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BuckeyeSVT

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Everything posted by BuckeyeSVT

  1. Code P1383 is due to the timing belt either not being installed correctly, or the VCT solenoid on the top of the cylinder head (plug is through the valve cover) malfunctioning. If you remove the electrical connector to the VCT solenoid and the idle smooths out and runs good - You have a timing belt issue where it's not installed correctly.
  2. Issue is, is timing. Most 3.0L's are well over mileage that would be beneficial for swapping. I just did a swap earlier this year and I had to source an engine from Canada! Rebuilding the 2.5L SVT engine would be a good start if you want to keep it original looking. Otherwise, there are other options but they get expensive pretty quickly. Plus, with 180K the engine wiring harness is going to be one of your bigger issues.
  3. For the amount of work involved - It wouldn't be worth it. You would need engine harnesses, computer, mounts, and a different transmission as the bellhousing on the 4cylinder is different than the V6 models. That means you would need to replace the transmission as well. By that time, you could buy a complete car and be ahead significantly. -Dominic
  4. Welcome to FCO! Sorry to hear about your loss, changing the timing belt can be challenging for a novice but not impossible. I've dealt with plenty that had shredded belts and never had one have an internal issue from it. -Dominic
  5. I agree, a malfunctioning MLP (Or Manual Lever Position) sensor can cause that to happen. It's not super hard to change, but requires removal of the battery to get to the sensor. -Dominic
  6. I know that with everything going on politically and with the Corona virus everyone is preoccupied with all that - But make sure you take a little time to enjoy the holiday and hopefully family! Stay safe, and healthy! -Dominic
  7. Unfortunately with that type of issue, someone hands on is going to need to take a look at it. If it's been overheating (referenced by your removing the overflow reservoir cap) then low compression will cause the starting issues stemming from overheating and causing the head gasket to fail. Normally even with a blown gasket the engine can eventually be started, but performance will be poor and it will consume coolant internally as a result. -Dominic
  8. Then check places that normally can cause issues (door seals, door drains at bottom of door). Both can cause water leak issues. Or, just grab a garden hose and have someone spray it hard while you are inside looking for leaks. -Dominic
  9. I don't think they were ever popular enough to be made into quick struts. And also because the top mount on the front is pretty different from many other cars it probably makes it more difficult to mass produce unless a very high request was there - And I doubt they would sell very many these days. Removing the strut and using a good quality spring compressor and dismantle the strut assembly. That's the way I did it for years.
  10. And my favorite overlooked item that can cause that symptom is the Impact switch in the side foot well. If activated (or if someone kicks it, the car will shut off and not start. Kicker is the fuel pump will not work and won't work even if replaced. I saw one before that the wires has gotten wet and rotted off of the bottom of the switch. I would check that as well as it can also cause those symptoms as well. -Dominic
  11. Being that it's a 4 cylinder, are you sure it just ran out of gas? A broken timing belt can mimic the same issues and will kill the engine. Does it crank normally but not start? If it's backfiring that normally doesn't point to the fuel system but a quick check would be to see if you have gas coming to the engine by removing the fuel line (with a special tool you can purchase cheaply at the parts store) and finding out if you have fuel flow. Did you just put a pump in it or the whole module? -Dominic
  12. Any sunroof? Windshield recently replaced? Water leaks can come from multiple areas but still look like they are coming from a different source.
  13. Easier? Maybe. Messier? Definitely...
  14. Normally it can be reached without removing the complete manifold. I've been able to reach it behind the manifold without removing it. It's a bugger, but it can be done. Most times once the manifold has been removed it may not seal correctly. A new gasket will be required once removed as it crushes on installation. In certain cases, the manifold has warped enough that once it's removed it will never seat back the same way. The only remedy there would be to either have a machine shop flat plane the manifold face which would allow it to seal or replace it entirely. -Dom
  15. Honestly timing belts on Contour 2.0L engines don't last more than 120,000 miles. During the process of the timing belt replacement there are certain elements (Camshafts) that need to be locked in place and the crankshaft needs to be set on a specific point. The VCT hub and sprocket requires loosening so the timing belt can be properly installed. Once the belt is installed and the tensioner set correctly - The VCT hub sprocket then gets tightened onto the camshaft locking in the adjustment. If this step is skipped, more often than not the timing will be off. The PCM monitors the crankshaft and
  16. Well, that's certainly a strange one. The door locks will cycle and you should see the lever inside go flat when it's unlocked. If the door doesn't open when the interior lock lever goes flat with the door handle it may be that the door is stuck - Or the latch is faulty. But both doors seems a little strange. Has this vehicle been sitting for a long while? Like years? Because the door seals may just be stuck to the door frames preventing the doors from opening. -Dominic
  17. Does the key turn in the lock cylinder? Are you using a remote or a tool to actuate the door locks? -Dominic
  18. Unfortunately the 2003 Escape cams won't work well. They are meant for an oval port intake and also are a different tooth pattern on the chain end which isn't compatible with your current chains or bottom crankshaft sprocket. -Dominic
  19. So, code 21 is for the RH front airbag sensor. It's in the right side kick panel next to the PCM. The code states the sensor is not bolted to it's bracket. DTC 21: SAFING SENSOR NOT MOUNTED TO VEHICLE PROPERLY 21-1 CHECK FOR DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE Turn ignition switch to RUN. Count diagnostic trouble code. Is Code 21 flashing? Yes No GO to 21-2 . READ the normal operation description for this diagnostic trouble code. DO NOT proceed with Pinpoint Test until the code is flashing!
  20. Parts are hard to find even here in the states. Just comes with the territory of a 22 year old car. to FCO! -Dominic
  21. It's that time of season, snow or shine - It's Holiday season! Hope everyone has a great one from FCO!
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