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BuckeyeSVT

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Everything posted by BuckeyeSVT

  1. Normally, the airbag system will output a code through the airbag light by pulsing it. Quick and long pulses can be read for a code number. -Dominic
  2. On the 2.0L's there are 2 coolant sensors. One for the PCM (Engine controller ) and one for the gauge inside. The sender for the computer is normally on top of the thermostat housing. The temperature gauge sender is normally below the housing with a rectangular plug. -Dominic
  3. Using the service manual without the special service tools or training working on a system that contains low grade explosive charges in the frontal airbags is not a good idea. The airbag system works on resistance, the sensors and the airbags all work on resistance. Any tampering with the wires or connectors could cause other issues - Safety issues. The airbag system is pretty simple, but it's not something for the common DIY'er. You can choose to ignore this information - But it needs to be said to prevent something catastrophic in the future. -Dominic
  4. to FCO! NE Ohio here as well - If you need anything just ask. -Dom
  5. Normally a scan tool can do the diagnosing. There is no other method I would suggest to check the airbag system. It is self checking every key on cycle, so if the problem is fixed - the light will go out. -Dominic
  6. Well, I guess I'm shipping it to the yard as a core. Pity. -Dominic
  7. If you go with Dorman or a cheap aftermarket they will fail quickly. Sticking with OEM or Moog is a good way to go. There are no aftermarket bushings that I am aware of at this time. -Dominic
  8. I'm not aware of any manufacturers that rebuild differentials. All the aftermarket companies have dried up on parts and most parts are obsolete through Ford. Your best bet is a used transmission (would cost less anyways). Try http:\\www.car-part.com . They list quite a few transmissions available in the US used. -Dominic
  9. I have an engine that I am removing for a 3L swap that has 112K on it. The engine actually is in decent shape and runs good. Would be a waste to turn it in for a core when it will get scrapped. $100 for the engine covers the core charge. Any interested parties please PM me. Located near Canton, OH.
  10. Well, that's one route. The price isn't bad, as long as they stand behind it after installation.
  11. The internals are different on the SVT 2.5L Duratec engines. They have different pistons which give it the higher compression ratio that leads to better HP (170HP vs 195HP). Again, buy a good used instead of rebuilding if your choices are that poor. -Dominic
  12. Rebuilding normally does not cost that much, I've built forged engines for less than that.
  13. Since the classified section was not used, I may just create a forum for Buy/Sell. You're the first person to ask, so I may do that soon. Thanks!
  14. Upgrades? Honestly aside from a metal impeller water pump - There aren't many worthwhile upgrades for these engines.
  15. Honestly that's up to you. Unfortunately most of the 3.0L's are high in mileage anymore so a used engine is probably out of the question when it comes to 3.0L's. Depending on your area, you may be able to find a lower mile SVT engine (I found a 63K used 2.5L SVT (VIN G) engine in MN for $850). So the choice is yours to make, you can also go re-manufactured - But beware the cost will be substantial for the engine but everything will be refreshed and have a warranty on it.
  16. I will be working on the back end of the site and also updating the forum software to 4.4.1 from 4.3.6 we are on now. This will result in a little downtime here and there. I will try to work on this later tonight so the site is not down during peak visiting time. Thanks, -Dominic
  17. I only see a cutoff on the production date of 3/29/99. Before 3/29/99 is one style, From 3/29/99- is another style. You can call any Ford dealer service dept. and give them the VIN and they will give you the exact build date if you don't have it for reference. Since you are a 4/99 build you are in the after club on the cutoff date. -Dominic
  18. Stay away from the Gates kits, never had anything but issues especially with the included idlers and tensioners that come with the full kit.
  19. When the car is off, yes. It's a theft deterrent. -Dominic
  20. Wow, sounds like it's had some work done! Normally what happens is the speed sensor on the transmission shorts out (due to the wiring at the sensor end fraying and cracking) and the PATS system will lockout. This will cause a no-start condition. Basic symptom is flashing PATS light (Red light on the center dash plate that says "Contour" - That is unless you swapped it out for a clock). Speed sensors are cheap and removeal and installation are pretty simple. I would start by checking that first as it's quite common. -Dominic
  21. Welcome to FCO! The speed sensor (VSS) on the transmission can short out causing this and other issues. There are some examples floating around if you search. -Dominic
  22. to FCO! Don't be afraid to ask if you have a question. -Dom
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