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Darcy Bloomer

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About Darcy Bloomer

  • Birthday 09/08/1990

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  • Location
    Vancouver, BC

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  • Vehicle owned
    1999 Ford Contour SE V6
  1. Ok, thanks for your help and advice Mondeoman.
  2. I did email CTA motorsports as well, they said they don't deal with Addco, and don't have any stock on the BAT bar.
  3. I went to Chilliwack Ford with that number, they couldn't find the bar diameter, regardless it is discontinued. I went with a used 18mm bar from pick-a-part for $25. I used energy suspension graphite imbedded polyurethane bushings that I've had sitting on my spare parts shelf. I've driven over 600km since swapped and there is a definite noticeable handling improvement. I'm happy with this $35 upgrade(Bar & Bushings). With only a one millimeter increase in thickness, I wonder how much more a BAT or Addco bar could improve handling. Does anyone have experience with either? Also do either come painted and which colour? Thanks, Darcy
  4. My current 17mm bar is worn down to 15mm on the right frame to bushing location. Mounting points are all ok, just loud knocking is driving me crazy. I drive 210Km daily for school right now and would like to improve handling as well. It's too bad they're discontinued. I've been to two local auto dismantlers and looked at 33 contours, mystiques and cougars combined and there weren't any bigger than 18mm. I emailed BAT, they don't have any 21mm bars right now and don't know when they'll have any, they told me to try back in three months. I only have found one local supplier of addco 7/8" bar(lordco). They have to order direct from addco and it will take 8-10 weeks and cost $300. I'll try cta motorsports. Thanks.
  5. Does anyone know the part number for Ford 19mm rear stabilizer bar? Or have a car that has the rear 19mm bar stock?
  6. Hi Terry, I replaced the front right wheel bearing on Tuesday and now the car drives so smooth and quiet, I don't ever remember it being so quiet, also my fuel economy improved by 2mpg(at 29mpg-according to my mileage calculator app- on my last two tanks of gas since I changed the bearing, I hope it stays there)! Once I removed the steering knuckle/hub/bearing assembly it was very apparent it was a bad bearing, very rough feeling when spinning it. I must not have been able to feel this roughness on the axle because I had the resistance and noise of turning the differential gears and other wheel. Upon removing the bearing I found it was seized onto hub and knuckle. Half stayed in the steering knuckle and the outer bearing/inner race stayed on the hub. I had to melt the outer bearings' inner race off of the hub with an oxy/acetylene torch and when I pressed the bearing out of the steering knuckle, the outer race cracked(may have caught the edge of press table). I had trouble getting the hub splines back onto the axle splines(I did wire brush them and coat them with anti-sieze lubricant), I had to use a seperate 22mmx1.5 nut to pull the axle through the hub far enough to get the axle retaining nut started. In summary I officially hate these unitized/press-in bearings and hope I don't have to replace one again! Thank-You for your accurate diagnosis Terry! Much appreciated, ~Darcy
  7. that would be great if you could find it. Thanks, Darcy
  8. Hi, I found this partial TSB, does anyone have more info. on it? 2000 Ford Contour Suspension Service Bulletin 107380 NHTSA: Action Number: 630024 Service Bulletin Number: 107380 Report Date: Jan 01, 2002 Component: Suspension Summary: Some vehicles may exhibit a noise that appears to come from the front wheel bearings. *tt Thanks, Darcy
  9. Hi, I am hoping you can help me with diagnosing this issue. For about two weeks the symptoms my 1999 Ford Contour SE 2.5L, CD4E has been experiencing are: Road noise(sounds like tire noise fairly loud and definately noticable especially after turning to right then returning to center) starts at about 45km/hr and maintains loudness as speed increases. It is hard to tell, but I would say it is coming from the front because the steering wheel and turn signal stat vibrate slightly. Noise goes away completely in right turns then as I return to center steering position the sound comes back instantly. Sounds the same loudness and pitch in left and straight driving at any speed above 45km/hr. What I have checked (in this order): -I checked for abnormal tire wear patterns, there is slight heel-toe wear on outer edge on all four, did a tire rotation and 1000km later still no change in noise. -I have measured the front toe, which was zero. -I have check all four wheel bearings with three methods; Spun wheels while having one hand on corresponding strut/coil spring to feel for roughness, tried rocking top to bottom to check for end play, measured bearing end play with a dial indicator. All three checks showed no signs of wheel bearing wear. -I checked C.V./tripod joints by first grasping axle and trying to twist(to check outer joint) then by holding inner joints yoke and trying to twist(to check inner joint). Also obvious checks like checking c.v./tripod joint boot condition, axle retaining nut torque at 200ft/lbs. The only thing I'm not sure about is on the drivers side inner joints yoke(at differential output) I placed a prybar between subframe and yoke and was able to lift yoke up about 1/8", is this normal? I'm an apprentice commercial transport mechanic and have diagnosed and replaced many truck driveshaft components but have never had a cv driveshaft apart. I'm not sure how to check them other than the checks in my haynes manaul. Do you have any other tricks? I did(through google) find a partial TSB for Ford Contour as follows: 2000 Ford Contour Suspension Service Bulletin 107380NHTSA: Action Number: 630024 Service Bulletin Number: 107380 Report Date: Jan 01, 2002 Component: Suspension Summary: Some vehicles may exhibit a noise that appears to come from the front wheel bearings. *tt Do you have access to the full TSB or know how I can get access to the full TSB? Any ideas? I have googled my symptoms and it is often noted that when the noise goes away during right turn, the front right wheel bearing is shot. Is it possible that a wheel bearing can make this kind of noise when no end play or roughness felt with no load? Anyways I'm travelling over 1000km a week to apprentice training and would like to have this resolved asap. I'm not the kind of mechanic who likes to start throwing parts at a job hoping to resolve the issue, I like to have a thought out logical diagnosis. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Darcy
  10. Kleenflo Injector Kleen Part #695 went from 17-18mpg to a solid 27-28mpg with no change in driving habbits!, I must have had a plogged injector or something? For under $5 it worth a shot. Had tried several other brands of fuel injector cleaners with minimal results.
  11. Hey Red Rocket. If you have a multimeter..(or get one for cheap). Turn the ignition switch to ON position with ENGINE OFF. Shift into Reverse. Remove Reverse bulb from socket. Check for power at socket. If present, Replace Bulbs. If power is not present. trace wire back to reverse switch(in shifter console) check for power at plug.
  12. Check with dealer where it was installed?.. Search google for code 11 on pats? I googled code 11 on ford PATS found 11 No connection between module and transceiver coil 1. Check transceiver coil and wiring condition 2. Check engine ECU multi-plug connection Hope that can help. ~Darcy
  13. I ordered some 120 led 9005 bulbs for the high beam/daytime running lights. The problem is that they need full power and they don't work for the daytime running lights because there is not enough voltage to them. Does anyone know where the resistor for DRL is located? is it in the DRL Relay? is it a resistor wire? what does it look like. Thanks, Darcy
  14. Aww, that's a shame that it can't be adjusted. Thanks for letting me know! ~Darcy
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