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About eliteman76

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    Land of Corn, Nebraska

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  • Vehicle owned
    1999 Contour SE V6 ATX
  1. I can testify simply adding an SVT box to a standard SE V6 made a bit of difference. I reused my stock MAF as I didn't want to use the SVT MAF and bother screwing things up on my PCM. I loved the sound from the SVT airbox as well under hard pulls. I will admit my solution was white trash...I used a piece of sheetmetal that I rolled to connect the fenderwell air duct into the SVT air box. I'm parting/selling the car right now if anyone wants it. Would rather have it go to a good car than crushed and gone at a you-pull-it yard. As before I don't get my messages/notifications from here for some stupid reason. call/text 4O2-2I3-I449 if you think you might want it. **edit, this does have a K&N filter with it
  2. Well, we were 168K before the wife totalled the car last week. We have had Ford service the car since we bought around 2001 for oil changes. Depends on how much noise to be honest. I could see guide set being worn. It's a PITA to get at things though. If the engine is out, go for it. In the car, you have fun with that
  3. There had been a good amount of info on the old CEG.com site with headers, I foget who was doing them. I was seriously contemplating just getting some pipe bent, and fabing headers using the OEM flanges off my V6. I was considering doing a engine trans swap on my drivetrain into another shell after my wife totalled our car on 11-21. As far as the exhaust, these are still a smaller displacement motor. You are not boosting it with a turbo, etc, so, you need to consider staying conservative on exhaust size. On my Torino, I am running a mild combination of a 351 cleveland with long tube headers, and a full 2.5 inch dual exhaust. I could have gone three, but no point as it's a mild moderately cammed engine with a smaller carbertor and highway gears for now until I can afford a 6 speed conversion. On a 2.5, I forget factory size, but personally, I would run maybe a 2.5" main pipe, and split off at the bumper. You need to still have some back pressure for the engine to run properly. Too bad you are not closer, I have a low-mile SVT exhaust hanging in one of my sheds I never had a chance to install.
  4. I have a pair of brand new mounts in the box. They were around $100 for the pair from Advanced Auto Parts when I bought them about a year ago.
  5. If you need the rear arms, let me know. I'm selling/parting my 99 that was wrecked on 11-21
  6. I'd deffer to the swap over as I've not done it on a contour, but with that said the basics are typically needing to make sure the brake mastercylider is correct, and the proportioning valve. I can't confirm on these cars, but with the older cars I am used to working on like the 72-76 Ford Torino and varients, coverting to disc isn't bad provided the master cylinder is correct, you swap out the proportioning valve, install flex lines to the rear calipers, etc. These cars in the early 70's rarely had ABS from the factory, so there wasn't that issue. If you have ABS, I would consider seeking out another ABS car for the specific parts. If it was me, I'd just go to a you-pull-it yard, and take a cordless sawzall, cut the rear arms, and pull the complete spindle/strut assembly off a donor vehicle.
  7. eliteman76

    rear spoiler

    Well, if you need a 98+ with Ford spoiler, let me know...I'm in Omaha, NE though, not sure where you are located. My wife totalled the car on 11-12 and I am selling/parting it.
  8. Lost a rear spring about a year and a half back on our 99. I was like hmm. Car seems low. Some of my fat freinds were in the back {Seriously, not making fun, just saying, my 290 pound ass, plus a 400# buddy, add in a bunch of stereo crap and BOOM lowrider Anyways, spring had broke once. When I pulled it out, discovered it was broken in one more place up by the hat.
  9. Sad but true, but our car got wrecked, and basically totalled. We didn't have full coverage so we are SOL...wife and I were talking and we are going to miss or Contour. Fun little road rocket. I ended up tearing into it a bit over thanksgiving and after hitting a powerpole, she is done. Engine and trans are fine, but the right strute tower got pushed into the firewall. Broke the ac heater stuff under the dash! Anyways, RIP, was a fun time. I tossed the car online, but any members here might need something, let me know. I don't ever seem to get my emails or notifications from here, so if you want, call/text me 4O2-2I3-I449. I just would rather have the good parts go to other Contour owners vs crushed at a junk yard, but I can't hold onto the car forever, either.
  10. Well, as it turns out, the fuse panel had melted on the car. Scary part was it was still running, driving, but after pulling the fuse panel and harness section off another car, splicing, and putting back together, no issues. The original fuse panel off our car was pretty much a mess. I'm really surprised the car still had power frankly. I love my Fords...but this was a bit of a surprise for me. Also, in my search in a local u-pull-it yard, I noticed 3-4 other contours with the same issue. Harness was melted/burnt.
  11. Curious is anyone else here has had re-occoring issued of the harness plugging into the fuse panel melting/burning on them? Our '99 SE V6 has killed the main power plug 2 times now. It's pulled an extreme amount of current as at least 3" of the red insulation is gone. My wife drives the car most of the time, and she tends to drive around with the ac or heat blasting away on high. This is no different than my old Torino if used on high a lot it tends to pull so much current it burns the switch up and melts the connector. Does anyone know of a source for the plugs, if that section of harness is available? I am not excited about running to the junk yards around here as last time, it took 8+ contours before I found a usable plug.
  12. OK, so here is the basic premise: 1998 Contour 4 cylinder ATX Last week, car has eaten 2 gallons of Antifreeze, but no evidence of leakage, bad hoses, bad radiator. Engine rebuilt after head gasket 3 years ago, has been a reliable car. GF of ours has been driving it, and temp gauge was running normal according to the girl that owns it. Last week, the temps have been running a bit on the high side, so she has been adding antifreeze. I had to add another gallon today. Last night she is interstate driving 60-70mph, car just stalls on her, and done. Temp gauge was pegged. No leaking coolant at all. Cranks but does not fire. Have had some large back fires through the air box, and did have a bit of smoke/fumes come off the air box. Smelled like it was gas fouled, pulled the plugs. I smelled a lot of gas, plugs are dry. I blew out the chambers with compressed air as dealt with 95-97's working at an auction where they would flood out and wet the plugs and not fire. Plugs as far as I can tell, appear to have "normal" wear. I was assuming it lunched the head gasket again, but not the case. Oil is clean. Engine turns over easy enough...actually sounds strong. Running down the list...debating if maybe the coil pack could be the issue. I popped the plug wires off, not seeing any spark as far as I can tell, but going to try later tonight when dark out. Just trying to save the girl from having to go out and spend money she can't afford on a new car. Any suggestions?
  13. As a resident of Nebraska...and being used to gasohol around here, I've run 89 in our 99 SE V6 for around 130k miles...got our car at 39k off a red carpet lease in 2000, and we are at 171k now. Ethanol has issues, if the car sits long term. Water in the fuel, etc. Has a tendency to attack seals, corrode metal, etc. With that being said, I still even run in my old 1979 F150 highboy 4x4, the motor does a little better than regular 87 on it as far as I can tell when I drive it. I toss 89 gasohol in my 95 F150 4x4 as well...only place I draw the line is my 1972 Gran Torino Sport...I stick only 91/93 in it, and make damn sure no ethanol mix if I can help it. Some reason my 351 Cleveland doesn't like to tolerate it much, but probably because of the compression. As far as the cats and CEL lights...I don't see how that would be caused by gasohol directly. Then again, I've been stuck with the CEL light on for the last 80,000 miles, and according to ford, bad cats that needed to be replaced...right at 300 miles after the 80k emissions warranty expired. I'd tend to think something else is causing the issue IMHO.
  14. eh, not a fan of that stuff, all it does is clog up things and make a mess. Personally, I was having seepage on my 99 SE V6 ATX, and ended up being the seals on the rad. I went to Keystone Automotive /LKQ, got a Canadian made radiator for like $89, and done. Yon need to look at the end tanks and see if it's leaking between the aluminum core and the plastic caps.
  15. There are flushing fluids you can send through the AC system. I can tell you after having to replace a bad line on the front of the engine and the filter canister on the front driver's side, you are miles ahead to pull the radiator and condenser out of the way to do the compressor. What I had to replace the line, I decided to simply pull the front bumper cover, the impact bar, and then took the fans, rad, and ac condenser out of the way. Makes working on the compressor a hell of a lot less of a headache. I was told you should count on replacing the condenser, receiver-dryer {round canister on driver side, sort of a pain in the ass to replace}, and the compressor. Same time...check you radiator hoses, water pump, and front engine mount. All MUCH easier to get at. My mistake was not replacing the front engine mount when I had the chance.
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