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  1. Today
  2. Normally well before that age the IMRC usually dies and the secondaries fail to open which means no power on the highway. I was once passed by a stock Honda Civic when my secondaries were dead. I fixed that fast...lol. IMRC is the box on the front valve cover that connects by a cable to the lower intake manifold. It's not too hard to change, and easy to diagnose. They normally quit when the engine heats up and you can test by revving the engine up to 4,000 RPM. It should move the lever on the lower intake manifold if working correctly. If not, it's failed. That's the easiest thing that kills power - Then we move onto exhaust restrictions like converters failed and such. -Dominic
  3. Yesterday
  4. So to start out, my SVT is bone stock. off the line, it pulls pretty good for a 215k mile car, but one im up to interstate speeds it gets a bit sluggish and about 115mph is all it has, My girlfriends LX outruns me on top end lol. i know i have a stuck downstream O2 sensor that i plan on replacing soon along with some colder plugs, new wires, and a new coil. just wondering if theres anything i need to check along with that. I should also mention that i have an intermittent idle hang issue that i have already replaced in IAC for. My next move if the basic maintinence doesnt fix it is to monitor my fuel pressure at high speeds and see if i may have a weak pump but i would think that would affect bottom end performance as well, and i have already replaced the filter. I love the car and plan on building an engine for it hopefully within the next year but its currently my daily so im trying to get the small bugs worked out. Thanks
  5. Earlier
  6. to FCO! Lurk or join, glad to see you join! -Dominic
  7. It's been a while since I've had the opportunity to replace a failed differential. Does the car make any noise when in gear and the clutch is let out? Does the speedometer go up when in first gear and the throttle is applied lightly? Unfortunately most of the parts for these cars are discontinued and I don't see a listing for the differential available from Ford. Lots of parts are available for the automatics, but most of the parts for the manuals are gone. Perhaps sourcing a used transmission may be easier? -Dominic
  8. I'm a 65yo retired male on fixed income from Tulsa Oklahoma USA, owned by a '99 Contour LX 4cyl automatic, type clumsily, consistently inconsistent, inconsistently consistant, ironically funny at times, takes an age to get anything done, other than that I'm perfect. Seeks: help from time to time, web-based pats on back, etc. Have lurked at fco & ceg a long time My mechanical abilitys are not what they used to be. I tend to put each sentance on it's own line.
  9. Are either of these replacement parts available? I had the shifter problem before in a prior Contour I owned and seem to recall there was a beefier part offered from an aftermarket vendor. Thanks for your comment!
  10. The weak point in these transmissions is the differential. If it goes, the transmission will feel like it will go in gear - But the car will not move. Sometimes you can put it in gear and the speedometer will show wheel speed as you are sitting still. The other issue is the pin in the shifter housing. Normally there is no snapping noise, and the shifter goes numb and loose between gears. -Dominic
  11. I have a black 2k Csvt, 125k miles, apparently the Trans needs to be pulled to determine what's wrong (clutch, flywheel, trans). To replace flywheel & clutch is $2.5k. I stopped at a red light, heard a snap and when I tried to go, I couldn't. The shifter seems to go through the gears (I feel the typical resistance shifting), but seemingly, no engagement with the engine to the wheels. Maybe some slight movement possibly exhaust thrust . Any thoughts? Not sure the car is worth fixing. Merrimack Valley, MA area.
  12. There is nothing really out there aside from custom tuning which runs $600-$800 and the gains are not impressive. Most people drop the 2.5L and install a 3.0L for more performance potential. However you are pretty late to that scene as the engines that are used for that transfer are already pretty much dried up. -Dominic
  13. I'm trying to find an engine tune for my car to hopefully gain a bit of performance and mpg. But everything iv seen online is either WAY too expensive or doesn't specify that it's for my car.
  14. Sounds like an electrical problem. Speed sensor on the transmission can fray the wires at the transmission end and cause the anti theft system to act up and car not to start. Fast idle is a function of coolant temperature. As the engine coolant gets warmer, the startup idle gets lower and lower. Leaving it sit for an hour is allowing the coolant to return to ambient temperature causing the faster idle you are seeking. -Dominic
  15. Sometimes car will randomly not start. When i get in, put the key in the ignition, lights come on, normal, then i turn it all the way to on and wierldly enough the parking brake light comes on, the antitheft light glows red for a sec then returns to flashing, it does nothing. No click no nothing, all the dash lights come on tho. Under the hood u can hear a buzzing sound when the key is turned to the on position, havent really looked for the exact location its coming from. Another thing worth mentioning is, everytime u start it then turn it off it will have a lower and lower rpm level. Will return to its usual 2k rpm start up after an hr of being shut off. Edit: it's a 2000 ford contour 2.5v6, auto 125k
  16. Thanks for letting me know, I deactivated my Facebook years ago so I may have to deal with some loss of privacy to sell it!
  17. Honestly, with the daily traffic here what it is... I'm not sure it's your best bet. I welcome you to make a post in the General Forum with the For Sale ad... But Facebook Marketplace seems to be the go to these days. -Dom
  18. to FCO! Clean examples are hard to come by, keep it nice... Love a clean black SVT! -Dom
  19. I am also looking to sell my Contour SVT, and I was unsure about posting it or where to on this forum.
  20. Hey everyone, my names Sam and I currently own a 99 Contour SVT black with tan interior. I purchased the car back in 2006 when I was in high school. I believe I am the 3rd owner of the vehicle. It was my daily for over 12 years and is still one of my most favorite cars to drive. Sadly though I'm looking to part ways with it due to the fact that I don't have space to keep it. But I would rather it be bought by someone who appreciates the vehicle! I was on the contour.org forum back in the day, but haven't been on it for a while. Glad to see this community though is strong and going, hopefully one day I'll be able to purchase another SVT and build it up like I always wanted.
  21. If it's a GL 2.0L, they normally leak around the thermostat housing. Very common issue. I would check for signs of leakage around the thermostat housing and the cylinder head. -Dominic
  22. Just got my contour Gl 5 speed manual, Its been sitting for a few years and has small coolant leak, runs fine other than while sitting in traffic or driving around town it gets very hot. It hasn't over heated yet but its shows about to the L on the gauge, coolant an has been seen once running right after start up but wont turn on any other time. Any thoughts? thank you!
  23. So to start off, My name is Casey and i have owned a 00' SVT since about april. I was never into contours until i met met my girlfriend about 6 years ago. She has owned a 99 LX for about 10 years and naturally as a car guy, i started to learn more about it and discovered that they were very fun little cars, then of course when i found out that SVT built one, i just had to have it lol. We are currently in the process of restoring and modding hers (i just built a fresh engine and dropped it in last january) and i currently daily my SVT while i build my miata, after which the SVT will go down to be built. Hoping to do some interesting things to both in the future.
  24. Hello, At th end, I managed to find my Ford Contour/Mystique service manual, it was stored at my grand mothers house about 8 years ago. I found that the test module is just ast its name; a test module, it can't trigger the air bags deployment, this task is done directly by the crash sensors that are directly hard wired to the bags. With this information, I think that it is totally safe to plug the missing test module into the car, of course, the battery has to be disconnected for at least a minute before installing it. Even when in the service manual describes the expected voltages pin by pin, I think that my first step will be to test the system with the test module before taking any further step. As Dominic wrote, it could be dangerous for a hobbyst.
  25. Normally, the airbag system will output a code through the airbag light by pulsing it. Quick and long pulses can be read for a code number. -Dominic
  26. On the 2.0L's there are 2 coolant sensors. One for the PCM (Engine controller ) and one for the gauge inside. The sender for the computer is normally on top of the thermostat housing. The temperature gauge sender is normally below the housing with a rectangular plug. -Dominic
  27. I totally agree with you. Testing air bag system requires appropriate (service) tools and is not for the common DIY'er. However, the only interest with the service manual is that it gives you the description and operation of the system and the location of the components.
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