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BuckeyeSVT

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Everything posted by BuckeyeSVT

  1. I know that with everything going on politically and with the Corona virus everyone is preoccupied with all that - But make sure you take a little time to enjoy the holiday and hopefully family! Stay safe, and healthy! -Dominic
  2. Unfortunately with that type of issue, someone hands on is going to need to take a look at it. If it's been overheating (referenced by your removing the overflow reservoir cap) then low compression will cause the starting issues stemming from overheating and causing the head gasket to fail. Normally even with a blown gasket the engine can eventually be started, but performance will be poor and it will consume coolant internally as a result. -Dominic
  3. Then check places that normally can cause issues (door seals, door drains at bottom of door). Both can cause water leak issues. Or, just grab a garden hose and have someone spray it hard while you are inside looking for leaks. -Dominic
  4. I don't think they were ever popular enough to be made into quick struts. And also because the top mount on the front is pretty different from many other cars it probably makes it more difficult to mass produce unless a very high request was there - And I doubt they would sell very many these days. Removing the strut and using a good quality spring compressor and dismantle the strut assembly. That's the way I did it for years.
  5. And my favorite overlooked item that can cause that symptom is the Impact switch in the side foot well. If activated (or if someone kicks it, the car will shut off and not start. Kicker is the fuel pump will not work and won't work even if replaced. I saw one before that the wires has gotten wet and rotted off of the bottom of the switch. I would check that as well as it can also cause those symptoms as well. -Dominic
  6. Being that it's a 4 cylinder, are you sure it just ran out of gas? A broken timing belt can mimic the same issues and will kill the engine. Does it crank normally but not start? If it's backfiring that normally doesn't point to the fuel system but a quick check would be to see if you have gas coming to the engine by removing the fuel line (with a special tool you can purchase cheaply at the parts store) and finding out if you have fuel flow. Did you just put a pump in it or the whole module? -Dominic
  7. Any sunroof? Windshield recently replaced? Water leaks can come from multiple areas but still look like they are coming from a different source.
  8. Easier? Maybe. Messier? Definitely...
  9. Normally it can be reached without removing the complete manifold. I've been able to reach it behind the manifold without removing it. It's a bugger, but it can be done. Most times once the manifold has been removed it may not seal correctly. A new gasket will be required once removed as it crushes on installation. In certain cases, the manifold has warped enough that once it's removed it will never seat back the same way. The only remedy there would be to either have a machine shop flat plane the manifold face which would allow it to seal or replace it entirely. -Dom
  10. Honestly timing belts on Contour 2.0L engines don't last more than 120,000 miles. During the process of the timing belt replacement there are certain elements (Camshafts) that need to be locked in place and the crankshaft needs to be set on a specific point. The VCT hub and sprocket requires loosening so the timing belt can be properly installed. Once the belt is installed and the tensioner set correctly - The VCT hub sprocket then gets tightened onto the camshaft locking in the adjustment. If this step is skipped, more often than not the timing will be off. The PCM monitors the crankshaft and camshaft positions and can tell when they are out of sync. This leads to VCT Advanced error codes. Sitting around won't affect the timing, so it could sit for 2 years and that won't cause the issues you are having. The only other thing I have found in the past is if the engine hasn't been maintained properly sludge can build up in the oil passages (can be seen through the oil fill cap). If you see sludge, chances are it will affect the VCT Solenoid operation and timing. Long story short - More than likely the timing belt has been replaced by someone who didn't follow the service manual instructions. This can lead to the Check Engine light on, and in some severe cases the engine running poorly. I've seen a lot of poor running engines from improper timing belt changes. Depending on your own skill, you may purchase a manual and check it yourself. Otherwise it will need to go to someone who understands and can check it for you. -Dominic
  11. Well, that's certainly a strange one. The door locks will cycle and you should see the lever inside go flat when it's unlocked. If the door doesn't open when the interior lock lever goes flat with the door handle it may be that the door is stuck - Or the latch is faulty. But both doors seems a little strange. Has this vehicle been sitting for a long while? Like years? Because the door seals may just be stuck to the door frames preventing the doors from opening. -Dominic
  12. Does the key turn in the lock cylinder? Are you using a remote or a tool to actuate the door locks? -Dominic
  13. Unfortunately the 2003 Escape cams won't work well. They are meant for an oval port intake and also are a different tooth pattern on the chain end which isn't compatible with your current chains or bottom crankshaft sprocket. -Dominic
  14. So, code 21 is for the RH front airbag sensor. It's in the right side kick panel next to the PCM. The code states the sensor is not bolted to it's bracket. DTC 21: SAFING SENSOR NOT MOUNTED TO VEHICLE PROPERLY 21-1 CHECK FOR DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE Turn ignition switch to RUN. Count diagnostic trouble code. Is Code 21 flashing? Yes No GO to 21-2 . READ the normal operation description for this diagnostic trouble code. DO NOT proceed with Pinpoint Test until the code is flashing! Failure to do so will result in needless replacement of the air bag system components and repeat service. 21-2 MEASURE RESISTANCE BETWEEN PIN C234-3 AND PIN C234-16 Turn ignition switch to OFF. Deactivate system (leave battery cables disconnected). Disconnect air bag diagnostic monitor. Measure resistance between Pin C234 , Circuit 91 (BK/R, ground and Pin C234 , Circuit 9 (BR/GN). Is resistance greater than two ohms? Yes No GO to 21-3 . REPLACE air bag diagnostic monitor. RECONNECT system. VERIFY system. REACTIVATE system. 21-3 MEASURE RESISTANCE IN CIRCUIT 9 (BR/GN) Disconnect RH kick panel safing sensor. Measure resistance of Circuit 9 (BR/GN) in the RH kick panel safing sensor connector to RH kick panel safing sensor sheet metal case ground. The sheet metal case ground must be bare and clean. Is resistance greater than two ohms? Yes No GO to 21-4 . LOCATE and SERVICE open in Circuit 9 (BR/GN). RECONNECT system. VERIFY system. REACTIVATE system. 21-4 MEASURE RESISTANCE TO GROUND Remove RH kick panel safing sensor and bracket from vehicle. Thoroughly clean the RH kick panel safing sensor mounting surface. Remount RH kick panel safing sensor and bracket. Measure resistance of Circuit 9 (BR/GN) in the RH kick panel safing sensor connector to RH kick panel safing sensor sheet metal case ground. Is resistance greater than two ohms? Yes No REPLACE RH kick panel safing sensor and bracket. RECONNECT system. VERIFY system. REACTIVATE system. RECONNECT system. VERIFY system. REACTIVATE system. Hope this helps. -Dominic
  15. Parts are hard to find even here in the states. Just comes with the territory of a 22 year old car. to FCO! -Dominic
  16. It's that time of season, snow or shine - It's Holiday season! Hope everyone has a great one from FCO!
  17. Have a great Turkey day! Try not to burn anything down while cooking the bird... -Dominic
  18. The length of the sensor lead may be an issue, but electrically they are the same. -Dominic
  19. Normally well before that age the IMRC usually dies and the secondaries fail to open which means no power on the highway. I was once passed by a stock Honda Civic when my secondaries were dead. I fixed that fast...lol. IMRC is the box on the front valve cover that connects by a cable to the lower intake manifold. It's not too hard to change, and easy to diagnose. They normally quit when the engine heats up and you can test by revving the engine up to 4,000 RPM. It should move the lever on the lower intake manifold if working correctly. If not, it's failed. That's the easiest thing that kills power - Then we move onto exhaust restrictions like converters failed and such. -Dominic
  20. to FCO! Lurk or join, glad to see you join! -Dominic
  21. It's been a while since I've had the opportunity to replace a failed differential. Does the car make any noise when in gear and the clutch is let out? Does the speedometer go up when in first gear and the throttle is applied lightly? Unfortunately most of the parts for these cars are discontinued and I don't see a listing for the differential available from Ford. Lots of parts are available for the automatics, but most of the parts for the manuals are gone. Perhaps sourcing a used transmission may be easier? -Dominic
  22. The weak point in these transmissions is the differential. If it goes, the transmission will feel like it will go in gear - But the car will not move. Sometimes you can put it in gear and the speedometer will show wheel speed as you are sitting still. The other issue is the pin in the shifter housing. Normally there is no snapping noise, and the shifter goes numb and loose between gears. -Dominic
  23. There is nothing really out there aside from custom tuning which runs $600-$800 and the gains are not impressive. Most people drop the 2.5L and install a 3.0L for more performance potential. However you are pretty late to that scene as the engines that are used for that transfer are already pretty much dried up. -Dominic
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