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  2. That's what I figured and thanks for being the only one to reply BuckeyeSVT. I did manage to locate these part numbers so I'll post them here lest anyone else is looking for them: F8RZ-3078-BA F8RZ-3079-BA (These are left and right front lower control arms.) W703901-S309 Bolts W703016-S306 lock nuts (These are the nuts and bolts that secure the LCAs to the car.) I've discovered from a local call to my Ford dealer than all of these are NLA. Their book says, "Improvise" for the bolts - whatever that means. I found an online source of the 4 bolts shipped to me door for around $50. There is one dealer on ebay from Puerto Rico who lists OEM LCAs and I've written to him to see if they are truly legit. He wants $100 each. I'm going to do further research from some other online retailers. I agree that MOOG is best as far as 3rd party producers of these parts go. I scored a set of rear springs from Moog shipped for $46. Sooner or later I'll get this car back together, but right now it ranks as the car with the worst suspensions I've ever had. More alignments, tires, and LCA than any other car I've ever owned. NoQuarter
  3. If you go with Dorman or a cheap aftermarket they will fail quickly. Sticking with OEM or Moog is a good way to go. There are no aftermarket bushings that I am aware of at this time. -Dominic
  4. Hello everyone! I've posted few and far between in the past here and evidently since it's been so long since my last post, my account must have lapsed so I re-signed in. Back in November of 2008 I wanted to upgrade from a 1974 VW Beetle to something newer with heat. Don't worry - I still have the Beetle and when this LX has had it, I plan to go back to VWs as I'm learning on how to fuel inject them and with a gas heater and thick undercoating I should be able to have a great warm driver in the winter. So I found a wrecked LX in a tow lot and for $700 I bought my LX with the 2.0, automatic, and 84,000 miles. I taught myself how to work on this car. I put another $1500 into fixing the wrecked mechanicals and bodywise - I didn't care so I've driven it with dented fenders from the time I've got it and added a few more battle scars from a jack-knifed trailer to a deer strike. The front end is held together with epoxy and bits of plastic cut from an old wet/dry vac. I just got back from driving it on a 140 mile round trip because mechanically I've kept it sound. All new wheel bearings, new fuel pump, all new brakes including calipers, rubber lines, replaced metal lines, when I first contemplated getting it, I asked the local FLAPS what is the #1 and #2 parts you replace. They said, "Springs are #1 and struts are #2." Sure enough - all the springs were broken or ready to break so I've owned the car to the 148,000 mile point so that now my lifetime replacements are kicking in. I go pick up my free struts next week! The bad part is the damn lower control arms on the front. I've had this car aligned more than any other car I've ever owned. I had the lower control arms replaced by a reputable shop and right off the bat I had problems because the ball-joints were bolted on and they clunked around when I hit the brakes. The shop hit the bolts with the impact which helped, but after that, the car would dart around worse than before. I had it aligned, put new tires on it with zero improvement. Turns out the bushing were bad and causing the lower control arms to splay out under braking and that was causing the darting around. So evidently there was some kind of recall on those aftermarket parts and I got free replacements, put them on myself (managed to use an engine lift and raise my engine about 5 or 6 inches to get that bolt under the transmission out because I was using the warehouse at work and HAD to have my car done by morning) with a major note to self to order the replacement bolts from Ford so that I can just cut the bolt off next time and insert it from the bottom. All was fine for about 2 years and now once again after new tires and an alignment, it pulls to the right unless you turn left while applying the brakes then it will hold a line. I'm getting sick and tired of this. The ball joints will be fine as they are only 2 years old and when going down the road the little workhorse of a car hold a line straight as an arrow but Lord help you if you have to brake hard and you're all over the damn road. So what I'm asking is if I should just buy OEM control arms from Ford since the car didn't do this until the ball joints wore out on the originals around the 120,000 mile mark OR if there are Urethane bushing that I can press into the arms to take care of this (like some kind of performance mod). I was envisioning if you could replace these with some kind of a swivel Heim joint with grease fittings, it would almost be worth it to keep the car tracking straight under braking. My issue is not rotors or brakes as that has all been replaced. It's going to guarantee be those aftermarket lower control arms and with them, I do quality for lifetime replacement, but with the amount of work that goes into this, I absolutely despise having to needless do the job over and over again. Your advice is appreciated and I now all ears. Thank You very much. NoQuarter in Nebraska
  5. I'm not aware of any manufacturers that rebuild differentials. All the aftermarket companies have dried up on parts and most parts are obsolete through Ford. Your best bet is a used transmission (would cost less anyways). Try http:\\www.car-part.com . They list quite a few transmissions available in the US used. -Dominic
  6. Lookin for a rebuild or new diff.please help
  7. I have an engine that I am removing for a 3L swap that has 112K on it. The engine actually is in decent shape and runs good. Would be a waste to turn it in for a core when it will get scrapped. $100 for the engine covers the core charge. Any interested parties please PM me. Located near Canton, OH.
  8. Well, that's one route. The price isn't bad, as long as they stand behind it after installation.
  9. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-Ford-Contour-SVT-2-5-Engine-New-Reman-OEM-Replacement/262485628098?hash=item3d1d5cd4c2:g:QIkAAOSwmtJXYfJD I found this motor this has been the best thing that I have seen thus so far. What do y’all think about this deal?
  10. Hi, I have a parking brake assembly failure and need to replace it. Cables are new, but I believe a new assembly from ford includes the short cable from the brake lever to the connecting plate for the left and Right cables. That assembly is no longer available from Ford. Does anyone have a source or a used assembly? Used parts yards in my area have scrapped all their Contour cars. I do have the Ford part # P8RZ2780DA I did see some replacement assemblies on Ebay but not sure if they would be an acceptable replacement. If interested, I have a 2000 SVT, Black in the Northwest/Merrimack Valley area of Boston.
  11. Way to go, what was the price?
  12. I just purchased a remote on eBay as well. Now let's just hope it works. The unit specifically said made for the Mystique 2.5 liter LS, which is my exact model.
  13. Thanks. I have seen quite a few on eBay, but wondered if there was a better source. At least I got a key that the alarm would accept!
  14. I got mine on ebay. I think you only need to get one for a Contour or Mystique. make sure it is for the correct year. I haven't got an extra one for my mystique but I've gotten several for my Contours. They were a reasonable price and all worked. AF
  15. I got mine in ebay. I think you only need to get one for a Contour of mystique. I have t got an extra one for my mystique but I've gotten several for my contours. AF
  16. I need e replacement Remote Control Fob for a 1999 Mercury Mystique. Any ideas where I might find the correct one. My dealer had one, but it didn't work. The Mystique did everything it should: beeped its horn, flashed the parking lights, and locked the doors..... but the remote, nada.
  17. I need the remote control fob for a 1999 Mercury Mystique, where can I find one?
  18. The internals are different on the SVT 2.5L Duratec engines. They have different pistons which give it the higher compression ratio that leads to better HP (170HP vs 195HP). Again, buy a good used instead of rebuilding if your choices are that poor. -Dominic
  19. Yea I’m shopping around to find something cheaper but it is not looking too good. But I did have a guy tell me he did not know if he could rebuild it because all he had was stock internals from the regular 2.5 durtex. Only thing with that one was I wasn’t sure if the internals are the same from the regular 2.5 to the svt?
  20. Rebuilding normally does not cost that much, I've built forged engines for less than that.
  21. Since the classified section was not used, I may just create a forum for Buy/Sell. You're the first person to ask, so I may do that soon. Thanks!
  22. Just wondering if you have the front license plate holder, the rear bumper grille and the overhead console (sunroof combatable) for your SVT? I really need to find those parts. Thank you
  23. PS, just did a quick google search on rebuilt car wire harness - seems there is more than a couple companies that might be options S
  24. I have not used them, but was given this website by another member: http://wiringharnessrestoration.com/ Steve
  25. Hello Germancarguy: Tried two years ago to do engine swap involving low-mileage 98 SVT V-6 engine into second SVT with more-solid rockers but the first mechanic was only partially successful with the transplant. Long story marginally shorter, my current mechanic says I need an engine wiring harness which I am learning is rarer than rocking horse_______. Yours and others' thoughts on how I might get this part/otherwise address this issue would be much appreciated. Stay calm, be brave, watch for the signs, Boesch
  26. I have been doing a little shopping around and it looks like is going to be $4000-4500 to rebuild the motor. I haven’t priced getting my wiring harness Refurbished.
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