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jeffmknight

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jeffmknight last won the day on May 14 2012

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About jeffmknight

  • Birthday October 1

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    http://www.fordcontour.org/index.php?app=garage&do=view&tab=main&id=224
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    Male
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    SL UT
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    You know... stuff..

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  • Vehicle owned
    1998 SVTC E0 #0630
  1. .. same result as molding but "printed" instead, one layer at a time. I really like this new technology, but it seems to be heavily concealed since the gov't found out it could be used by the public to make illegal gun parts.. I would have bought a full set of these JPCs, but my baby is up for sale. Good idea though ContourMan I'm anxious to see the finished product!
  2. Hope you're not running it without fluid in it, not even in 'neutral'! ..Now, regarding your questions: 1. Clutch is hydraulic self-adjusting type. Only thing you can do is make sure it's bled properly, the rest 'is what it is'. 2. You have probably read somewhere by now "absolutely never run ATF!".. The appropriate lube is a Full Synthetic Manual Trans Fluid http://www.fordconto...ans-lube-chart/ I am running Royal Purple Synchromax which many have used and is a bit less expensive than the Ford lube. I think there are a few others you can use, but these two are the best IMO. Should take almost three quarts, fill to spill. The port is an Allen-drive plug on the front of the trans. Drain is on the right side of the lower-most part of the trans, and IIRC it's also Allen.
  3. Like I said, I am without my Ford CD for now so I am quite handicapped... IMRC plugged in or unplugged though, you will want to make sure the secondaries are fully closed because that will cause problems if they are not. If the IMRC has failed, there's no telling what position it has the butterflies in. Also, since you determined applying vacuum to the EGR causes it to stumble, and this is also your symptom, I would think the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid would be to blame here, esp since everything else tested ok.. So, basically your EGR operates properly, but IMO the control that runs the EGR may be acting up.
  4. You said you unplugged the IMRC because it was acting up, so are the secondaries in the open or closed position? What about the EGR vac solenoid you and Spridget were talking about? Sorry, I am without my Ford CD right now...
  5. Engine Mount, Trans Mount, Roll Restrictor, Roll Restrictor... and a Torque Strut HaHa
  6. Sorry, I didn't understand the electrical tests you talked about earlier, so I thought I would throw out there that I had these parts if you needed them. Honestly, it sounds like the EGR is working as designed if it stalled when you applied vacuum to the port.. Though I do find it interesting that the Silver SVT I just sold to my buddy (94GT) has a persistent valve noise at all RPM, that doesn't go away but never really gets worse. I had discovered the PCV line was disconnected at the same place as yours was when I got it Have you verified that the IMRC is working properly?
  7. Did you clean out the passages in the TB as Dom suggested? I am quite suprised at how fast the soot clogs them up! I have a good EGR tube with the EGR valve, gasket, and silicon DPFE hoses still attached. Took 'em off my car when I added the Racebits goodies and had it tuned out.. If you end up needing them I can sell 'em dirt cheap.
  8. Looking forward to the day they give me like 40% off
  9. Here is a code for 5% off RockAuto.com even though their prices already rock! I order tons of stuff from these guys and they are really quick on shipping, too. Good thru October 28th 2012, the code is 110308109048650 Everyone can use it, and you can do so as often as you like until it expires!
  10. I know this sound silly but just make sure your plug wires are in the right locations. Seen it happen too many times! Otherwise I would have to say you're on the right track with the steps you've mentioned. I would also suggest a vacuum leak test if you haven't done that: get a cigar and blow smoke into the intake tract to see if there's any leaks. I found my TPS was leaking, so I added a gasket to it. Also, my VAC lines on the UIM were leaking, so I sealed those up as well. Sorry, but I don't think the TPS is adjustable.. IIRC you just put it on there and it's spring-loaded to 'ride' the throttle position without adjustability.
  11. Also, we had discovered the PCV connection coming from the block had been disconnected. Not sure how long it was run like this.. just thought it might be important.
  12. Thanks for the reply Dom. We fed it Seafoam thru the intake, drowning it for a 30min wet soak at the finish of the bottle. Started it back up and drove it some until the SilverSmokeShip was back to normal. After that we did the oil (M1) and filter (WIX). Also Autolite APP104 plugs and a Bosch wire set. No changes noted. We are still able to hear this noise when it's hot, but it is definitely much louder when cold..
  13. The humming noise is probably 'the moose'. Do a search on here for that term. Its a fairly common sound from the Duratec V6 that comes from the whole intake manifold. Restricting the idle air feed may help with this. I put a 1/2" copper cap inside the hose with a 3/16" hole drilled in the cap to allow enough air for the Idle Air Control to do its thing, but not enough air to allow resonant vibrations to develop within the manifold. As far as the revving goes, since your O/D light is blinking I am inclined to think you have a trans issue.. sorry but I know very little about automatics. I would also check the cruise control cable at the throttle body. I know it's not common but my buddies Bimmer was doing this the other day to the point where he had both feet on the brake and the car was still creeping forward.. Broken cruise cable retainer at the TB was pulling the throttle open! Good Luck!
  14. Have a fire extinguisher within reach at all times while doing this, and wear eye protection! Push the valve pin with a small tool such as a mini flatblade to release the fuel pressure at the port. Use some rags to block the spray and catch the spill. You will need a fuel filter release tool from the parts store to disconnect the lines from the filter. I can't remember what size maybe 3/8 or 7/16 (I bought the multi pack, cuz if you ever have to do anything up at the fuel rail, one of the garter-spring connectors there is a different size). Have more rags handy here as a considerable amount of fuel may still come out. After you install the new filter, turn the key on and off a few times to run the fuel pump. This should help get rid of any air in the lines and rebuild pressure. Hope this helps.
  15. Glad it's fixed. I just wish it could have been easier for you, friend.
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