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in Welcome / Introductions
Posted Saturday at 01:19 PM
Posted July 28
Posted July 24
Hey Nick! Wow, long time! Yeah, that Viper was cool when we had the meet in Boardman.. I had entirely too much fun in that car. Yeah, things have changed a little. I now have a toddler running around, still have an SVT Contour in my life and am still active on this site (even though it's mostly quiet around here for the most part). Facebook groups have pretty much made sites like these moot, and if there was a way to transfer the information here to one - I probably would. I pay the bills and keep the lights on just so us old-timer's can shout out to each other once in a while - Or ask a question and get a solid answer.
Glad to see an OG member stop back. It's few and far between anymore as most have moved on to other vehicles. Good to hear from you, and if you need something - Drop me a line.
in Under the Hood
Posted May 11
I would look for the Cougar one's they are easier to find as they ran until 2002 with the Bosch controller. The harness and the ABS unit are identical to the Contour and can be used with no issues. And if you find one with Traction Control, you can add that as well with just the dashboard switch after installing the unit.
in General Discussion
Posted April 29
Unfortunately most of my diagrams are broken up into multiple pages. What exactly are you having an issue with? If it's the early 1998 SVT harnesses with the PATS controller vs. the later 1998 models which were integrated into the PCM - That could be your issue.
Do you have an E0 with the RJL1 controller, or the later E1 with the SFG0 controller? I've personally run into this before and corrected it in another harness.
Posted March 23
And people wonder why the imports last longer than domestics? Scheduled service, that's what. Brake fluid changes are every 30K on Toyota's and other vehicles (our age that is).
Posted March 16
Besides, wheel cylinders cost around $14 each.. even less on RockAuto. Is it worth it to ride around with missing parts?
I believe the spring provides tension to keep the pistons pushed out. Without it, the pistons could be allowed to retreat further than designed which could cause the shoes to slide off of the piston slots and create a negative contact situation inside the drum.
IIRC there is a spring in the wheel cylinder. Most people lose them when rebuilding as most kits only include the inner pistons and outer seals.
Posted February 18
On the 1995, the V6 engines were equipped with a DIS-6 module for the spark. That module has a "SPOUT" plug which can be removed to remove advance from the ignition to check base engine timing. Normally the car needs to have the SPOUT plug in, in order to run correctly otherwise the ignition will always run in fixed timing mode.
The SPOUT plug is a square plug that plugs into a connector normally taped to the harness connecting to the ignition module (right side rear engine compartment).
Posted January 11
Remove the steering column shrouds (Plastic) and remove the ignition electrical switch (on the other side of the key cylinder). Then you can manually turn the engine off until you get the key cylinder issue sorted.
Posted November 14, 2020
Code P1383 is due to the timing belt either not being installed correctly, or the VCT solenoid on the top of the cylinder head (plug is through the valve cover) malfunctioning. If you remove the electrical connector to the VCT solenoid and the idle smooths out and runs good - You have a timing belt issue where it's not installed correctly.
Posted September 23, 2020
Issue is, is timing. Most 3.0L's are well over mileage that would be beneficial for swapping. I just did a swap earlier this year and I had to source an engine from Canada! Rebuilding the 2.5L SVT engine would be a good start if you want to keep it original looking. Otherwise, there are other options but they get expensive pretty quickly. Plus, with 180K the engine wiring harness is going to be one of your bigger issues.
Posted September 7, 2020
For the amount of work involved - It wouldn't be worth it. You would need engine harnesses, computer, mounts, and a different transmission as the bellhousing on the 4cylinder is different than the V6 models. That means you would need to replace the transmission as well. By that time, you could buy a complete car and be ahead significantly.
Posted August 25, 2020
Welcome to FCO!
Sorry to hear about your loss, changing the timing belt can be challenging for a novice but not impossible. I've dealt with plenty that had shredded belts and never had one have an internal issue from it.
I agree, a malfunctioning MLP (Or Manual Lever Position) sensor can cause that to happen. It's not super hard to change, but requires removal of the battery to get to the sensor.
Posted August 20, 2020
On 8/19/2020 at 2:04 PM, farmer said:
hello every one,2000 black contour svt just signed on,have a great day
hello every one,2000 black contour svt just signed on,have a great day
Posted July 9, 2020
in OT Forum
Posted July 4, 2020
I know that with everything going on politically and with the Corona virus everyone is preoccupied with all that - But make sure you take a little time to enjoy the holiday and hopefully family!
Stay safe, and healthy!
Posted June 8, 2020
Unfortunately with that type of issue, someone hands on is going to need to take a look at it. If it's been overheating (referenced by your removing the overflow reservoir cap) then low compression will cause the starting issues stemming from overheating and causing the head gasket to fail. Normally even with a blown gasket the engine can eventually be started, but performance will be poor and it will consume coolant internally as a result.
Posted June 7, 2020
Then check places that normally can cause issues (door seals, door drains at bottom of door). Both can cause water leak issues. Or, just grab a garden hose and have someone spray it hard while you are inside looking for leaks.
I don't think they were ever popular enough to be made into quick struts. And also because the top mount on the front is pretty different from many other cars it probably makes it more difficult to mass produce unless a very high request was there - And I doubt they would sell very many these days.
Removing the strut and using a good quality spring compressor and dismantle the strut assembly. That's the way I did it for years.
Posted May 27, 2020
And my favorite overlooked item that can cause that symptom is the Impact switch in the side foot well. If activated (or if someone kicks it, the car will shut off and not start. Kicker is the fuel pump will not work and won't work even if replaced. I saw one before that the wires has gotten wet and rotted off of the bottom of the switch. I would check that as well as it can also cause those symptoms as well.
Posted May 23, 2020
Being that it's a 4 cylinder, are you sure it just ran out of gas? A broken timing belt can mimic the same issues and will kill the engine. Does it crank normally but not start? If it's backfiring that normally doesn't point to the fuel system but a quick check would be to see if you have gas coming to the engine by removing the fuel line (with a special tool you can purchase cheaply at the parts store) and finding out if you have fuel flow. Did you just put a pump in it or the whole module?