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  3. SVT-ROY


    He bros been a hot min! So yeah Anyone got parts? Who's driving what? Lets bromance SHOTTY
  4. And people wonder why the imports last longer than domestics? Scheduled service, that's what. Brake fluid changes are every 30K on Toyota's and other vehicles (our age that is).
  5. The Sierra XR4i is an automobile from Ford, with rear wheel drive, a front positioned engine and a saloon (sedan) body style. It's powered courtesy of a naturally aspirated engine of 2.8 litre capacity. This power plant features overhead valve valve gear, a 60 degree V 6 cylinder layout, and 2 valves per cylinder. It produces 160 bhp (162 PS/119 kW) of power at 5700 rpm, and maximum torque of 216 N·m (159 lb·ft/22 kgm) at 4300 rpm. A 5 speed manual transmission transmits the power to the driven wheels. Maximum speed quoted is 209 km/h (130 mph). Seen occasionally in the States as a Merkur
  6. mondeoman


    PDXSVT - I KNOW you have questions regarding how to make your Zetec faster, on the cheap!!! Ask me how I know this? LOL
  7. Aussie - what is this latest on the Mystique? I have been away for a few years.....my bad.
  8. Yes, spring is required on rear wheel cylinders (drum brakes). Rebuild kits may or may not contain these springs. Rebuild kits typically contain piston seals and end cap seals. Most auto parts sources moving to replacement wheel cylinders. Back in the day we use to clean up the inside of the wheel cylinders with honing stones in order to remove pits that are a result of water (contaminated brake fluid). Failure to remove these pits will quickly result in the failure of the replacement piston seals. Moral of the story here: Bleed your brake fluid completely once every 2 to 3 years. Way frequent
  9. Besides, wheel cylinders cost around $14 each.. even less on RockAuto. Is it worth it to ride around with missing parts?
  10. I believe the spring provides tension to keep the pistons pushed out. Without it, the pistons could be allowed to retreat further than designed which could cause the shoes to slide off of the piston slots and create a negative contact situation inside the drum.
  11. And the world will continue turning if I don't install this part?
  12. IIRC there is a spring in the wheel cylinder. Most people lose them when rebuilding as most kits only include the inner pistons and outer seals. -Dominic
  13. Is there supposed to be a compression spring between the little pistons? My rebuild kit didn't include one. The old part didn't contain one, but the last guy who worked on the brakes was seriously lacking, so I just don't know...
  14. On the 1995, the V6 engines were equipped with a DIS-6 module for the spark. That module has a "SPOUT" plug which can be removed to remove advance from the ignition to check base engine timing. Normally the car needs to have the SPOUT plug in, in order to run correctly otherwise the ignition will always run in fixed timing mode. The SPOUT plug is a square plug that plugs into a connector normally taped to the harness connecting to the ignition module (right side rear engine compartment). -Dominic
  15. Ok, noob question here and I don't plan to do weird thing on the engine. Talking with the guy that fixes my car (Mystique 1995 2.5), he told me a couple of years ago that he toched the spark timing for improvement due to smog test(?) After that, the car was lacking of power, last time I take it for smog test I commented it to him and he told me that he touched againt and it advanced the spark a bit, it really helped but it still hasn't the same power as before. My question is, how does one can advance or delay the spark on this kind of engines? Right now I have thi
  16. I would love to have the shop manuals sincerely yours Mark Raddon
  17. Remove the steering column shrouds (Plastic) and remove the ignition electrical switch (on the other side of the key cylinder). Then you can manually turn the engine off until you get the key cylinder issue sorted. -Dominic
  18. update: the cylinder has to be turned to the off position before the removal pin can be depressed or drilled out. It looks like I'll need to replace the steering column (ugh) unless someone has a better suggestion. any ideas?
  19. HI: 98 contour motor won't shut off, the key won't turn to the off position so I have to disconnect the battery. Chiltons says to depress a pin through a hole on top the cylinder, but it won't depress even w/ a hammer, so second option is to drill it out which I did but the cylinder still won't pull out. not with prying or a wrench. the key still turns so it's not crushed but it just never got the memo from Chiltons. Does anyone know what to do next? Thanks.
  20. Did you ever fix or condemn the transmission? I found this thread super interesting as my 1995 Contour with CD4E is still shifting okay at 178,000 miles, but of course I worry about it failing every time I drive it. I wasn't aware you could access the trans internals to some extent with the vtrans in the vehicle. Good info! Thanks for posting this.
  21. Code P1383 is due to the timing belt either not being installed correctly, or the VCT solenoid on the top of the cylinder head (plug is through the valve cover) malfunctioning. If you remove the electrical connector to the VCT solenoid and the idle smooths out and runs good - You have a timing belt issue where it's not installed correctly.
  22. 1999 Ford Contour SE 2.0 Having a problem with idling, on startup idles smooth then warm up becomes like it chokes but you you drive it runs tip top but slow down or stop idles rough and actually sometime the engine stops running replaced injectors showed bank one IAC, mass air, throttle position sensor, o2 sensor, spark plugs, and finally the code is P 1383, the car ran hot 2 years prior because the radiator fluid tank had a leak , replaced tank checked fluids and the car has ran very well no problems, then it showed a engine light and that's when the code came up with injector b
  23. Ok, slowly... but advancing. I checked code 21, as I understood it meant "something is not properly connected", I didn't think about how right this was... after reviewing a few wires I noticed some continuity and i couldn't get any continuity on multi-meter, I followed the harness until I reach each crash sensor only to find that... they aren't installed... 18 years and until now I notice that I don't have crash sensors installed. Years ago I noticed a couple connectors each side of the car that had nothing, and nothing near to be connected. I didn't think anything abou
  24. Issue is, is timing. Most 3.0L's are well over mileage that would be beneficial for swapping. I just did a swap earlier this year and I had to source an engine from Canada! Rebuilding the 2.5L SVT engine would be a good start if you want to keep it original looking. Otherwise, there are other options but they get expensive pretty quickly. Plus, with 180K the engine wiring harness is going to be one of your bigger issues.
  25. Car isn't too bad but needs some love original engine and trans to my knowledge. I only have taken the intake off and pulled the ignition system to see what shape she was in. With 180,000 on the odm there was alot of carbon build up on the throttle body and intake manifold but the plugs actually looked decent and none were wet or fouled. I love these cars and I would like to try and keep it original as possible. However I did have one in my early days of high school that was 3.0L swaped and I loved ever bit of that death trap. Should I try to rebuild the original 2.5 and if I do that how well
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