BuckeyeSVT

I would make sure engine timing (timing chains) is correct since it's been apart before for the head gasket replacement. The early model 2.5L's had false flags on the cams that people would line up and the engine would run poorly and could have poor compression as the valve timing would be out of sync from the crank timing. -Dom

Well, P1744 is the torque converter lockup circuit. Could be wiring, could be a solenoid in the transmission. I'm sure the shop will test the circuit and see if it's properly working. -Dominic

Is the CEL still on with the P0193 code? If so, they are overlooking something. -Dom

That's good to hear. Sounds like you still need to have that FRP sensor looked at though. -Dom

While we're on the subject, the early 2.5L's had some issues with carbon tracking the plugs. This led to them stuttering and running poorly cold or hot. You said it runs fine when hot, but gets poor mileage? Intake gaskets leak, fuel pressure regulators fail... It could be a lot of things causing those issues. -Dominic

High input normally refers to electrical voltage received from the sensor to the PCM, not fuel pressure. Plus, if you had high fuel pressure you wouldn't have lean codes. Everything would be the exact opposite. -Dom

Well, lets look at the codes. P0193 is the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor stating high input. This normally occurs from a wiring short, or the sensor itself has failed. P0171 & P0174 are system lean codes for both banks. If your FRP sensor is malfunctioning I would suggest repairing that first before getting into the lean codes as they can relate to eachother. Without a proper scan tool, you won't be able to see what pressure the FRP sensor is telling the computer the fuel rail is at. The sensor is around $60 last time I checked, but I don't advocate throwing parts at it. Do you have anyone with a professional scan tool that can look at the data from the sensor? I don't like spending other people's money -Dom

Most of the connectors don't fail, but the wires definitely fall apart (insulation wise). I would ohm check from the ABS unit to the sensor in question to see if 1. You have a short, or 2. you have an open. If it's a bad wire, you should be able to chase it down. -Dom

Normally all cylinders are supposed to be within 10% of eachother. Sounds like you have a burned valve or internal issue. Most cylinders should be 120+ PSI.

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but that sounds awfully like a vacuum leak. -Dom

I'm never one to advocate removing safety features from cars no matter how much of a tangled mess they make diagnosing. ABS has it's positives and it's negatives. But for the most part, it's worth it. -Dom

Well, that's one way to fix it... Glad you found the issue.

Sounds like a wheel balance issue to me based on speed.

Normally the tone ring (part of the hub assy) rots out and causes false ABS activation. Pull the wheel and brake rotor (if disc brakes) and look at the back of the hub. On the backing plate you should see the ABS sensor sticking through. There should be a toothed wheel that it's reading. If you spin the hub slowly look for a crack in the ring (looks like a deep gap) that the issue. A new bearing/hub assy will fix that and it's not too hard to replace. -Dominic

Hello all, It's been a while and I haven't really been in contact with many of you - However I need to pass along some very sad information to all of you. I was emailed this morning by Terry Haines daughter. She let me know that on February 11th, Terry passed away of a sudden coronary. There was a memorial on the 15th or 16th, but that's all the information I have at this time. The obituary can be seen here: http://www.frenchandrising.com/_mgxroot/page_10780.php?id=1591093 Again, Terry was a good friend to me - And a fellow enthusiast to all of us. There is a guestbook on the funeral home site that can be signed by friends. Thanks, -Dominic