Since the Contour is back up and running reliably it's time to get back to bigger and better things.
I revised the way I'm going to do this (yet again) and will not be using a modular but instead dedicated fixture jig for the car (more expedient). The chassis will be supported at four points on levelling jacks. Once I have the roll cage in the chassis will be more than stiff enough so I can cut up the floor, etc... and then roll in the powertrain sub-assembly on a different jig/cart that can be secured to the vehicle after alignment.
Anyway, I started making and installing the levelling jack points. These are bent 16 ga steel with two 12 x 1.75 metric nuts welded to the back side. The jack points attach to the frame/body structure and can still be used when the car is finished should the powertrain need to be removed.
Front (left)/ Rear (right):
Front welded in:
Rear welded in:
Jacks bolted in (passenger side):
I've since revised my approach yet again. The previous design I had (file too large to load) was proving to be cost prohibitive and too complex to manufacture in a reasonable amount of time. Despite being disassemblable, I have no good place to put the beams and several cross-members where they won't get damaged when not in use.
Since fixtures are only required for the front and rear subframes (powertrain location) I'm building a smaller 3'x5.5' table that when finished can be stowed in the corner of the shop and used for general fabrication.
It will consist of 8 8"x42"x1" steel plates spaced for T-clamps (similar to what you'd use on a mill table). These will rest on 3 2"x6"x.25" beams and each secured via 6 3/8" bolts. If I need to expand upon it, rectangular tubing can be placed across the table and fixtures placed upon them.
There are no permanent levelling jacks. This bench top will mount to a 1 ton scissors lift so it can be elevated and moved independent of the vehicle. 4 jacks can be bolted on when desired. The vehcile itself will be supported by 4 leveling jacks that can be fixed to the floor. This also helps when pulling the engine. Removal of the front clip allows the table to slide beneath and the powertrain unit can be dropped out easily.
With the Contour out of the garage and awaiting a tune I can start moving forward on other projects. The first order of business is reorganizing the garage...again!! This last iteration was a big step up as far as organization and efficiency goes but some more problems have arisen that need to be resolved. The industrial shelving that is serving as the combo weld bench/steel rack at the moment is getting taken down and a new dedicated welding bench and material rack built.
With regards to the Focus, my approach has changed considerably having had time to rethink design and construction.
Pictured is an in-progress shot of one of Andrew Gallacher's Cosworth swapped Focus' on a Celette fixture bench designed for uni-body straightening. Many vehicles are built in the garage with limited fixturing and as those familiar know, stuff moves once the weld pool cools and contract! In this manner, chassis dimensions are not as precise and is more difficult to construct not having reference points or proper means of constraint.
Manufacturing becomes simplified and expedited with this approach. Once the 3D model is completed, all one has to do is build the 'uprights' to support all the primary chassis pick-up points. Completing the chassis is as simple 'connecting the dots' with tube to the pick-up points. Being entirely bolted down, dimensional quality is higher.
I was going to use I-beams for the bench frame but will likely be opting for 6"x2"x.25" or 8"x2"x.25" due to costs and less welding involved (flanges, etc...). I'm attempting to minimize welding so as to not induce additional stress into the frame and minimize distortion in the bench. It will be bolted together instead.
I have the car running again now on the factory calibration and it drives quite well for a full 3L. Idle is nice but still needs some throttle on start up. No leaks from the oil filter bypass. The system required about 7 quarts which is not a surprise considering the size of the bypass filter and the length of the lines. I made a new fuse box tray that goes over top so that the feed tube I made clears. It turned out quite nice. It has no bend greater than 45*, requires no MAF screen, and draws cool air from under the fender through a proper bell mouthed entry. At operating temp (short drives through the neighborhood) the tube is luke warm at the MAF and cold to the touch at the bend into the fender. It will be getting tuned sometime in the spring most likely.
I'll post more/better pics up later but for now here's the basic arrangement:
An update of the oil filter relocation with additional bypass. I have everthing mocked up in these pictures and of note is that I've removed the oil cooler as well. I still need the appropriate clamps on the bypass lines for extra safety and powder coat the bypass filter's bracket but this is the arrangement.
A bit of history with my vehcile. It is a 1998 Black SVT that I purchases with a blown engine for the sum of $737 and became a canidate for A 3L swap. The first was a STOP engine which I have since pulled for an 05' Sable engine.
As you can see it is a Full 3L from oil pan to manifold. I've stil a few things to sort out re. fuel system, TB, oil filter bypass and remote location of the oil cooler and main filter, and the main air tube amongst a few other odds and ends. Anyway, I'll have some more progress up as I complete things.