Jump to content

BuckeyeSVT

Admin
  • Content Count

    6,843
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    34

Posts posted by BuckeyeSVT


  1. Honestly that's up to you. Unfortunately most of the 3.0L's are high in mileage anymore so a used engine is probably out of the question when it comes to 3.0L's. Depending on your area, you may be able to find a lower mile SVT engine (I found a 63K used 2.5L SVT (VIN G) engine in MN for $850). So the choice is yours to make, you can also go re-manufactured - But beware the cost will be substantial for the engine but everything will be refreshed and have a warranty on it.


  2. I will be working on the back end of the site and also updating the forum software to 4.4.1 from 4.3.6 we are on now. This will result in a little downtime here and there. I will try to work on this later tonight so the site is not down during peak visiting time.

     

    Thanks,

     

    -Dominic


  3. I only see a cutoff on the production date of 3/29/99. Before 3/29/99 is one style, From 3/29/99- is another style. You can call any Ford dealer service dept. and give them the VIN and they will give you the exact build date if you don't have it for reference. Since you are a 4/99 build you are in the after club on the cutoff date.

     

    -Dominic


  4. Wow, sounds like it's had some work done!

     

    Normally what happens is the speed sensor on the transmission shorts out (due to the wiring at the sensor end fraying and cracking) and the PATS system will lockout. This will cause a no-start condition. Basic symptom is flashing PATS light (Red light on the center dash plate that says "Contour" - That is unless you swapped it out for a clock). Speed sensors are cheap and removeal and installation are pretty simple. I would start by checking that first as it's quite common.

     

    -Dominic


  5. By your description it sounds like false ABS activation from a failed sensor ring (mainly the rear hub sensor ring cracks and causes sporadic ABS issues). If you have a scan tool it's easy to see what's going on. If not, I would suggest removing the rear 2 rotors and looking at the tone ring (it looks like a toothed gear around the back of the wheel hub). I can help with pics if you have any questions.

     

    -Dominic


  6. The box is held down with one 8mm bolt at the back and it has 2 tabs that slide into slots in the battery bracket. The DB has a harness coming out of it that may need to be pulled out for access. Normally, you can service the box without removing it entirely along as the battery is removed giving you space to get it free.

     

    -Dominic


  7. Crank sensor wiring can fall apart way up the harness in places you wouldn't normally look. I normally replace the wiring from the connectors on the valve cover all the way to the sensor.  Without a scan tool or an oscilloscope you won't be able to see what the sensors are doing aside from the wiring connections.

     

    Are you sure the 3 connectors at the valve cover are tight? They have a habit of breaking the locks and the connectors will vibrate apart causing the stalling you describe. Make sure you use two hands and press them very firmly together (sometimes the rubber seal inside will roll causing the connector to bind. It feels all the way together - But in reality it's not.

     

    -Dom

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.