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Terry Haines

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Everything posted by Terry Haines

  1. ...broken clock spring wire in steering wheel ?..Does the horn work?
  2. Sounds like a possible wire harness/plug/connection issue..
  3. Not sure on the specs for this but the most common fault of the 4 cyl fans is usually one or both of the fan relays.The temp gauge sensor does not affect the fans,only the two wire EEC sensor controls fans via EEC.
  4. Sorry for delay being on site.We are almost set up in our new location so I hope to be back in the shop soon...working on MTX75's.
  5. ...pinch the hose to the IAC with engine running...does the noise stop/change?
  6. A used part is all I could suggest. The vac unions are removed by pressing down the plastic collar to release the union...spray with lube first as there is an O ring below that plastic collar that grips the union..
  7. I'd suspect a wiring/harness issue...Contours are prone to harness damage inside the looms.
  8. Friction mod additive was used in the early days of the MTX75 when the spec was ATF. Those days are gone and lube has moved forward since then.The MTX75 needs only a GL3/GL4 type lube and straight honey fits that bill. Many other car owners use it,Mazda Miata etc springs to mind. It's good lube all round.
  9. The MTX75 should not have ANY additives. The Ford honey is all that should be used.No snake oil as most all affect the syncro operation and life.The MTX75 does not lend itself to power shifts...The design is showing it's age Vs later designs.Thick oil does NOT make the syncros work better..they work slower.Syncros need to wipe the oil off the cone clutches to bite and 'syncro' the gears..Too thick takes longer to wipe and bite the syncros to speed up..
  10. Rear part of trans case should be a 3/8 square drain plug. Common method is drain,refill,run a while and do the same again..This is about the only way you can do it on a CD4E.
  11. The large round housing at the end of the trans case is the pump.As for the filter,it cannot be replaced unless the trans is removed and stripped down. It is not a normal service item on the CD4E..
  12. I would advise against it. Running on 5 cyls is not a good idea. You should be able to find a shop that can put in an insert for the spark plug thread.
  13. Remove all the spark plugs and turn engine by hand so that the bad cylinder piston is close to TDC...look down hole with flashlight..'if' you see anyting..1)Try a thin magnet on a stick..if the metal of the plug is there it may pick it up ..2)If not then a thin hose taped to a shop vac and try to vac out the pieces..best I can advise..
  14. I'd start by re checking cam belt timing as that seems to be the last major job that was done and 'could' be the issue..
  15. The 'pin' holds in the ally drive carrier into the trans..leave it where it is but unscrew the black plastic speed sensor from the top of the ally housing..
  16. If the leak is from a large type of steel freeze plug then this is the servo piston spring cap..It does have an O ring but,as you say, it is spring loaded and not easy to replace the seal. Usual problem is that the steel 'cup' becomes rusty and the seal can fail...Am I on the correct part/area here ?
  17. ...most auto parts stores re NAPA etc should be able to X ref the part number.
  18. OK, after the bolt is out you need to spray all round the sensor with some PB Blaster..They stick on the 'o' ring seal..be patient and after a while try to rotate the sensor just a little each way, if you can move it a little the spray a bit more PB Blaster and use two levers to try and pull it out the housing..take care not to break it off..
  19. Don't happen to have a pic do you?..The auto sensor is not the same as manual..from memory!!
  20. 9 out 0f 10 turbo and blower builds for the Contour fail because the initial CR is too high. Dynamic CR is very important so you need the data from the cam..
  21. The early rod shift gear stick is hollow..it has a spring loaded cable inside it..The plastic collar is held onto the cable with a roll pin that goes thru the cable and collar...when the collar and roll pin are lifted it pulls the cable up and unlocks reverse. The only way to remove the lockout cable is to remove the stick from its lower housing and remove the cable assy from inside the stick...
  22. I have always been able to fit the filler tube after the tank is in place...but have to watch the slide in seal and lock of the tube to the tank..bit of lube on the filler neck where it goes into tank seal helps..There was a design change at one stage but I assume all parts match those that came off..
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