BuckeyeSVT

Unfortunately most of my diagrams are broken up into multiple pages. What exactly are you having an issue with? If it's the early 1998 SVT harnesses with the PATS controller vs. the later 1998 models which were integrated into the PCM - That could be your issue. Do you have an E0 with the RJL1 controller, or the later E1 with the SFG0 controller? I've personally run into this before and corrected it in another harness. -Dominic

And people wonder why the imports last longer than domestics? Scheduled service, that's what. Brake fluid changes are every 30K on Toyota's and other vehicles (our age that is).

Besides, wheel cylinders cost around $14 each.. even less on RockAuto. Is it worth it to ride around with missing parts?

I believe the spring provides tension to keep the pistons pushed out. Without it, the pistons could be allowed to retreat further than designed which could cause the shoes to slide off of the piston slots and create a negative contact situation inside the drum.

IIRC there is a spring in the wheel cylinder. Most people lose them when rebuilding as most kits only include the inner pistons and outer seals. -Dominic

On the 1995, the V6 engines were equipped with a DIS-6 module for the spark. That module has a "SPOUT" plug which can be removed to remove advance from the ignition to check base engine timing. Normally the car needs to have the SPOUT plug in, in order to run correctly otherwise the ignition will always run in fixed timing mode. The SPOUT plug is a square plug that plugs into a connector normally taped to the harness connecting to the ignition module (right side rear engine compartment). -Dominic

Remove the steering column shrouds (Plastic) and remove the ignition electrical switch (on the other side of the key cylinder). Then you can manually turn the engine off until you get the key cylinder issue sorted. -Dominic

Code P1383 is due to the timing belt either not being installed correctly, or the VCT solenoid on the top of the cylinder head (plug is through the valve cover) malfunctioning. If you remove the electrical connector to the VCT solenoid and the idle smooths out and runs good - You have a timing belt issue where it's not installed correctly.

Issue is, is timing. Most 3.0L's are well over mileage that would be beneficial for swapping. I just did a swap earlier this year and I had to source an engine from Canada! Rebuilding the 2.5L SVT engine would be a good start if you want to keep it original looking. Otherwise, there are other options but they get expensive pretty quickly. Plus, with 180K the engine wiring harness is going to be one of your bigger issues.

For the amount of work involved - It wouldn't be worth it. You would need engine harnesses, computer, mounts, and a different transmission as the bellhousing on the 4cylinder is different than the V6 models. That means you would need to replace the transmission as well. By that time, you could buy a complete car and be ahead significantly. -Dominic

Welcome to FCO! Sorry to hear about your loss, changing the timing belt can be challenging for a novice but not impossible. I've dealt with plenty that had shredded belts and never had one have an internal issue from it. -Dominic

I agree, a malfunctioning MLP (Or Manual Lever Position) sensor can cause that to happen. It's not super hard to change, but requires removal of the battery to get to the sensor. -Dominic

-Dominic