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Ray2

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About Ray2

  • Birthday 07/11/1954

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  • Location
    Carol Stream, IL

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  • Vehicle owned
    99 SVT
  1. I agree. Sometime when I'm not so busy with other things I'm going to drop a pipe and look inside the pre-cats. Car runs great. No performance issues at all.
  2. Yep, I agree BrApple. I was just surprised when I cut electrical tape holding looped harnesses to see more tape and the mils.
  3. Thanks Dom, No headers so I'll go with #1. Someday, when I need to, I'll find out. But not today!
  4. Hello to all. Been busy as hell this year so have'nt been in here much. Good to see the usual Contour heads still around! Here's my just wondering question. After driving through some mid-west flood waters a few weeks ago (right in front of my house) I had to dry out the connectors on both lower O2 sensors. While under the SVT I realized it's got mil elims on both lower sensors. The car came with the Bat y pipe. Does the Bat exhaust cause the need for the eliminators? Or should I assume the pre cats are either shot or blown open?
  5. Not yet. LOP switch just powers the dash light. Battery light will be on until alt starts putting out power.
  6. Well I certainly did'nt intend to steer you the wrong way. I usually keep my nose out of a topic I'm not up to par on. Keep us posted.
  7. I had it on my 96 tour. Not as bad as you, I could fuel at the slowest setting but not any faster or it would trip off. This was the first problem I had with my 96 and before having any manuals I replaced the flexible vent hose down below where the fill/vent tubes are siamesed together. Ran a piece of heavy wire up the solid vent tube. Nothing scarey came out. Real DIY stuff there. That worked for me but there are many others that have had worse problems than just the vent tube. Im sure others will chime in. Seems I read about a TSB on this problem somewhere in here but could'nt find it for ya. Good luck.
  8. Understood Terry. Whew, I was expecting a good lashing from the headmaster! Im going to go have an ale now. Actually it does appear that the cam sensor was moved to the exhaust cam as my 99 shop man. shows it there also. I can understand making it work from either cam. Just kind of curious now as to why move it? Just for easier access?
  9. My humble apologies.....trying to help when I do'nt work on them every day. That was my 96 cyl head pic not a 2000. I did reference 2000 model year OBD System Operation Summary for cam sensor info. Ignition ref pg 33. VCT ref pg 36. 2000_MY_OBD_System_Operation_Summary.pdf
  10. Just happen to have this pic laying around my hard drive. My old 2.0 head minus the goodies. Looking at it just as it would be on the car. Red= where sensors mounted Green= where it senses the cam
  11. Yes they do. In simple terms the PCM compares signals between the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Cam sensor. When the two signals are in range the PCM fires the ignition. Without the cam signal the pcm throws you a code probably P0340. I believe your running on whats called Keep Alive Memory KAM. Thats a basic program that will get you home but forget about any kind of normal performance. The cam sensor is on the backside of the cylinder head, on the drivers side, below the PCV hose on the cam cover. One bolt holding it in place. Easier to get at by removing the airbox on top of the engine. Around 15-20$ in my area.
  12. Well, if you don't know the age of the battery it certainly would'nt hurt in a way to go ahead and change it. Now you've eliminated that as a possible problem. Plus you've got a good battery with the winter season coming up, if weather is an issure wherever you live. Bad ground isn't a wacky thought either, however a good tech should have checked that before swapping the alt since it's not one of the easier ones to change. If the flickering lights return I would go back to the alt, ref prevoius posts.
  13. Do you have a Ford CD for your car? No I dont have a ford CD i have the original tape. Well Henny Youngman would have been proud! What aussie ford meant was a Ford shop manual on CD. Many of us have one. Even a Haynes manual might help. I hope I'm not tool late to tell ya the mega fuse has nothing to do with the starting system. It's a 175amp fuse used between the alternator and the battery in case the alt frags and puts out too much current. The fuse blows before burning up the battery and the rest of the electrical system. Assuming your an automatic I would start out by running the trans selector from Park down to 1 and back to P or N. There's a trans range sensor on top of the tranny that is part of the starting circuit. Car has to be in N or P to start. You could very well have bad wiring issues also. Heres a Notepad copy of the wiring harness TSB that I got from someone else in here. There was a 10yr/100k mile time limit so you might be out of range for free repairs. Recall_ONP_99M03.txt
  14. Give yourself a couple of days driving it. My clutch is very light too and sometimes in the morning just warming up or waking up....if I shift just right I can make it porpoise. All settles out after a while.
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