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  1. Today
  2. Pieloux

    shifter bezel on full center console

    Thank you everybody for your responses. I think the color is gunmetal grey but honestly the color is not a concern. I have the 1995 Contour service manual and it does not show that you have to change the all unit. I will check on ebay for the full units available. Pieloux
  3. amc49

    No spark need help.

    If you happen to have an older analog needle type voltmeter lying around you can read the blips off crank and cam sensors to tell if they are working, why I keep mine lying around gathering dust. And when I encounter issues with OEM connectors I dump them pretty much instantly to add my own much tighter ones and even positive screw together ones if needed. OEM connectors suck as far as reliability once they get older. It's not like you need to be able to disconnect them every minute and worth the trouble to have to work more to do it.
  4. amc49

    How to Rebuild an Engine like an Idiot

    Uh, the converter goes on the trans at install not the engine, makes it worlds easier to get together. You have no idea how close you have come to trans destruction, the converter will seem to be on the correct amount then it tears up the front bushings in trans. Most destroy in 20 minutes of running. When you change a camshaft the tappets or shims, whichever that one has (should be shim in a '98 zetec) have to be re-setup for that cam, every single one is different. So if trouble begins way early you now know why. The automatic is far more likely to break there, they are well known for it due to a known engineering flaw and why most end up in the scrapyards. And, engine or trans comes out the bottom not the top. Much easier that way. BTDT.
  5. Yesterday
  6. germanfordguy

    shifter bezel on full center console

    Less expensive: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Ford-F7RZ-7210-FA-Automatic-Transmission-Shifter/183274494273?fits=Model%3AContour%7CMake%3AFord&epid=2127217139&hash=item2aac02d941:g:5HgAAOSw3HZbIupv:rk:17:pf:0
  7. germanfordguy

    shifter bezel on full center console

    Its the full unit, but I think you have to replace the entire unit on a 95 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Ford-F5RZ-7210-B-Auto-Trans-Shifter-Assembly-1995-1997-Mystique/183229481589?fits=Model%3AContour%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item2aa9540275:g:h~IAAOSwQQBa~NYv:rk:4:pf:0
  8. Last week
  9. Aussie Ford

    shifter bezel on full center console

    What is the color you need? AF
  10. BuckeyeSVT

    Hello, Contour / Mystique

    I'll look into the approvals, but I haven't gotten any in a while. Welcome to the site! -Dominic
  11. BuckeyeSVT

    shifter bezel on full center console

    Unfortunately a parts yard (Pull-A-Part) or similar will be your best bet. Most parts have been obsoleted by Ford almost 10 years ago on that model. -Dominic
  12. Does anyone know where I could find the following parts : Full Center Console shifter bezel P/N F5RZ-7D443-B ? The one on my Contour SE 1995 with A/T is cracked and the indicator stays at "P". Thank you
  13. Earlier
  14. Chris Christensen

    Hello, Contour / Mystique

    Hello. Been trying to join any active group for years. I don't seem to have been approved on the FB page, I've sent a couple "join" requests over the last 6 months.. I think this forum is connected? Thanks 99 Contour, 96 Mystique
  15. jim_63129

    No spark need help.

    Why did you replace the timing cover, plugs and alternator? What was your original issue?
  16. Aussie Ford

    Woogieman’s Car

    Yes we are still here, and yes we can help you. Send me an email. AF
  17. Aussie Ford

    Hello

    Welcome, tell us about the adventures with your svt, and post a pic of two. Regards, AF
  18. BuckeyeSVT

    Hello

    to FCO! -Dom
  19. BuckeyeSVT

    No spark need help.

    Crank sensor wiring can fall apart way up the harness in places you wouldn't normally look. I normally replace the wiring from the connectors on the valve cover all the way to the sensor. Without a scan tool or an oscilloscope you won't be able to see what the sensors are doing aside from the wiring connections. Are you sure the 3 connectors at the valve cover are tight? They have a habit of breaking the locks and the connectors will vibrate apart causing the stalling you describe. Make sure you use two hands and press them very firmly together (sometimes the rubber seal inside will roll causing the connector to bind. It feels all the way together - But in reality it's not. -Dom
  20. 2003svtfreak

    No spark need help.

    So I replaced my timing cover, spark plugs, and alternator. After it was complete the car ran for few minutes then died. After that couldn't get to start. I have fuel, I could here the fuel pump prime and checked for pressure at the Schrader valve. So I replace the crank sensor and cam sensor and still no spark. I checked for 12v+ at the coil with the key on and it's good even while cranking. I checked for pulse while cranking and no good. Started unwrapping the cover on the wiring harness and the harness looks good so far. Coil and wires less than a year old.....I'm stumped and need some help. Sorry for the long read
  21. 2003svtfreak

    Hello

    What's up everyone! Thanks for allowing me join. I own a 98 svt contour silfro e0 and have had a little over a year.
  22. ottomatic

    Woogieman’s Car

    Anybody still hanging out here? I am woogieman’s friend and have his car. I am having sunroof issue and was hoping someone could help me out.
  23. BuckeyeSVT

    How to Rebuild an Engine like an Idiot

    That definitely sounds like you had an adventure! Welcome to the site!
  24. jim_63129

    How to Rebuild an Engine like an Idiot

    Thanks for that! So since there's irrevocable evidence that someone actually read my entire rambling, I feel the compulsion to continue the saga... So, after recovering some of the odd leftover bits and bobs, harnesses, clips, various accessories attached to the head and such, and realizing I had somehow blown the 175a fuse behind the engine, finally she was back on the road.... ...And then back off the road when I realized somehow my passenger-side CV had been abused a bit too much during the ripping-everything-out-in-frustration phase Rubbing and thumping under load is not a good thing... Now, you may remember my comment about hastily grabbing parts and leaving to escape the mosquito invasion at the junkyard... I then head back to the very same (this time with long sleeves and pants, #$%^ YOU mosquitos!!!!) and proceed to yank the pass. CV axle along with the joint shaft, then as a last thought, and to celebrate my triumph over corrosive junkyard opposition and an hour of yanking and sweating, I decided I wanted a fistful of fuses too, for my trouble. So I popped the fuse box.... ... And it had all the teeny weeny ones, not the somewhat-reasonably-shaped fuses from the 80's and 90's (which, for the record, were ALREADY small enough, for hell's sake why do you have to make them COMPLETELY impossible to remove without needle-nose pliers, because you know we never bring a fuse puller with us.....) and I'm sure the look of confusion on my face in that moment was priceless.... - I wonder why did they have to change the fuse box in this car? - I notice the fuse box looks just as worn / faded as everything else - I realize, I never checked the year on the car - I realize, after blinking a few times, I never checked the year on the car - I realize, after pondering the fact that there's a camshaft from this vehicle in the engine of my freshly built engine, I never... checked... the.... yeeeaarrrr.... - I also realize, I could very well have a completely worthless-to-me CV axle in that wheelbarrow over there... for many reasons, including a misdiagnosis of roughness under load, which could be because the damn thing's intake valves are opening a bit more or less than they should... But this is one of those moments where I prefer my luck to show up. Not in having good traffic on my way to work, not on getting that McDonald's coffee that has all the Monopoly stickers I need for a free small fry on a single cup, but instead, in just happening to be lucky enough to have blindly pulled parts from a 2000 Contour that was just within the window of compatibility for BOTH the camshaft and the CV..... Anyway, since then, we've taken the '98 on several drives, and I gotta say, this car runs so freaking good now... smooth as silk, all the power in the world, and the heat is unbeLIEVABLY luxurious as the cold months start to set in... I even ponied up for a bluetooth stereo upgrade AND an actual Working Speaker for the rear passenger side! (uh, yeah, from the same parts car.... lol) Is it time to relax? Hell no, I just yanked the engine out of my 626! (but I took a ton of pictures this time) Cheers, -Jim
  25. BuckeyeSVT

    Facebook Login

    Hello Members, I have worked with Facebook and reset the Facebook OAUTH link between FB and FCO. This means you can login to your account through FB, or open a new account through FB. Thanks for your patience! -Dom
  26. Aussie Ford

    How to Rebuild an Engine like an Idiot

    (ROFLAO) Well done. I and others here have had many similar adventures. As the saying goes if you own a Contour you need a support group. Your in good company here. WELCOME!!! Regards, AF
  27. pepsibottle1

    Stalls at idle, throttle hang

    Happy to report that replacing the old IAC with the new IAC from Ford solved all issues including the throttle hang. Thanks for the help
  28. I just went through all of this, and meant to journal the whole thing as I did it, but like anything else, once I get into things I tend to dive in and forget niceties such as actually taking the time to journal things.... so anyway, maybe someone can read this and NOT make all the mistakes I made, because it shouldn't have been so difficult! So, with no further preamble, *this* my friends, is how you rebuild a 2.0L in a 1998 Contour like a true-blue idiot: Step one: Use a cinderblock, flat-roofed garage from 1938 with 6'6" clearance and barely enough room for a 1998 contour on one side, and benches & stuff on the other side. Step two: Don't read the Haynes manual or bother to research anything, just take the hood off and start pulling things apart. Step three: Don't label the bolts, just stick them on the bench next to the part they go with and "Trust" that they'll actually *stay* there. Step four: Be sure there are no markings on any hoses to indicate where they hook up, we wouldn't want to disturb 150,000 miles of grime, now would we? Step five: As you disconnect said hoses, make sure you've got an insufficiently wide bucket to catch the coolant. Who doesn't like the smell of antifreeze on the floor? Step six: Get everything all disconnected, engine mounts removed, transmission unbolted before you realize there's no way to pull it out by itself, that it's supposed to go out complete with the trans. Step seven: Curse and swear a bit, realizing it now will NOT easily reattach to the transmission, now that the torque converter has come off of its splines far enough. Step eight: Decide to give up and send the whole mess to the junkyard, because you're screwed. Step nine: Over coffee the next morning, read the Haynes manual (yes, that you've had the whole time) and realize the converter can be unbolted from the driveplate from underneath the car. Step ten: Somehow wiggle under there and miraculously manage to painstakingly take each of the four nuts off, thus releasing the converter Step eleven: Screw around for two hours trying to get just the right angle on the whole thing without breaking transmission cooling lines to get the engine to slip out - but finally get it out. Step twelve: Grin like you've won the lottery, until you hit the roof of the garage with the hoist and realize you're not clearing the fender. Not even close. Step thirteen: Realize in that moment, there's no other angles for the hoist, this is it. Swear and curse a bit more. Look at the chain, nope, can't really get much higher on that. Step fourteen: Do some incredibly dangerous pulling and levering to swing the engine over the fender while still hanging on the hoist, almost topple the whole thing, but manage to get it out. Step fifteen: Impact wrench the driveplate off the back (My cordless 1/2" impact gun makes me feel like a GOD), and finally get the #$@#$^@ thing on an engine stand. --- Take a day off, drink a lot, try not to think about how you're going to manage to get it back *IN* the car --- Step sixteen: Start pulling all the bits and pieces off of the engine without taking pictures. Wow, really, no pictures? Nope. 17: Realize just typing numbers is easier. 18: Take it all apart and admire the three heavily scored cylinders, and the three pistons that were slapping them silly. 19: Off to the machine shop, for grinding, polishing, and inquiries as to whether the vehicle is even worth it. I just love it when they ask that. 20: Get everything back, .020 oversized pistons, .020 bored to match, it all checks out, then try putting piston rings on without checking the oil ring clearance. 21: Banging on a piston to get it in the cylinder is a fantastic idea. So good, in fact, you now have a chipped piston skirt to show for it. Hey, it won't throw the balance off *THAT* much will it? 22: Finally order a ring set with oil control rings that actually fit; wait for it to show up; pistons go right in. 23: For most of the rest of reassembly you feel pretty good; you put all the bearings in, checked clearance with Plastigauge like a good little shadetree mechanic, used assembly lube, torqued everything to spec, reinstalled the oil pan, flipped it back over, marveled that things were actually going well; 24: Then you torqued the cylinder head down on its brand-new gasket, etc. etc., set the cams in place, bolted them down .... wait, which cap went where? Crap. Photos woulda been nice. Thank Ford for stamping numbers on those caps, we managed to find an online photo... ok *whew* ... so, continue with confidence, and snap the intake cam spectacularly, perfectly in half. Yea. Brilliant. 25: Maybe now you choose to actually read the Haynes manual on the correct cam cap tightening sequence, which you were doing all wrong, of course. 26: You then start searching all over for a replacement, and realize salvage yards are going to be the only real option, here. 27: Realize 1998 Contours are NOT easy to find. Nor are Probes which share this engine. 28: Decide to give up and send the whole mess to the junkyard, because you don't want to spend hours and days traipsing around yards in a fruitless search for a car model that's outdated and nobody really seems to care much about. --- Walk away before you start breaking things you'll probably need later.... --- 29: Change your mind the next day, and give it at least one afternoon of hitting a couple yards to see what-if. 30: Ask the owner of the yard where the Contours might be. Get told the absolute wrong place to look, of course. It's a junkyard. We should expect to be sent in circles. 31: Walk for around an hour, cursing the fact that you're wearing shorts, as the mosquitos have Thanksgiving dinner on your bare legs. 32: Decide to cut our losses, when we finally see the last car in the last row in the very back. Yep. Looks like a '98 Contour to me. Kinda hard to tell, the back end is trashed. At least we know it was running when it was sent here. (Always better to get engine parts from a totaled wreck than a clean-looking body, for obvious reasons.) 32: *critical mistake* Take a look under the hood, everything looks fine, same engine, same bits, it's all familiar. Should be good to go. We don't need to check the year code on the VIN *or* the door panel to verify the year do we? I mean, that'd cost us valuable SECONDS of our life. (Actually, I seriously blame the mosquitos for this major faux pas. It was hell.) 33: Zip off the familiar pieces, cut the timing belt, grab the intake cam, and get out of there. (Stash the other parts and pieces in the back seat for later, in case you come back.) 34: Drive home, put that puppy on the head, follow the CORRECT tightening pattern this time; all is well in the world. Something looks a bit off, but hey, the length matches and the timing marks are good... so it should be fine... 35: Try to set the timing without priming the oil-driven hydraulic advance on the exhaust cam. Try seven.... freaking.... times. Realize hand cranking apparently is never going to get enough oil up there. Or, really, any oil, when you finally remove the oil filter and realize it's bone dry. .... Oh, wait a second .... 36: Realize, another instruction in the book, IF YOU HAD READ IT FIRST LIKE A SMART PERSON, says you must prime the pump before assembling everything. D'ah, crap. At least we hand cranked it, not bumped it with a starter or anything. 37: Flip the engine upside down, pop the oil pan (man that sealant hardens FAST! need that rubber mallet again...) and pour that pretty Royal Purple directly in the pickup tube, hand crank it thru, pour some more, hand crank it, pour.... wait, is that... yeah. OK, NOW screw the oil filter in and do it again..... ignore the Royal Puddle you just made on the floor... 38: Button up the bottom, flip it back over, whaddaya know, it's getting oil up there now! Timing goes.... close e^#%^$nough. It'll either run or it won't. 39: Timing considered done, water pump / etc. bolted on, sensors .... wait, where do they go? Man, pictures woulda been nice... well, I'll guess at it and try to find photos online... 40: Engine's done. We hope it actually turns over, much less runs.... ---- Step back, and wonder if $200 cash in hand woulda been better than pushing onward ---- 41: Next day, get it back on the hoist, lever it up, somehow jimmy it over that fender and back over the engine bay and .... ponder. HowmIgonnadothis?? 42: After some critical thinking, and maybe a bit of soul searching, we bolt the converter to the drive plate and figure if we really angle that transmission up *just enough* we can slip it down in there... 43: Nearly break the transmission line before realizing that disconnecting it is probably a good idea, but, finally get enough of an angle to slip the converter in the bell housing. Don't bother with the CV axle, just leave it hanging there like a total moron (more-on this later... see what I did there? Foreshadowing with a pun?) 44: The fun part; Try for hours to wiggle, rock, jimmy, remove and re-angle everything, shift, pull, push, swear, curse, nothing gets that converter onto the trans splines. Nothing! 45: Decide to give up and send the whole mess to the junkyard. Yea, even now, after all that machine work, all the assembly, screw it. 46: Come to our senses once again, come back the next day, think.... think.... 47: Put long bolts to hold the engine in line with the trans, lower the whole thing down level, and try again. For another hour and a half. Install all the trans mounts in good faith, and to give it a little more support, and keep rocking it / shoving it / whatever. No good. 48: (this actually happened) Really and truly commit to giving up on the whole thing, give it one last shove out of sheer frustration..... and feel it slide *right into place!!!* 49: Desperately hold it there while scrambling around with your other hand for a bolt --- any bolt --- that you can thread in to secure it. Luckily find one lying randomly on the ground. Was that from the power steering mount bracket? Wedontcareatthispointjustsecurethedamthing 50: Stand back and realize we *might actually finish this...!* --- This is a great time to look at the counter, the floor, the parts, the huge, incredible mess we've made --- OK, reality sets in; We've got the engine in there, now we throw on all the bits and pieces; exh/intake manifolds, alternator, covers, wires, guessing at half of them, broke a connector? No problem just shove the wires onto their pins.... This part is all kind of a blur, but the finish line is in sight.... ... Somehow we manage to find the right fasteners for the right things, or at least close enough that it seems to hold things in place. There are approximately seventeen bolts that apparently were birthed on the counter spontaneously during this exercise, but clearly there's no more bolts needed (right?) and finally we're ready to crank it. So we do, but nothing fires. No gas, no spark. Another hour of troubleshooting ensues, of course we never check the fuse box; why would the fuses be an issue? It ran fine when parked... It's almost hilarious to think, after reassembling an entire engine and installing it, somehow we forgot that we pulled a random 20a fuse for my girlfriend's car when we installed her stereo. And as Murphy's Law would have it, that just happened to be the very fuse that drives the ignition module.... Now, after all of that, it seems a fantasy come true when we turn the key, and it cranks for a split second before firing up... and actually.... runs. We replace the transmission fluid and manage to back it out of the garage for the first time in six months.... what's that rubbing noise? Meh. We'll deal with that later.... it actually moves under its own power! Happy endings do exist, after all!
  29. BuckeyeSVT

    New to the group

    -Dominic
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