Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Last week
  2. Earlier
  3. Remove the steering column shrouds (Plastic) and remove the ignition electrical switch (on the other side of the key cylinder). Then you can manually turn the engine off until you get the key cylinder issue sorted. -Dominic
  4. update: the cylinder has to be turned to the off position before the removal pin can be depressed or drilled out. It looks like I'll need to replace the steering column (ugh) unless someone has a better suggestion. any ideas?
  5. HI: 98 contour motor won't shut off, the key won't turn to the off position so I have to disconnect the battery. Chiltons says to depress a pin through a hole on top the cylinder, but it won't depress even w/ a hammer, so second option is to drill it out which I did but the cylinder still won't pull out. not with prying or a wrench. the key still turns so it's not crushed but it just never got the memo from Chiltons. Does anyone know what to do next? Thanks.
  6. Did you ever fix or condemn the transmission? I found this thread super interesting as my 1995 Contour with CD4E is still shifting okay at 178,000 miles, but of course I worry about it failing every time I drive it. I wasn't aware you could access the trans internals to some extent with the vtrans in the vehicle. Good info! Thanks for posting this.
  7. Code P1383 is due to the timing belt either not being installed correctly, or the VCT solenoid on the top of the cylinder head (plug is through the valve cover) malfunctioning. If you remove the electrical connector to the VCT solenoid and the idle smooths out and runs good - You have a timing belt issue where it's not installed correctly.
  8. 1999 Ford Contour SE 2.0 Having a problem with idling, on startup idles smooth then warm up becomes like it chokes but you you drive it runs tip top but slow down or stop idles rough and actually sometime the engine stops running replaced injectors showed bank one IAC, mass air, throttle position sensor, o2 sensor, spark plugs, and finally the code is P 1383, the car ran hot 2 years prior because the radiator fluid tank had a leak , replaced tank checked fluids and the car has ran very well no problems, then it showed a engine light and that's when the code came up with injector b
  9. Ok, slowly... but advancing. I checked code 21, as I understood it meant "something is not properly connected", I didn't think about how right this was... after reviewing a few wires I noticed some continuity and i couldn't get any continuity on multi-meter, I followed the harness until I reach each crash sensor only to find that... they aren't installed... 18 years and until now I notice that I don't have crash sensors installed. Years ago I noticed a couple connectors each side of the car that had nothing, and nothing near to be connected. I didn't think anything abou
  10. Issue is, is timing. Most 3.0L's are well over mileage that would be beneficial for swapping. I just did a swap earlier this year and I had to source an engine from Canada! Rebuilding the 2.5L SVT engine would be a good start if you want to keep it original looking. Otherwise, there are other options but they get expensive pretty quickly. Plus, with 180K the engine wiring harness is going to be one of your bigger issues.
  11. Car isn't too bad but needs some love original engine and trans to my knowledge. I only have taken the intake off and pulled the ignition system to see what shape she was in. With 180,000 on the odm there was alot of carbon build up on the throttle body and intake manifold but the plugs actually looked decent and none were wet or fouled. I love these cars and I would like to try and keep it original as possible. However I did have one in my early days of high school that was 3.0L swaped and I loved ever bit of that death trap. Should I try to rebuild the original 2.5 and if I do that how well
  12. Hello everyone, I have not posted much on here, but I do have an account on CEG where I am currently documenting my '98 CSVT build. Feel free to check it out here, but I'll probably be starting a thread on here as well at some point. Anyways, I recently decided to buy a Quaife differential for my build. However, I have been looking for a local shop to do the installation. The first shop (and only one so far) to get me an estimate quoted me $500 to install the differential, as well as inspect everything while it was taken apart. It seems a bit steep to me, but it also s
  13. what would be the reason behind that? just out of curiosity.
  14. For the amount of work involved - It wouldn't be worth it. You would need engine harnesses, computer, mounts, and a different transmission as the bellhousing on the 4cylinder is different than the V6 models. That means you would need to replace the transmission as well. By that time, you could buy a complete car and be ahead significantly. -Dominic
  15. Could I swap 98' 2.0 to a svt and still use the auto trans?
  16. JustTodd

    New Wheels

    Hope the install went well. I dunno the specs on the SVT wheels (other than 16") but I'd strongly recommend going with the same offset. These suspensions are very tightly tuned for specific specs and may not be happy with a drastic change in offset or diameter. Love to hear what you went with and the results.
  17. Let me add to this, if nothing else to show how well and tightly designed the suspension is: use the recommended air pressure. Always. Too high or low and the car isn't happy. In fact, this is the most picky suspension I've personally driven. With 15's, 31 front, 34 rear. Period. Your 'Tour will thank you.
  18. I read up on the Zetec, too little too late. Only US models were non-interference. To save the MPG (1-2%), models in other markets were interference designs.
  19. After buying my GL about 3 years ago, complete with 14" OEM steelies, one of the first things that impressed me was the handling and driving dynamics. Reading up on the car, I wasn't alone in praising the suspension. The only problem I noted was the front-to-rear oscillation when coming to a full stop, indicative of bad struts. Although the car had low mileage (60k), given it's age I wasn't surprised and thought little else of it. That is until I bought a parts car, another 98 GL with the I4. I bought it mainly for the 15" alloys, some parts, and maybe to make a dollar on eBay. The
  20. Looks pretty dead but I'll give it a shot. I'm in Easley with a Contour GL and Cougar XR. I see the occasional 'Tour buzzing around here. Several actually.
  21. Welcome to FCO! Sorry to hear about your loss, changing the timing belt can be challenging for a novice but not impossible. I've dealt with plenty that had shredded belts and never had one have an internal issue from it. -Dominic
  22. I agree, a malfunctioning MLP (Or Manual Lever Position) sensor can cause that to happen. It's not super hard to change, but requires removal of the battery to get to the sensor. -Dominic
  23. Mine started doing that right after I bought it. Took it to 3 different shops and got 3 different diagnoses. The good news was the tranny was fine. Your problem is likely the neutral safety switch located on top of the tranny but a PITA to get to. When it starts going bad, it can send random signals to the PCM causing the kickdown, etc.
  24. Just another intro note. Bought my '98 Contour 3 years ago for cheap transportation after very light research. Being a car guy, I was impressed with the interior/exterior lines (not counting the clunky shifter), the driving dynamics, and the V6. This was a 2 owner local car with only 60k miles with 14" steelies. I quickly bought a parts car and swapped the 15" alloys and later the rear spoiler. BTW the alloys made a HUGE difference in the car's handling performance. Seriously. Besides being obviously larger, they also have a wider offset. I think the 14's were too narrow and kept t
  25. hello every one,2000 black contour svt just signed on,have a great day
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.