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  1. Last week
  2. Sounds like an electrical problem. Speed sensor on the transmission can fray the wires at the transmission end and cause the anti theft system to act up and car not to start. Fast idle is a function of coolant temperature. As the engine coolant gets warmer, the startup idle gets lower and lower. Leaving it sit for an hour is allowing the coolant to return to ambient temperature causing the faster idle you are seeking. -Dominic
  3. Sometimes car will randomly not start. When i get in, put the key in the ignition, lights come on, normal, then i turn it all the way to on and wierldly enough the parking brake light comes on, the antitheft light glows red for a sec then returns to flashing, it does nothing. No click no nothing, all the dash lights come on tho. Under the hood u can hear a buzzing sound when the key is turned to the on position, havent really looked for the exact location its coming from. Another thing worth mentioning is, everytime u start it then turn it off it will have a lower and lower rpm level. Will return to its usual 2k rpm start up after an hr of being shut off. Edit: it's a 2000 ford contour 2.5v6, auto 125k
  4. Earlier
  5. Thanks for letting me know, I deactivated my Facebook years ago so I may have to deal with some loss of privacy to sell it!
  6. Honestly, with the daily traffic here what it is... I'm not sure it's your best bet. I welcome you to make a post in the General Forum with the For Sale ad... But Facebook Marketplace seems to be the go to these days. -Dom
  7. to FCO! Clean examples are hard to come by, keep it nice... Love a clean black SVT! -Dom
  8. I am also looking to sell my Contour SVT, and I was unsure about posting it or where to on this forum.
  9. Hey everyone, my names Sam and I currently own a 99 Contour SVT black with tan interior. I purchased the car back in 2006 when I was in high school. I believe I am the 3rd owner of the vehicle. It was my daily for over 12 years and is still one of my most favorite cars to drive. Sadly though I'm looking to part ways with it due to the fact that I don't have space to keep it. But I would rather it be bought by someone who appreciates the vehicle! I was on the contour.org forum back in the day, but haven't been on it for a while. Glad to see this community though is strong and going, hopefully one day I'll be able to purchase another SVT and build it up like I always wanted.
  10. If it's a GL 2.0L, they normally leak around the thermostat housing. Very common issue. I would check for signs of leakage around the thermostat housing and the cylinder head. -Dominic
  11. Just got my contour Gl 5 speed manual, Its been sitting for a few years and has small coolant leak, runs fine other than while sitting in traffic or driving around town it gets very hot. It hasn't over heated yet but its shows about to the L on the gauge, coolant an has been seen once running right after start up but wont turn on any other time. Any thoughts? thank you!
  12. So to start off, My name is Casey and i have owned a 00' SVT since about april. I was never into contours until i met met my girlfriend about 6 years ago. She has owned a 99 LX for about 10 years and naturally as a car guy, i started to learn more about it and discovered that they were very fun little cars, then of course when i found out that SVT built one, i just had to have it lol. We are currently in the process of restoring and modding hers (i just built a fresh engine and dropped it in last january) and i currently daily my SVT while i build my miata, after which the SVT will go down to be built. Hoping to do some interesting things to both in the future.
  13. Hello, At th end, I managed to find my Ford Contour/Mystique service manual, it was stored at my grand mothers house about 8 years ago. I found that the test module is just ast its name; a test module, it can't trigger the air bags deployment, this task is done directly by the crash sensors that are directly hard wired to the bags. With this information, I think that it is totally safe to plug the missing test module into the car, of course, the battery has to be disconnected for at least a minute before installing it. Even when in the service manual describes the expected voltages pin by pin, I think that my first step will be to test the system with the test module before taking any further step. As Dominic wrote, it could be dangerous for a hobbyst.
  14. Normally, the airbag system will output a code through the airbag light by pulsing it. Quick and long pulses can be read for a code number. -Dominic
  15. On the 2.0L's there are 2 coolant sensors. One for the PCM (Engine controller ) and one for the gauge inside. The sender for the computer is normally on top of the thermostat housing. The temperature gauge sender is normally below the housing with a rectangular plug. -Dominic
  16. I totally agree with you. Testing air bag system requires appropriate (service) tools and is not for the common DIY'er. However, the only interest with the service manual is that it gives you the description and operation of the system and the location of the components.
  17. I have a 96 Contour 2.0 gas engine auto trans, A/C, power assisted stuff, etc. Is there a thermal fan switch? The book says the ECT sends signals coolant temp to the ECU that determines how much the fuel injector open, also says it operates the temp gauge. The temp gauge no longer responds. I have installed an Autometer elect. temp gauge, I installed the sending unit for the gauge into what I thought was a separate (from the ECT) switch for the gauge, it's location is right below the thermostat housing. Now I'm having second thoughts that this sensor might be a thermal switch for the fan? However the "lame" Chilton book that I bought doesn't say anything about this unit. It's a 2 wire unit and by it's location, screws into the cooling system passage, green coolant definately spews out when I removed it, and it looks like a sending unit for a gauge? Any body tell me what this is? I'd appreciate any info.
  18. Using the service manual without the special service tools or training working on a system that contains low grade explosive charges in the frontal airbags is not a good idea. The airbag system works on resistance, the sensors and the airbags all work on resistance. Any tampering with the wires or connectors could cause other issues - Safety issues. The airbag system is pretty simple, but it's not something for the common DIY'er. You can choose to ignore this information - But it needs to be said to prevent something catastrophic in the future. -Dominic
  19. Hello, I have the "Ford Service Manual" for the 1995 Contour and mystique. Section 01-20B Restraints, Passive Supplemental Air Bag System describes the system and the diagnosis/testing procedures. Unfortunatly it is 70 pages and you probably do not need all of them. If you give me your email address I can send you the first page which describes what is included in this section and you can tell me precisely what you need. Pieloux
  20. Yes indeed WELCOME..... So tell us a bit about that car.... Was it properly maintained? Garaged? It is always good to start doing maintenance on a regular basis. Belts and hoses are a good place to start. Regards, AF
  21. to FCO! NE Ohio here as well - If you need anything just ask. -Dom
  22. Hi bought a 2000 Ford Contour with 25,000 miles on it about a month ago. Literally a gamma car. Runs great, fun to drive. I'm thinking I should start replacing vacuum and radiator hoses. For no other reason that they 19 years old.
  23. Normally a scan tool can do the diagnosing. There is no other method I would suggest to check the airbag system. It is self checking every key on cycle, so if the problem is fixed - the light will go out. -Dominic
  24. Hello, While changing the bulbs from the dash cluster i found out that the airbag light had no bulb, after putting a new one I noticed a solid light; I think that the previous owner had the light and the fix was to remove the airbag module since it isn't one connected under the dashboard; the connectors are zip tied.... I had two theories: The repair cost was excesive for the previous owner and she decided to remove it or The servie cheated and remove it and deliver it as "fixed" Anyway, I can get a "new" module from a donor, not crashed car, but, I would like to test the airbag system before connecting the module... I want to reduce the risk to automatically deploy the bags at the moment of re connecting the battery after installing the module. Any of you know a way to test the health of the crash system before installing the module? Thank you.
  25. Well, I guess I'm shipping it to the yard as a core. Pity. -Dominic
  26. That's what I figured and thanks for being the only one to reply BuckeyeSVT. I did manage to locate these part numbers so I'll post them here lest anyone else is looking for them: F8RZ-3078-BA F8RZ-3079-BA (These are left and right front lower control arms.) W703901-S309 Bolts W703016-S306 lock nuts (These are the nuts and bolts that secure the LCAs to the car.) I've discovered from a local call to my Ford dealer than all of these are NLA. Their book says, "Improvise" for the bolts - whatever that means. I found an online source of the 4 bolts shipped to me door for around $50. There is one dealer on ebay from Puerto Rico who lists OEM LCAs and I've written to him to see if they are truly legit. He wants $100 each. I'm going to do further research from some other online retailers. I agree that MOOG is best as far as 3rd party producers of these parts go. I scored a set of rear springs from Moog shipped for $46. Sooner or later I'll get this car back together, but right now it ranks as the car with the worst suspensions I've ever had. More alignments, tires, and LCA than any other car I've ever owned. NoQuarter
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