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  3. I don't own a contour but as you can see I have a 1998 zetec equipped Escort wagon. I have seen a number of places where swapping out the 98 injectors for later injectors gives a boost in power and economy. I currently have Denso injectors that are the round EV1 looking type, but it appears the later zetec used the bosch EV6 type with the same connectors. I also suspect my current injectors are a single hole, where the later ones are 4 hole which should give better atomization. Are the injectors the same spray pattern on early ( silver top) and later (black top) zetecs? This swap could make a nice simple upgrade. I also may need to go to a higher capacity injector. The stocks are about 19 lbs per hour at 80%, which means they may top out at 100% at about 150HP. I my be getting close to that with some of the bolt ons I am doing. I have a friend with similiar bolt ons, but is using the ZX2 SR ECM so he may really need more fuel. Alot of people have been using the orange or yellow top injectors off the crown vic or mustang, but I don't know if these are the proper spray pattern. I especially want to get better economy, but the performance boost would be nice too. My 1993 wagon I was able to get nearly 50MPG on the highway going a steady 62 mph with the stock 1.9 auto and some good aero and intake upgrades. I currently only get about 29 to 30. Bolt ons include 25% underdrive pulley, Pacesetter shorty headers into stock cat, iceman intake, cut intake box with 3 inch cold air inlet, 2 1/4 inch exhaust, intake system insulated. Any insight would be appreciated.
  4. Have a great Turkey day! Try not to burn anything down while cooking the bird... -Dominic
  5. well, looks like i found the culprit. Compression readings are as follows #1 - 145psi #2 - 145psi #3 - 115psi #4 - 140psi #5 - 145psi #6 - 125psi To my understanding, minimum spec is 170ish psi, so looks like ill be hunting a 3L sooner than i planned.
  6. sorry for the late reply. I do have a code for my SRV but its currently working. im gonna swap sensors tomorrow and do a compression test for giggles and see what i come up with. I daily the car currently 120 miles a day and im starting to notice that its feeling a bit sluggish through the powerband and im finding myself stalling out a lot more coming to a quick stop in the city. ill post my findings as soon as i can.
  7. I cut open whole wiring harness fixed wires that insulation had cracked off it.flaking of insulation on the 98 was a problem. It was time consuming but have had no problems.if any flaking is found anywhere do your self a favor and cut open whole harness before other issues arise.
  8. The length of the sensor lead may be an issue, but electrically they are the same. -Dominic
  9. ill check it. i always assumed it was working as i can feel the engine pick up a bit in the higher RPM range. If all else fails, ive been looking at headers and a cross pipe anyway lol. One quick question tho, are the 2.0 and 2.5 downstream sensors the same? i have a 2.0 parts car that i may steal one from if so for testing, but when i go through the trouble of getting headers then ill replace them all.
  10. Normally well before that age the IMRC usually dies and the secondaries fail to open which means no power on the highway. I was once passed by a stock Honda Civic when my secondaries were dead. I fixed that fast...lol. IMRC is the box on the front valve cover that connects by a cable to the lower intake manifold. It's not too hard to change, and easy to diagnose. They normally quit when the engine heats up and you can test by revving the engine up to 4,000 RPM. It should move the lever on the lower intake manifold if working correctly. If not, it's failed. That's the easiest thing that kills power - Then we move onto exhaust restrictions like converters failed and such. -Dominic
  11. So to start out, my SVT is bone stock. off the line, it pulls pretty good for a 215k mile car, but one im up to interstate speeds it gets a bit sluggish and about 115mph is all it has, My girlfriends LX outruns me on top end lol. i know i have a stuck downstream O2 sensor that i plan on replacing soon along with some colder plugs, new wires, and a new coil. just wondering if theres anything i need to check along with that. I should also mention that i have an intermittent idle hang issue that i have already replaced in IAC for. My next move if the basic maintinence doesnt fix it is to monitor my fuel pressure at high speeds and see if i may have a weak pump but i would think that would affect bottom end performance as well, and i have already replaced the filter. I love the car and plan on building an engine for it hopefully within the next year but its currently my daily so im trying to get the small bugs worked out. Thanks
  12. to FCO! Lurk or join, glad to see you join! -Dominic
  13. It's been a while since I've had the opportunity to replace a failed differential. Does the car make any noise when in gear and the clutch is let out? Does the speedometer go up when in first gear and the throttle is applied lightly? Unfortunately most of the parts for these cars are discontinued and I don't see a listing for the differential available from Ford. Lots of parts are available for the automatics, but most of the parts for the manuals are gone. Perhaps sourcing a used transmission may be easier? -Dominic
  14. I'm a 65yo retired male on fixed income from Tulsa Oklahoma USA, owned by a '99 Contour LX 4cyl automatic, type clumsily, consistently inconsistent, inconsistently consistant, ironically funny at times, takes an age to get anything done, other than that I'm perfect. Seeks: help from time to time, web-based pats on back, etc. Have lurked at fco & ceg a long time My mechanical abilitys are not what they used to be. I tend to put each sentance on it's own line.
  15. Are either of these replacement parts available? I had the shifter problem before in a prior Contour I owned and seem to recall there was a beefier part offered from an aftermarket vendor. Thanks for your comment!
  16. The weak point in these transmissions is the differential. If it goes, the transmission will feel like it will go in gear - But the car will not move. Sometimes you can put it in gear and the speedometer will show wheel speed as you are sitting still. The other issue is the pin in the shifter housing. Normally there is no snapping noise, and the shifter goes numb and loose between gears. -Dominic
  17. I have a black 2k Csvt, 125k miles, apparently the Trans needs to be pulled to determine what's wrong (clutch, flywheel, trans). To replace flywheel & clutch is $2.5k. I stopped at a red light, heard a snap and when I tried to go, I couldn't. The shifter seems to go through the gears (I feel the typical resistance shifting), but seemingly, no engagement with the engine to the wheels. Maybe some slight movement possibly exhaust thrust . Any thoughts? Not sure the car is worth fixing. Merrimack Valley, MA area.
  18. There is nothing really out there aside from custom tuning which runs $600-$800 and the gains are not impressive. Most people drop the 2.5L and install a 3.0L for more performance potential. However you are pretty late to that scene as the engines that are used for that transfer are already pretty much dried up. -Dominic
  19. I'm trying to find an engine tune for my car to hopefully gain a bit of performance and mpg. But everything iv seen online is either WAY too expensive or doesn't specify that it's for my car.
  20. Sounds like an electrical problem. Speed sensor on the transmission can fray the wires at the transmission end and cause the anti theft system to act up and car not to start. Fast idle is a function of coolant temperature. As the engine coolant gets warmer, the startup idle gets lower and lower. Leaving it sit for an hour is allowing the coolant to return to ambient temperature causing the faster idle you are seeking. -Dominic
  21. Sometimes car will randomly not start. When i get in, put the key in the ignition, lights come on, normal, then i turn it all the way to on and wierldly enough the parking brake light comes on, the antitheft light glows red for a sec then returns to flashing, it does nothing. No click no nothing, all the dash lights come on tho. Under the hood u can hear a buzzing sound when the key is turned to the on position, havent really looked for the exact location its coming from. Another thing worth mentioning is, everytime u start it then turn it off it will have a lower and lower rpm level. Will return to its usual 2k rpm start up after an hr of being shut off. Edit: it's a 2000 ford contour 2.5v6, auto 125k
  22. Thanks for letting me know, I deactivated my Facebook years ago so I may have to deal with some loss of privacy to sell it!
  23. Honestly, with the daily traffic here what it is... I'm not sure it's your best bet. I welcome you to make a post in the General Forum with the For Sale ad... But Facebook Marketplace seems to be the go to these days. -Dom
  24. to FCO! Clean examples are hard to come by, keep it nice... Love a clean black SVT! -Dom
  25. I am also looking to sell my Contour SVT, and I was unsure about posting it or where to on this forum.
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