Low beam headlamp
9006SU Silverstar ULTRA for Ultra Night Vision - The Whitest and Brightest Halogen
9006ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
9006XV XtraVision Halogen - The Brighter Light
9006CB Cool Blue Halogen - The Whiter Light
High beam headlamp
9005SU Silverstar ULTRA for Ultra Night Vision - The Whitest and Brightest Halogen
9005ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
9005XV XtraVision Halogen - The Brighter Light
9005CB Cool Blue Halogen - The Whiter Light
Front turn signal
Rear turn signal
High mount stop light
893ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
6418LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp
Back up light
1156LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp
168LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp
168LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp
I thought I'd pin this part of the other post for future reference for all...
..this is worth a read,written by Dave Mann, it explains why most who fit new rotors still have vibration!!
..AUTOMOTIVE BRAKING SYSTEMS- ROUGHNESS AND VIBRATION
One of the most common brake system customer vehicle performance complaints is brake
roughness, pulsation and vibration. As common as this complaint is very few people, including
many service technicians, actually understand the true cause of it and what to do to correct it
permanently. This leads to misdiagnosis, unnecessary repairs and parts replaced and the likely
re-occurrence of the problem a short time later. Brake roughness can be defined as vibration that
is felt in the steering wheel, brake pedal and/or seat during vehicle braking. This does not
include the normal pulsation that occurs when anti-lock brakes are activated during a panic stop
or when on wet, snow or ice covered roads, which can activate the anti-lock brakes.
What typically happens is the customer experiences this type of vibration and pulsation and
thinks something is wrong with their brakes and then takes their vehicle into a repair facility.
The customer explains the problem and the repair facility technician or service writer either takes
the vehicle out for a test drive to confirm the symptoms or pulls it into the shop and starts right in
on the brakes. Then they come out to the customer and inform them that their brake rotors are
"warped" and they need new rotors and pads (and sometimes hubs), or they can machine the
rotors on their bench lathe if there is enough rotor material remaining to meet the manufacturers
minimum thickness requirements.
The problem with this diagnosis and repair procedure is that first of all is that brake rotors do
not warp. The second problem is that replacing a brake rotor with a new brake rotor or
machining the rotor on a bench lathe will only fix the problem temporary. The problem will
almost always re-occur after a period of time, thus necessitating further repairs. Brake rotor disc
thickness variation or excessive lateral runout, as well as drums that are out of round can cause
vibrations and pulsations in the brake pedal and/or steering wheel. Brake lining material transfer
onto the rotor can also have an effect on this as well.
Here's what really occurs: all brake rotors and hubs have an associated Lateral Runout (LRO).
LRO occurs when two axes are not parallel to each other, such as the axes of the rotor and the
hub or the spindle and the rotor/hub. LRO may be caused by manufacturing tolerances,
improperly torqued wheel nuts (uneven or excessive torque), corrosion between the brake rotor
and the hub, hub with excessive runout, worn or improperly adjusted wheel bearings or any
damage or wear. This is what is commonly referred to as "warped" rotors. These so called
"warped" rotors do not in and of themselves cause the vibrations and pulsations. Any machined
component, such as brake rotors and hubs, are going to have manufacturing tolerances, which
include runout. Typical original equipment new rotor runout specifications are in the range of
0.0015-0.002 in. while low quality aftermarket rotors can be significantly higher. In addition to
excessive manufacturing tolerances, cheap, low quality aftermarket rotors can have increased
impurities and porosity in the metallurgy. I recommend using either the OEM rotors or a high
quality aftermarket rotor.
New rotors and hubs are machined to precision tolerances from the auto manufacturers.
Aftermarket rotors and hubs are usually not machined to the same tolerances, as the aftermarket
manufacturers do not know the OEM specifications, although some are much better than others.
Auto manufacturers will either match mount the rotor and hubs or machine the rotor on the hub
unit as an assembly. Match mounting is matching up the low spot on the brake rotor with the
high spot on the hub. This match mounting process minimizes the runout ofthe assembled
components, but is only a production process. A service technician cannot effectively determine
where the high and low spots are in order to match' mount the components. Machining the rotor
on the hub (and/or spindle) with the proper on-vehicle machining equipment is the very best
method and almost completely eliminates runout. But, if they do not effectively prevent rust and
corrosion in the joint, over a period of time it will induce runout and eventually brake roughness.
What can occur over a period of time is that whatever runout is in the system coupled with
improperly torqued wheel nuts and/or misadjusted or loose wheel bearings and rust and
corrosion forming between the rotor and hub surface leads to increases in runout. As you drive
your vehicle without using the brakes, such as on the highway, every rotation of the rotor high
spot or multiple high spots contacts your brake linings in the caliper, even when you are not
using the brakes and wears the high spot or multiple high spots offthe rotor which causes a thin
spot or multiple thin spots. Over a period of time this repeated process causes what is called
Disc Thickness Variation (DTV). DTV is when the rotor thickness is not the same all the way
around the rotor. DTV is typically caused by lateral runout. DTV can only be measured with
very specialized laboratory testing equipment or with special on vehicle capacitance probes.
When you apply your brakes, and a brake rotor has DTV, the thick and thin spots on the rotor
cause the brake pads to move in and out. This in-and-out pad motion causes increases and
decreases in brake system pressure, which the driver can feel in the brake pedal. This in-and-out
pad motion causes a varying brake force, which is passed to the steering wheel. As the rotor gets
hot, it is much more likely to increase thickness variation, thus increasing pedal pulsations as
well as steering wheel and other vehicle vibrations. This phenomenon is what many technicians
refer to as "warping", however they actually think the rotor warped and needs replacement.
Typical acceptable values for DTV are around 0.0004 in. That's 4 ten thousandth\9! an inch! As
DTV increases beyond 0.0004 in., brake pedal, steering wheel and vehicle vibrations and
pulsations will almost always occur.
Replacing a rotor with excessive DTV with another new rotor will only correct the problem
temporarily, because eventually the associated LRO with the new rotor will lead to DTV over a
period of time, and the problem repeats itself all over again. Machining a rotor with excessive
DTV on a bench lathe will only temporarily correct the problem because the rotor is being
machined true to the bench lathes spindle and not the spindle on the car, plus the spindle on the
bench lathe has its own runout.
The correct method is to machine the brake rotor on the vehicle using an on-vehicle brake lathe.
For applications where the rotor is separate from the hub (loose rotor) make certain that both
surfaces are free of rust and corrosion and be sure to put a thin layer of nickel anti-seize on the
mating surfaces. This will prevent rust induced increases in LRO over a period of time. Rust can
form in-between the mating surfaces and exert tremendous forces which will cause increases in I
tension of the wheel studs and resulting clamp load variation which creates LRO. The LRO will
then eventually lead to DTV, brake roughness and vibration. For vehicles with adjustable wheel
bearings, be certain to properly adjust the bearing preload prior to machining the rotor.
NO BOSCH PLUGS!!!...These engines have a 'wasted spark' ign system...each bank does not spark to ground as conventional systems...which is why you need double plat..Ford develop,grade and make their own plugs so stick with M/craft double plats!!!
The coil pack has THREE coils that fire SIX plugs...each end of the coil fires a plug and one end is '+' ground,the other is '-' ground ....so direction of spark on one bank is GROUND STRAP on the plug to center electrode...metal can be 'moved' during spark and single plats will wear more on one bank...Ign Engineering 101 !!!
Only the V6 SVT 2.5 had the intake manifold internal polished by the abrasive slurry method to smooth the flow. The info on the syncros is VERY wrong. Early Ford MTX75's had a 'twin blocker' on 3rd gear, later MTX75's went to a single blocker. A single blocker is LESS efficient than a twin. This was a mechanical 'downgrade' NOT an up grade. For Ford it was just a cost save as the single blocker used was the same as 4th & 5th gears. And cost less than the 'unique' twin used on 3rd.
...drain trans and try to find a small magnet that is on a flex type pick up tool and fish for the bolt head.IF you don't find it I advise you DON'T DRIVE THE CAR as we have seen many ho have damaged the whole trans with the broken bolt head...next would be trans out and try to see if can be shaken out of the trans..next would be..if stuck in case...trans opened up etc..
To all MTX owners..consider our 'Keyed Tower' mod...Don't wait for the bolt to go.
OK, this subject Re front strut swaps,has been covered before but I will restate the main issue owners have with strut replacement.
The front spring/strut assy's has TWO nuts to consider in a swap. NUT ONE is the one you see with the hood up.This one holds the whole strut/spring assy tight up into the inner fender.It clamps down on the metal/rubber cup . NUT TWO is the one UNDER the cup that holds the spring compressed.This is a SPECIAL FORD NUT and MUST NOT be thrown away on a strut swap.It is thinner than NUT ONE. Most all owners fit the nuts in the WRONG PLACE when they swap struts.Example , the new nut you get with a strut is NUT ONE..and MUST NOT be used in NUT TWO location..It is too thick/tall and will hold off the cup, be it a stock cup or a camber kit cup, too high and it WILL NOT GRIP THE INNER FENDER and will cause the strut NOT TO BE CLAMPED AND RATTLE IN THE FENDER.
This is a common fault with DIY owners. PLEASE PAY ATTENTION to YOUR NUTS when you swap struts..Pics below explain more...
...very little gain at all. Conical filters too close to the MAF disrupt sensing airflow, which is why the SVT set up has a mesh before the maf to prevent this....and the worst is open filters that just draw air from under the hood..hot air!!
Most owners fit CAI because of the roar and noise..!! Yet to see a before and after set of dyno numbers that proves a CAI on a Contour works!!
...if you can get your hands on the Ford dealer shop manual that has the full check process and you can follow it then that would be the way to go. These tests include the electrical and pressure and function test...would need to hook up test kit with gages etc to the points on the trans. The CD4e can suffer with runaway line pressure, broken welds on bands, bad valve body ,bad converters..just so many things that can cause the O/D light to flash..I'd be nuts to say 'just try this'...because after we had gone thru 5 or 6 lots of 'try this' you would still not be at the problem...The full Ford test procedure is the only way to go...
The flap valve on the MVP operates a bit like the same valve used on Lincoln 3.0 and Jag V6's...It is not a true secondary as in the Contour V6 intakes and does not open a port..it increases the intake manifold plenum area, bit like the Focus SVT 'tumble' unit on its plenum.I suppose it's possible to have the flap valve control by the EEC as the flap is a stepper motor a bit like the Contour unit. Would have no idea how to wire into the circuit..Maybe others who have used the MVP engine have worked it out...
Vac to heater mode switch is via a grey vac line thru firewall from engine..On drivers side to right of steering wheel..under dash..look up and you should see the vac diaphragm that operates door etc. Fuse for mode switch is in the central junction box in footwell drivers side F23. Cigar lighter is F27
..all you need to do is to check by eye that the clearance around that oversize hole is even with the stud as you use other nuts to hold the manifold in place. It is not a critical to have the plastic sleeve that melts....