BuckeyeSVT

Code P1383 is due to the timing belt either not being installed correctly, or the VCT solenoid on the top of the cylinder head (plug is through the valve cover) malfunctioning. If you remove the electrical connector to the VCT solenoid and the idle smooths out and runs good - You have a timing belt issue where it's not installed correctly.

Issue is, is timing. Most 3.0L's are well over mileage that would be beneficial for swapping. I just did a swap earlier this year and I had to source an engine from Canada! Rebuilding the 2.5L SVT engine would be a good start if you want to keep it original looking. Otherwise, there are other options but they get expensive pretty quickly. Plus, with 180K the engine wiring harness is going to be one of your bigger issues.

For the amount of work involved - It wouldn't be worth it. You would need engine harnesses, computer, mounts, and a different transmission as the bellhousing on the 4cylinder is different than the V6 models. That means you would need to replace the transmission as well. By that time, you could buy a complete car and be ahead significantly. -Dominic

Welcome to FCO! Sorry to hear about your loss, changing the timing belt can be challenging for a novice but not impossible. I've dealt with plenty that had shredded belts and never had one have an internal issue from it. -Dominic

I agree, a malfunctioning MLP (Or Manual Lever Position) sensor can cause that to happen. It's not super hard to change, but requires removal of the battery to get to the sensor. -Dominic

-Dominic

I know that with everything going on politically and with the Corona virus everyone is preoccupied with all that - But make sure you take a little time to enjoy the holiday and hopefully family! Stay safe, and healthy! -Dominic

Unfortunately with that type of issue, someone hands on is going to need to take a look at it. If it's been overheating (referenced by your removing the overflow reservoir cap) then low compression will cause the starting issues stemming from overheating and causing the head gasket to fail. Normally even with a blown gasket the engine can eventually be started, but performance will be poor and it will consume coolant internally as a result. -Dominic

Then check places that normally can cause issues (door seals, door drains at bottom of door). Both can cause water leak issues. Or, just grab a garden hose and have someone spray it hard while you are inside looking for leaks. -Dominic

I don't think they were ever popular enough to be made into quick struts. And also because the top mount on the front is pretty different from many other cars it probably makes it more difficult to mass produce unless a very high request was there - And I doubt they would sell very many these days. Removing the strut and using a good quality spring compressor and dismantle the strut assembly. That's the way I did it for years.

And my favorite overlooked item that can cause that symptom is the Impact switch in the side foot well. If activated (or if someone kicks it, the car will shut off and not start. Kicker is the fuel pump will not work and won't work even if replaced. I saw one before that the wires has gotten wet and rotted off of the bottom of the switch. I would check that as well as it can also cause those symptoms as well. -Dominic

Being that it's a 4 cylinder, are you sure it just ran out of gas? A broken timing belt can mimic the same issues and will kill the engine. Does it crank normally but not start? If it's backfiring that normally doesn't point to the fuel system but a quick check would be to see if you have gas coming to the engine by removing the fuel line (with a special tool you can purchase cheaply at the parts store) and finding out if you have fuel flow. Did you just put a pump in it or the whole module? -Dominic