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BuckeyeSVT

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Everything posted by BuckeyeSVT

  1. The internals are different on the SVT 2.5L Duratec engines. They have different pistons which give it the higher compression ratio that leads to better HP (170HP vs 195HP). Again, buy a good used instead of rebuilding if your choices are that poor. -Dominic
  2. Rebuilding normally does not cost that much, I've built forged engines for less than that.
  3. Since the classified section was not used, I may just create a forum for Buy/Sell. You're the first person to ask, so I may do that soon. Thanks!
  4. Upgrades? Honestly aside from a metal impeller water pump - There aren't many worthwhile upgrades for these engines.
  5. Honestly that's up to you. Unfortunately most of the 3.0L's are high in mileage anymore so a used engine is probably out of the question when it comes to 3.0L's. Depending on your area, you may be able to find a lower mile SVT engine (I found a 63K used 2.5L SVT (VIN G) engine in MN for $850). So the choice is yours to make, you can also go re-manufactured - But beware the cost will be substantial for the engine but everything will be refreshed and have a warranty on it.
  6. I will be working on the back end of the site and also updating the forum software to 4.4.1 from 4.3.6 we are on now. This will result in a little downtime here and there. I will try to work on this later tonight so the site is not down during peak visiting time. Thanks, -Dominic
  7. I only see a cutoff on the production date of 3/29/99. Before 3/29/99 is one style, From 3/29/99- is another style. You can call any Ford dealer service dept. and give them the VIN and they will give you the exact build date if you don't have it for reference. Since you are a 4/99 build you are in the after club on the cutoff date. -Dominic
  8. Stay away from the Gates kits, never had anything but issues especially with the included idlers and tensioners that come with the full kit.
  9. When the car is off, yes. It's a theft deterrent. -Dominic
  10. Wow, sounds like it's had some work done! Normally what happens is the speed sensor on the transmission shorts out (due to the wiring at the sensor end fraying and cracking) and the PATS system will lockout. This will cause a no-start condition. Basic symptom is flashing PATS light (Red light on the center dash plate that says "Contour" - That is unless you swapped it out for a clock). Speed sensors are cheap and removeal and installation are pretty simple. I would start by checking that first as it's quite common. -Dominic
  11. Welcome to FCO! The speed sensor (VSS) on the transmission can short out causing this and other issues. There are some examples floating around if you search. -Dominic
  12. to FCO! Don't be afraid to ask if you have a question. -Dom
  13. By your description it sounds like false ABS activation from a failed sensor ring (mainly the rear hub sensor ring cracks and causes sporadic ABS issues). If you have a scan tool it's easy to see what's going on. If not, I would suggest removing the rear 2 rotors and looking at the tone ring (it looks like a toothed gear around the back of the wheel hub). I can help with pics if you have any questions. -Dominic
  14. Sounds about right. I would just make double sure that the positive cables are well insulated to prevent any shorts and possible fire. -Dominic
  15. The box is held down with one 8mm bolt at the back and it has 2 tabs that slide into slots in the battery bracket. The DB has a harness coming out of it that may need to be pulled out for access. Normally, you can service the box without removing it entirely along as the battery is removed giving you space to get it free. -Dominic
  16. I think clearance is going to be your biggest issue getting to the 4 mount to subframe bolts. I normally service them when I drop the subframe, however there may be enough room to slide a 13mm in there to get the bolts loose. It won't be an easy job though with the firewall right up against the lower bolts. -Dominic
  17. Going into Christmas and then New Year - Just want to take a moment to say Happy Holidays from our family to yours!
  18. I'll look into the approvals, but I haven't gotten any in a while. Welcome to the site! -Dominic
  19. Unfortunately a parts yard (Pull-A-Part) or similar will be your best bet. Most parts have been obsoleted by Ford almost 10 years ago on that model. -Dominic
  20. Crank sensor wiring can fall apart way up the harness in places you wouldn't normally look. I normally replace the wiring from the connectors on the valve cover all the way to the sensor. Without a scan tool or an oscilloscope you won't be able to see what the sensors are doing aside from the wiring connections. Are you sure the 3 connectors at the valve cover are tight? They have a habit of breaking the locks and the connectors will vibrate apart causing the stalling you describe. Make sure you use two hands and press them very firmly together (sometimes the rubber seal inside will roll causing the connector to bind. It feels all the way together - But in reality it's not. -Dom
  21. That definitely sounds like you had an adventure! Welcome to the site!
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