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BloodyCar

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About BloodyCar

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada

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  • Vehicle owned
    1998 Contour SE 2.5L V6 188Km
  1. Also note that the glove compartment door doesn't come out the way the manual says it does, by pressing on the plastic, 3 screws are holding it on the bottom on the outside. I have put a few pictures into my gallery of the area. you can see the actuator, the blower, blower resistor? some vacuum connections and the vacuum canister.
  2. BloodyCar

    Heat, Blower, actuator, fan,

    Heat, Blower, actuator, fan, default to defrost.
  3. It took a few hours but discovered the problem. (same symptoms as yours) . vacuum canister on the driver side got disconnected. it's an arm that moves. you can see it when you switch the direction switch around.
  4. So at the end it was an electrical problem. I didn't have time for a new harness but when we were talking about it with a friend of mine he started cut the wires open and separate them just to look at them, he found the problem. Cause later I noticed (from the numbers) that there is no problem. I put the TPS back since I was running without one for the last 2 month and it is working since. 2+ weeks now. So the runaway car problem is solved !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sure I got P0136 and P0171 now, but at least the engine is operating more efficiently now and I still have to coat or wrap all those wires since I don't know which was the short, but I think it was a big step ahead.
  5. BloodyCar

    Error Codes

    New codes P0136, P0171.
  6. So how about some readings? I know I have a different vehicle, 2.5L V6 auto, but I would still like to know a few readings by different reader. I have a Maxitrip. about the same cost. so, TPS at idle? LOD (engine load) at idle? MAP?
  7. I sprayed the MAF sensor but that didn't help. However I noticed on my Maxitrop that the LOD (engine load) number is changing as well as the TPS. The TPS number goes doen from idle 18.4 to like 11 and such. I know that will cause problem (shifting is one of them) and the LOD number goes up and down too. Should be around 20 when idle. It can go up to 90. (maybe about half gas) I even noticed after start, idleing around 800, with TPS at 18.4, LOD was 90! The only problem is I don't know if TPS causing LOD increase and thus gas adjustment, or it thinks the load is high, thus uses TPS to adjust the gas. Any suggestions? No money to swap computer or wiring harness :)
  8. It started again. Haven't done anything , just noting the time.
  9. The repair manula no help. Somehow, the panels don't want to come off. I took the weather strip, but what kind of clips are those on the top panel? Is the top one comes out first or the bottom? etc. I am pulling but that soft plastic seem to be breaking.
  10. Did you look at my pictures? :)
  11. So the first thing I did 3 days ago is got an MAF cleaner spray $11. Cleaned it and drove it a while later. For the first 15min it looked like it made a difference but then the problem came back. Since I was still suspicious of the TPS, I decided to take it off and see if I turn it, what I get on me Trip live gauge device. I took the TPS off but it was still connected. Started the car and it was running. the gauge showed 6.4 (it would show a bit more when it's attached, because of that little turn you have to do). I guess that would be around 10, since that's the lowest I saw so far. By the way, If you turn the TPS, nothing happens. So I went for a drive like that. It was running fine. This makes me question what that thing is doing. This is while the AIC was disconnected. So connected the AIC. Everything is still ok. So I reattached the TPS but unconnected it. So the gauge would show zero. Still works fine. (by that I mean drive it for a while since my problem is while the car is moving not idle) So I reconnected the TPS and drive it home. So at this point everything is connected and in the last 2 days the car finally drive fine. I am very happy because other than one hard shift down as a stepped on it, the transmission seem to be working well. However it may not last forever so the next time it is doing this I will be ready to jump and disconnect the TPS to see if that is the problem. The IAC is clearly the means to the problem but not the cause. It either the TPS sensor, wires, or the computer. I am not touching it as long as it is running. :)
  12. Thanks. I figured out most of this when I changed it the first time and since I messed around with it 2 days ago I will add a few things I learned. There is no way to put this on the wrong way. Not unless you break it if that's possible. The reason is, it will only turn one way. You can put a screwdriver in it to turn, but it is going very easy in way and I didn't push it hard the other way. The way I put it on is, I put it on (offset to the screw-hole) and tried to turn it to the hole. If it didn't go, I pulled it off and tried it the other way. The other thing I found it is you can drive without the TPS attached, or attached but unplugged. If it is connected but not attached there is a small value fed to the computer . 6.4 on mine. There is a bit more in the next post.
  13. In the mean time I have been driving it with the IAC disconnected and I have noticed that the reported TPS number doesn't make sense. I have one of these maxiTrip readers with the gauges. I don't know what the number means and since it probably depends on the pot it may not be the same as yours. However, if someone could give me some readings, I would appreciate it. I have around 18.4 during idle. The problem is sometimes this number drops to below 10. So is it misreported? Read correctly and the replacement TPS is gone again? By the way, it used to be 18.4 when it was stuck and revving at 3000rpm too.
  14. I also checked to see if it switches. It does. It seemed for a while spraying was helping, but now I don't know. Haven't got it off yet.
  15. So far I have sprayed it with air-intake/throttle cleaner a few times, no help. Measured the resistance, seem to be ok.
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