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rkneeshaw

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About rkneeshaw

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/30/1980

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    http://www.ryankneeshaw.com/contour
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  • Location
    Petoskey, MI
  1. Has anyone successfully installed a SVT PCM or ECU into a pre-98 contour? What about a regular 98 contour? If I were to use a E0 SVT PCM it would not have PATS so that wont be a problem. What I am not sure of is if the pinouts changed between 97 and the E0 98s. Disclaimer: unfortunately its hard to search for info on this topic if you have to use more than 4 letters in your search so I apologize if this has been covered, my search results were far from successful.
  2. Those pics and explanation help a TON, thank you!
  3. I really like the power the BAT Y-pipe and SVT exhaust gave my car. Definately a good feeling in the old "butt dyno".
  4. Good news! its fixed! Passenger side drive shaft's inner CV joint seems to have grenaded itself and shot something through the boot, spitting grease everywhere down there. Swapped out the shaft, and the car drives GREAT!!! wooot!
  5. I'm going to be swapping out these drive shafts again this weekend. They were new rebuilt shafts from Autozone that we installed when swapping out the trans. I drove the car for about an hour or two before the vibration started. A couple guys I talked to have said its not too uncommon for rebuilt driveshafts/CV joints to go pretty quickly, and sometimes you have to try a few before you get a good set!! So, this weekend, we'll see if I can luck out and get a good set I'll know more this Saturday night
  6. If it is the drive shafts, how could I tell which one of the two was the culprit?
  7. Got the subframe bolted back up, had a local shop help out. They got to the nut in there and it had just spun loose, just like you said Terry. My problem with the vibration is a little better, but definately still there, especially around 40MPH. It would be hard to beleive a drive shaft has gone bad already, but I guess it is possible. Any other thoughts? I mean jeez, the only thing I can think of is it's either motor mounts, something inside the trans, or the driveshafts. Those seem like the ONLY components that could cause these symptoms, right?
  8. Oh cool, so it's just a bit of carpet to pull back, and cut through some sound deadening material and you can get at it? Phew, that makes me feel better Any idea what ft-lbs those drive shafts should be tightened to? I can't locate my Haines manual... The buildup went pretty smooth except for the subframe bolt threading out. The airgun wasn't that strong, we ended up tightening the drive shaft bolts by hand, but didnt torque them down, I think we overlooked that.
  9. I'll double check motor mounts again although both are brand new. Only the trans was pulled, not the engine. If it was a motor mount, wouldn't I notice the vibration even when I rev the engine without the trans engaged? I fitted a new RAM clutch with the install which is breaking in nicely One detail I forgot to mention was/is a missing subframe bolt When we went to bolt the front subframe back up, the last bolt, passenger side, rear bolt, de-threaded. The bolt is fine, but the threads in the frame it bolts to are toast. I have the car at a shop right now to heli-coil (sp?) it and try to get something in there to hold it. But anyway, I drove the car home (4 hour drive) with just the three bolts holding up the subframe :/ it was thought that wouldnt' cause these symptoms though, but I guess thats why I'm posting, to get more opinions. The other three bolts on the subframe bolted up good and tight. Our airgun wasnt' the strongest though, so thats why I was wondering if not tightening up the driveshaft bolts would've caused one of hte new shafts to not sit quite right? Oh, and the vibration is independant of engine RPM. It's only relative to the speed I'm moving. I tried this: shift to 4th at about 40 MPH, got the vibration, shifted to 3rd at 40MPH, had the vibration at the exact same intensity level. She smooths out a bit around 80MPH+ but I didnt have the guts to go faster than 95 :sick
  10. Background: Replaced transmission with a MTX-75 with Quaife that was rebuilt by TH. During the installation, we replaced the front and rear motor mounts with SVT units and installed the ES inserts. Also, I had a torn boot on both drive shafts, so we replaced both drive shafts with new units from Autozone. First 60 minutes or so of driving from the garage was fine, no vibrations at all, smooth as silk. Everything seemed great! And my 3rd gear synchros where fixed!!! weeeeee! But then..... Symptoms: Vibration only under accelleration. If I coast while in gear, no vibration. The only time I have the vibration, and its heavy at times (usually ~35MPH), is when I'm applying throttle and the wheels are being given pressure to move the car. I'm wondering if we didnt tighted the nuts on the end of the drive shafts tight enough? Shoot, I'm really stumped to be honest. Anyone have any ideas or insights? TH?
  11. 99blacksesport, did you get this resolved? I have the same exact problem. Just yesterday we replaced my transmission with a rebuilt unit with Quaife from TH, installed new motor mounts, and new drive shafts. It was fine coming out of hte garage, but after about an hour of driving these symptoms appeared. I'd be shocked if it was a bad driveshaft, both of mine are brand new! Anyway, I'm trying to solve the same problem. Any info would be great!
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