the heat feature.

Power seat motors are all the same, always get the newest ones you can find. There are a couple of different switches you need one similar to what you have. That has to do with function features. Trunk actuators are generally the same.

Speakers are all compatiable, but radios need to be standard or Premium due to the plug in for the amp. CD or tape feature doesn't matter.

Many things that fit a 96 work all the way to 2k for the 2.5 with some exceptions due to connector changes. There are a few items that are SVT only like throttle position switch, and injectors. Many items on a 95 are only 95 (obd1)

Regards,
AF