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  2. G Jiggy

    Intermittent Brake Fail

    Sensor ring. Hmm, that sounds entirely plausible. I'm familiar with the sensor rings and I should be able to see it the ring is bad in some way. But heck, who knows. I also have a buddy who has a shop with a much better scan tool than mine so I might enlist his help. I'll take a peek and get back to you if I have any questions. I really appreciate your advice by the way. Thanks.
  3. BuckeyeSVT

    Howdy

    to FCO! Don't be afraid to ask if you have a question. -Dom
  4. TommyTooHigh

    Howdy

    Just picked up a 2000 Contour SVT with only 86k. Cheap, too. Of course, it has issues :-) Hitting the Search button - might wear it out?
  5. BuckeyeSVT

    Intermittent Brake Fail

    By your description it sounds like false ABS activation from a failed sensor ring (mainly the rear hub sensor ring cracks and causes sporadic ABS issues). If you have a scan tool it's easy to see what's going on. If not, I would suggest removing the rear 2 rotors and looking at the tone ring (it looks like a toothed gear around the back of the wheel hub). I can help with pics if you have any questions. -Dominic
  6. G Jiggy

    Intermittent Brake Fail

    2000 CVT well-kept 121K miles. This problem has happened 3 times or so in the past (a year or more between incidents) where the brakes upon application go almost to the floor and slow the car very little. Otherwise, the brakes work great with good, hard pedal. It's quite a surprise when it happens. No heavy braking preceded the failure. This last time I was coming off the freeway onto a favorite twisty off ramp and hadn't used the brakes to slow but downshifted. As I rounded the last corner that merged onto the local highway I hit the brakes to slow for traffic and the pedal went almost to the floor. Kinda rode that out for about 50 feet and then hit them again and they were low and slowing the car but nothing compared to the amount of pressure I was exerting, which was considerable. The pedal came back after that and seems OK. Even tried a few hard stops after that from about 35 or 40 and they were hard and effective. No ABS brake light illuminated or CEL. When I got the car years ago (2009) with about 60K on it and a fresh brake job at that point (two new rotors and pads, I don't know if they did calipers). Figuring 60K from taking possession I could use a brake job so I have a fresh set of drilled rotors, pads, lines and caliper kits in the wings ready to go but I'd really like to find out what causing this problem before I delve into the new stuff.
  7. BuckeyeSVT

    Engine distribution box removal??

    Sounds about right. I would just make double sure that the positive cables are well insulated to prevent any shorts and possible fire. -Dominic
  8. tonyankyfan1

    Engine distribution box removal??

    Hi Guys- I finally removed the battery positive side harness from battery to fuse dizzy box, and yes it was a PITA. But it is ouT! The insulation is completely 100% flaked off, such a shame.. When i started to take it apart it got worse, the wires are down to bare metal at this point. I was thinking about heat shrinking wrapping the original wires, then applying liquid electrical tape, then maybe taping it up and slapping on some new loom. But to do this, I need to cut off the original metal plate that holds the 4 wires in place and connects to positive battery terminal. Has anyone done this before? or just left the original set up in place, just retaped the wires to protect them and put them back.. My plan is to add some DEKA 5307 battery terminals with 5/16 stud terminal w wing nuts holding the original battery terminals with 4 gauge crimped on lugs in place of the old ford metal battery connectors. Totally eliminating the metal plates via positive and Ground wires... Is there enough length on both original terminal wires and little wires on both sides, both + & -?? Make any sense? Thanks Anthony
  9. tonyankyfan1

    Engine distribution box removal??

    Thanks a million, Dom. Appreciate it.. I will attempt it now with this great 411... Anthony
  10. BuckeyeSVT

    Engine distribution box removal??

    The box is held down with one 8mm bolt at the back and it has 2 tabs that slide into slots in the battery bracket. The DB has a harness coming out of it that may need to be pulled out for access. Normally, you can service the box without removing it entirely along as the battery is removed giving you space to get it free. -Dominic
  11. tonyankyfan1

    Engine distribution box removal??

    Hi All- I have a 98 MERC mystique w zetec and also have the dreaded battery harness issue via insulation flaking off... =( It seems only the battery harness wires that go under the battery to box are bad and need to be changed or somehow insulated. How does one remove the dizzy box to remove these wires? If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it in advance!!! Thanks Anthony
  12. BuckeyeSVT

    Front sway bar bushing replacement

    I think clearance is going to be your biggest issue getting to the 4 mount to subframe bolts. I normally service them when I drop the subframe, however there may be enough room to slide a 13mm in there to get the bolts loose. It won't be an easy job though with the firewall right up against the lower bolts. -Dominic
  13. I need to replace (for the first time in almost 25 years) the front sway bar bushings. I read somewhere that it is necessary to lower the front subframe in order to remove the bolts. Is it true ? I checked in the 1995 service manual and it is not indicated that you have to lower the front subframe. Has this topic already been discussed in this forum ?
  14. jim_63129

    How to Rebuild an Engine like an Idiot

    Right, that's why the thread was titled as it was! If I could go back in time I would have done it that way. Anyway, I'm about 3000 miles into it and things seem OK so far, so I suppose I lucked out on this one!
  15. BuckeyeSVT

    Happy Holidays Everyone!

    Going into Christmas and then New Year - Just want to take a moment to say Happy Holidays from our family to yours!
  16. gordogo

    sunroof motor cover

    Help I need the same cover for the sunroof console map light. It has the switch for the sunroof and map light . mine is tan but any color would help. I cannot find one.
  17. Comano

    Fuel smell

    If anyone interested, this is an update. At the end I got myself an OBD1 scanner, I found that an O2 sensor was reading allways as lean, this was just one side. The sensor was replaced and the fuel smel is gone...
  18. Pieloux

    shifter bezel on full center console

    Thank you everybody for your responses. I think the color is gunmetal grey but honestly the color is not a concern. I have the 1995 Contour service manual and it does not show that you have to change the all unit. I will check on ebay for the full units available. Pieloux
  19. amc49

    No spark need help.

    If you happen to have an older analog needle type voltmeter lying around you can read the blips off crank and cam sensors to tell if they are working, why I keep mine lying around gathering dust. And when I encounter issues with OEM connectors I dump them pretty much instantly to add my own much tighter ones and even positive screw together ones if needed. OEM connectors suck as far as reliability once they get older. It's not like you need to be able to disconnect them every minute and worth the trouble to have to work more to do it.
  20. amc49

    How to Rebuild an Engine like an Idiot

    Uh, the converter goes on the trans at install not the engine, makes it worlds easier to get together. You have no idea how close you have come to trans destruction, the converter will seem to be on the correct amount then it tears up the front bushings in trans. Most destroy in 20 minutes of running. When you change a camshaft the tappets or shims, whichever that one has (should be shim in a '98 zetec) have to be re-setup for that cam, every single one is different. So if trouble begins way early you now know why. The automatic is far more likely to break there, they are well known for it due to a known engineering flaw and why most end up in the scrapyards. And, engine or trans comes out the bottom not the top. Much easier that way. BTDT.
  21. germanfordguy

    shifter bezel on full center console

    Less expensive: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Ford-F7RZ-7210-FA-Automatic-Transmission-Shifter/183274494273?fits=Model%3AContour%7CMake%3AFord&epid=2127217139&hash=item2aac02d941:g:5HgAAOSw3HZbIupv:rk:17:pf:0
  22. germanfordguy

    shifter bezel on full center console

    Its the full unit, but I think you have to replace the entire unit on a 95 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Ford-F5RZ-7210-B-Auto-Trans-Shifter-Assembly-1995-1997-Mystique/183229481589?fits=Model%3AContour%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item2aa9540275:g:h~IAAOSwQQBa~NYv:rk:4:pf:0
  23. Aussie Ford

    shifter bezel on full center console

    What is the color you need? AF
  24. BuckeyeSVT

    Hello, Contour / Mystique

    I'll look into the approvals, but I haven't gotten any in a while. Welcome to the site! -Dominic
  25. BuckeyeSVT

    shifter bezel on full center console

    Unfortunately a parts yard (Pull-A-Part) or similar will be your best bet. Most parts have been obsoleted by Ford almost 10 years ago on that model. -Dominic
  26. Does anyone know where I could find the following parts : Full Center Console shifter bezel P/N F5RZ-7D443-B ? The one on my Contour SE 1995 with A/T is cracked and the indicator stays at "P". Thank you
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