My son has a 1998 Ford Contour SVT which we have been bringing back to working order. Latest problem is that the ABS allows the front disk brake fluid to flow properly but the rear disc brakes will not get any brake fluid. I would like to not give up on the car. Finding a replacement module/pump seems impossible. Looking for suggestions?
Which one of the oxygen sensors is for bank 1? This seems to be causing the stalling problem on my '98 Contour
I am getting codes p0102, p0171, and p1380 show up on my obd code reader. I think its my downstream o2 sensor but I'm not certain. can someone help please?
Fisker Automotive has been dealt another PR blow, as a wily lawyer has used a lemon suit to force the business to buy a Karma sedan back from a customer. Lemon laws are among the many consumer protection laws, which force car makers to buy a vehicle back if they've made a dud. Figure out how to purchase brand new car that does not have lemon law problems.
When life hands Fisker lemon laws
If you add beer to lemonade, you can get a shandy on top of the lemonade you made with your lemons.
A “lemon” car is one that is not working properly though, typically because the manufacturer did something wrong while selling it. It is not legal to sell a vehicle that does not really work to a consumer. This is where “lemon laws” come in play in most states requiring car manufacturers to purchase the car back.
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Fisker Automotive, the beleaguered company behind the super-stylish and moreover pricey Karma plug-in hybrid sedan, has just been hit with its first lemon suit, according to AutoBlog, buying a constantly broken Karma back from the owner.
Fixed too often
Create sure you look up your state laws for lemon laws because it changes dependent upon the state. To be able to get the automaker to actually purchase the automobile back, you may have to hire a lawyer and sue. Occasionally, it takes a lot of proof before they will do anything.
AutoBlog reports that the Fisker Karma in question was in the shop for a total of 120 days for seven different services on the car. The male in Wisconsin only owned the car since Dec. and has had to deal with a ton of difficulties in the seven months he owned the car, according to the Milwaukee Journal-Sentinel.
The Fisker Karma is a very expensive car, which you will find out on any auto loan calculator. That is why it makes sense that the man would want to get it bought back under lemon laws. Wisconsin’s law states that a vehicle has to be with an owner for over 30 days before lemon laws can be brought up. The man employed the most prominent lemon law lawyer in the nation, Vince Megna.
Fisker will be paying $103,550 to buy back the car.
Megna filmed a video at the car dealership where he asked if the Karma was even secure to drive since it is known for bursting into flames at several places.
Nissan agreed to buy two Nissan Motors Leaf electric vehicles back from owners recently since the batteries are dying in excessive heat. That means that Karma is not the only electric car dealing with a lemon right now, according to KPHO Phoenix.
A video for you to see
A couple weeks ago the g/f and I took a vacation to Mexico. For the first time since the Cougar's resurrection, the car sat for two weeks. I've been driving it nearly every day, and never a check engine light in almost 25,000 miles. My g/f drove the Cougar to work, and guess what. CEL comes on.
I check the codes, one for IMRC stuck open, another for failing DPFE (P0401). The code for the stuck IMRC happened a few times immediately after the engine swap. It turned out the IMRC cable bracket was slightly bent. A little "encouragement" and no problems since. I have no idea why the code appeared now 2 years later... but after clearing it, it hasn't come back.
I thought maybe these hiccups were just from sitting, and my g/f's inability to drive the car as it's meant to be driven (like it's stolen!!!). She's also used to driving our 2012 Jetta TDI 6 speed, which is very different. I cleared the codes which remained gone for a few days.... then P0401 came back. The DPFE is an original part, with 99,xxx miles on it now. I'm guessing it just needs a new sensor.
This 3L hybrid (which I built from leftover junk parts) and rod shift Quaife (built by TH) drivetrain have nearly 30,000 miles now. Less than 5,000 in the '97 Contour, and now 25,000 in the '02 Cougar. And this is the first real issue. I'm quite pleased :)
I recently looked around on YouTube and Facebook and found 2 dyno videos of my car I hadn't previously seen. One was by Nick (Ov3n) on NECO taken at CougarFest last year and my tuner Smokey's Dyno.
Enjoy both below.
I've been pretty blessed so far with my car and how many people really like it. It's one thing to mod a Contour, I've seen it done thousands of times. However, individual tastes are always hard to satisfy and I'm welcomed by the amount of people Non-Contour and Non-Ford that have commented on how nice and cool my car is. Peer support is always refreshing and uplifting... Even when you know your car looks good.. It's always nice to know that others think the same way.
The Mid Ohio SVTOA meet was one I couldn't miss this year. I attended last years meet at Quaker Steak and Lube in Columbus and won first, but honestly there was only us there and no other car enthusiasts present. This years event was held at the Mid Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington, OH. There was all sorts of clubs meeting there (i.e. Mazda, Chevrolet, BMW, Ford..etc...), and it was nice people were browsing through the other corrals to check out other cars. This is where I received some great comments about my car. I know hard work pays... But beauty is in the eye of the beholder. One man's cool is another's man's eww...lol.
First place in my class - TBH there was only 3 SVT Contour's there. And really no one to match mine. So I guess I expected I would win on principle, but it's not something I walk in expecting that I would get so much positive feedback.
Here's a few of pics from yesterday's show. I posted the best pics of the day (it was overcast but cleared up late in the day).
And a quick spec sheet I made to allow people to read about what has been done to my car without explaining it over and over again...lol.
Since the Contour is back up and running reliably it's time to get back to bigger and better things.
I revised the way I'm going to do this (yet again) and will not be using a modular but instead dedicated fixture jig for the car (more expedient). The chassis will be supported at four points on levelling jacks. Once I have the roll cage in the chassis will be more than stiff enough so I can cut up the floor, etc... and then roll in the powertrain sub-assembly on a different jig/cart that can be secured to the vehicle after alignment.
Anyway, I started making and installing the levelling jack points. These are bent 16 ga steel with two 12 x 1.75 metric nuts welded to the back side. The jack points attach to the frame/body structure and can still be used when the car is finished should the powertrain need to be removed.
Front (left)/ Rear (right):
Front welded in:
Rear welded in:
Jacks bolted in (passenger side):
Now who would've thought that the rotors could cause a vibration at 65 that felt like the wheel weights fell off? I do, cause that's what happened to me..lol.
New rotors came on Tuesday and installed that night. I test drove the car on the highway yesterday (weather permitting) and it drove smooth as glass on the highway - Something I've been missing for over 2 years.
All done now, time to move on...lol.
The rotors. I wouldn't have counted on it, but after checking them for balance - It sure is. 3.0oz out on one rotor and 1.5oz out on the other. This is a manufacturing issue, there is no way aside from removing material from one part of the rotor (or adding material) where it could make up that much difference.
I'm speaking to Rick @ Baer customer service about this issue, I hope to have a decently amicable solution out of this. I'll post a result when I get it.
So, another round of RoadForce balancing and having the wheels mounted to a fixture and checked with a dial indicator. All check out good and within specs.
But it occured to me that I've been overlooking one thing. Most of my balance issues started when I added the BAER kit. I'm assuming it's possible my 13" rotors are out of balance. It's not unreasonable to imagine this - And I'm going to take this one step further. Apparently on a 9700GPS Hunter balancer you can actually check balance on a rotor. I'm going to take my rotors and have them checked - It's the last possibility I can think of.
I guess I'll report back if I get some positive results.
Since it's spring, and I've been buried to my eyeballs in shop work - I need to keep on my own car to get some things straightened out.
First off, my wheels. This is year 2 of dealing with these wheels and not being able to balance them. I bought them brand new from Tire Rack, and have already warrantied the tires once (and switched brands just to take that out of the picture.). I had it a week at one tire shop, and second shop (Goodyear factory store) for another week and a half where they took everything apart and checked everything with the car (found nothing wrong, still shimmy's at 65-75). So...
I thought a wheel repair company would be able to lend me a hand, however I called Motomotion (which is a local wheel repair business for damaged, bent and scratched (curbed) wheels. They wanted nothing to do with aftermarket wheels and suggested I take them back to Tire Rack to be replaced. I like the wheels, so I decided to keep working with them. I am dropping them off tomorrow to a local guy who works for local dealerships repairing aluminum wheels (bent, scratched and curbed). I'm going to give him a few days with the wheels (off the car) and see what he comes up with...
I've since revised my approach yet again. The previous design I had (file too large to load) was proving to be cost prohibitive and too complex to manufacture in a reasonable amount of time. Despite being disassemblable, I have no good place to put the beams and several cross-members where they won't get damaged when not in use.
Since fixtures are only required for the front and rear subframes (powertrain location) I'm building a smaller 3'x5.5' table that when finished can be stowed in the corner of the shop and used for general fabrication.
It will consist of 8 8"x42"x1" steel plates spaced for T-clamps (similar to what you'd use on a mill table). These will rest on 3 2"x6"x.25" beams and each secured via 6 3/8" bolts. If I need to expand upon it, rectangular tubing can be placed across the table and fixtures placed upon them.
There are no permanent levelling jacks. This bench top will mount to a 1 ton scissors lift so it can be elevated and moved independent of the vehicle. 4 jacks can be bolted on when desired. The vehcile itself will be supported by 4 leveling jacks that can be fixed to the floor. This also helps when pulling the engine. Removal of the front clip allows the table to slide beneath and the powertrain unit can be dropped out easily.
With the Contour out of the garage and awaiting a tune I can start moving forward on other projects. The first order of business is reorganizing the garage...again!! This last iteration was a big step up as far as organization and efficiency goes but some more problems have arisen that need to be resolved. The industrial shelving that is serving as the combo weld bench/steel rack at the moment is getting taken down and a new dedicated welding bench and material rack built.
With regards to the Focus, my approach has changed considerably having had time to rethink design and construction.
Pictured is an in-progress shot of one of Andrew Gallacher's Cosworth swapped Focus' on a Celette fixture bench designed for uni-body straightening. Many vehicles are built in the garage with limited fixturing and as those familiar know, stuff moves once the weld pool cools and contract! In this manner, chassis dimensions are not as precise and is more difficult to construct not having reference points or proper means of constraint.
Manufacturing becomes simplified and expedited with this approach. Once the 3D model is completed, all one has to do is build the 'uprights' to support all the primary chassis pick-up points. Completing the chassis is as simple 'connecting the dots' with tube to the pick-up points. Being entirely bolted down, dimensional quality is higher.
I was going to use I-beams for the bench frame but will likely be opting for 6"x2"x.25" or 8"x2"x.25" due to costs and less welding involved (flanges, etc...). I'm attempting to minimize welding so as to not induce additional stress into the frame and minimize distortion in the bench. It will be bolted together instead.
Since the comment was made to me that Coil On Plug hinders tuning (and power) I decided to have a little fun and dyno my car before tuning (with COP) and after (without COP). I removed the COP system and built a custom bracket out of a Taurus coil bracket which hides the coil under the throttle body. I ran stock 2002 Cougar wires to the plugs and set out to see if there was an "improvement" by running regular DIS-6 vs. COP. I installed a brand new DIS-6 coil from Borg Warner just to make sure I was getting everything I could out of the ignition system. In the end the retune made me more power - The DIS6 system had no bearing what so ever on the results. After witnessing so many dyno's and tunes on COP.. It's what I expected all along.
Here's the before dyno (with COP, before re-tune)
Here's the after tune dyno sheet (without COP):
In case you think I didn't get a retune.. Here's some pics...
If anyone wants to buy the custom bracket I made (provided you aren't running EGR) I will gladly sell it for $25.00. I'm going directly back to COP, this was only a temporary setup for testing purposes.
I doubt I need to say more. I was contracted to install a complete Ford Racing 550HP supercharger kit and other goodies. The install went fairly smooth (97 pages of install directions which weren't exactly complete from Whipple caused some issues). However, it turned out nicer than I would've ever thought - And boy did that Mustang fly!
I'll post the video of the dyno, dyno graph and a small gallery of shots. Enjoy!
I have the car running again now on the factory calibration and it drives quite well for a full 3L. Idle is nice but still needs some throttle on start up. No leaks from the oil filter bypass. The system required about 7 quarts which is not a surprise considering the size of the bypass filter and the length of the lines. I made a new fuse box tray that goes over top so that the feed tube I made clears. It turned out quite nice. It has no bend greater than 45*, requires no MAF screen, and draws cool air from under the fender through a proper bell mouthed entry. At operating temp (short drives through the neighborhood) the tube is luke warm at the MAF and cold to the touch at the bend into the fender. It will be getting tuned sometime in the spring most likely.
I'll post more/better pics up later but for now here's the basic arrangement:
Yeah, I've been neglecting updates to my blog due to me being by myself for most of the time at the shop. But no worries, I'm above water again and will start posting regularly again soon.
In the meantime, I guess I should update with some projects I've been busy with over the past few months...
Couple weeks ago we went down to the Inner Harbor to see the cars. She's the ultimate charmer... guys want her to sit in their Ferarris. This year there were no Dino 246, but if I were a rich guy, I'd buy a Mondial before I bought a Dino 246.
That ride was pitiful. Started right up, got to bottom of the drive, and the
trans wouldn't go.... the engine lost power, sputtering. I rocked it as best as
I could back up the drive a bit, but it couldn't climb it. After wondering how
I'd gt it back to its parking spot, the engine smoothed out a bit. I decided to
see if I could launch it up the road. Very poorly, I got up to the intersection
on the other side of the ajoining empty lot. rolled it backwards and got it
turned around back down hill. Afraid it would conk before getting out onto the
road and up the drive.... I was able to back it far enough to take a downhill
assisted try at going through the empty lot. Musta looked mighty hillbilly
jumping the low hill up onto that empty lot :). Put it back in its spot, and
checked/added trans fluid. Again it started nice, so with the tranny engaging
now, I hopped up to the gas station for some high test. 2.5 gallon, and back
onto the road home... 1/4 mile. It did fine accelerating, then back to sputter.
I dove into that same side road, and drove around the developement a little.
Spells of smooth and severe miss, so up over the vacant lot I went. Got it into
So, it's got an issue with trans fluid. The linkage is hosed up... have to pull
it past drive, then push forward to drive to engage. Very prone to missfire,
prolly dampness draining spark somewhere in the dizzy area. Speedo doesn't
work, on and on..... Body rust bad enough in a few places to need real pro
repair and panel replacement.
I'm advising Hottie later when I go down to her place that it's NOT going to be
a practical daily driver for her. Poor thing.... she's going to be heartbroken.
None of the things I fixed were really due to sitting so long, and coupled with
the history the old uncle's receipts tell, this is one of those "bad" cars. I'm
calling her, "Christine" from this point on. Only a very dedicated,
mechanic/owner will ever get much more out of this ole Benz. Guess I'll have to
have Hottie over to drive for herself and accept the sad truth. I will say the
motor appears to be worth salvaging, as well as wheels and glass. These motors
do last pretty well, but are not very powerful... like 160 horse from an
overhead cam Aluminum V8.
I will try to resell the weatherstrip kit I bought once Hottie is all cried out.
I think she needs another Sube or a Passat.
The one short test drive I made in the car indicated dragging brakes. Understandable since it sat so long. I expected it was the parking brakes. The rim blasting exercise included inspection. The driver side pad wear showed only one (these are two opposing piston type calipers) pad was wearing. This means one of the pistons is stuck in its bore. These days I don't rebuild... I replace. The rotors aren't scored, but they are pitted from rust. There's certanly enough there to function, so I'll let the inspection guy make that call.... save Hottie a little money maybe. Parking brake shoes good and linkage free, So I replaced the bad caliper and put new pads on both wheels.
I'd also blasted the rear rims this week, but hadn't clear sprayed em till today. Too chilly and hungry to finish today.
Have noted that in two weeks since starting, the battery is too discharged now. It has a battery drain history.
Shoulda showed you a "before" shot, but whatev. They look awful.
I blasted the rim, then clear sprayed it. I have sand in my little spot blaster, then visited a pal with his box blaster. We decided his was another silica media cause I didn't want to use an oxide that could rust spot the alloy rims.
The center cap got wet sanded to smooth the edges of the peeled plating, then I used some chrome paint on them.... turned out nice although I don't know how well that stays on.