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Rocco De Luca

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About Rocco De Luca

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    98 Ford Contour SE
  1. The valve body can be removed from inside the engine bay. It's a tight squeeze that requires some fasteners be removed from underneath but, it is possible. However, it seems that the 2-4 band could be my culprit. Seems another gentleman had the same problems as I and successfully corrected it by replacing this component. It can be replaced without removing the trans but, the procedure is risky. When the weather warms up, I will attempt to replace it and update this post, yet again.
  2. I reopened my transmission and found that the rod that runs from the selector lever to the manual valve of the valve body, was not connected. It must have fallen out when I removed the valve body to replace the solenoid pac (to access and remove the electrical connector). I once again unbolted the valve body and reconnected this rod to the manual valve. At this point I have succeeded in repairing the transmission back into its state of malfunction instead of total failure. If I had to guess, valve body would be the next culprit. . . the wife wants me to sell it since I just bought another project. I want to try a new valve body. Yes, I'm an idiot who has thrown good money after bad but, this has become personal. There is no cloudiness in the oil, there are no metal shavings. That suggests that nothing has started banging and the frictions are not letting loose. I feel I MUST try a valve body. If I gain nothing else from this experience, it is knowledge. Now, I'm hoping that if someone ever comes across this page, they will at least see what the problem ISN'T and will not waste their money as I have thus far.
  3. Update: 2 years later. I finally found some time to replace the solenoid pack. The transmission does absolutely nothing now. I will note that the ATF level is high on the dipstick as if there is no circulation. Maybe I put the gasket on wrong which, I doubt because I did pay extra close attention. I think I may have disturbed a failing valve body, because it is necessary to remove the valve body in order to remove the connector. When I get time, I will replace the valve body and hopefully all goes well. I'm sorry but t has taken so long but I bought a house last year and lost my solenoid pack in a box. Lol. I found it, installed it and now the car doesn't move....awesome.
  4. I appreciate your honesty. I will update this thread once I have done more research. I realize that driving the car can cause more damages which is why I try to keep it as cool as possible, since it shifts perfectly fine when it is stone cold and I can get about 10 miles before my symptoms start. I haven't tried to pass anyone or go WOT since this problem went from intermittent status to full time problem. I hope my light driving helps preserve the hard parts, as I have no choice but to drive this car to work since my wife drives our other car (work shifts overlap). Been driving with the heat on just to try and drop the temp of the radiator which, doesn't seem to do much. I will plug on with this issue, ready to condemn the solenoid pac. I believe I can get the pan off without dropping the trans if I remove the radiator.
  5. So I tested my TPS and even though there was no break in the range when I performed the sweep test, I replaced the sensor anyway as it was $15. I wish I could report that this corrected the problem but alas, it has not. The lucas trans fix additive has also not created any changes so I suspect that there is a problem with the valve body, even less. But I still want to condemn the Solenoid Control Valve.
  6. I forgot to add useful additions. After replacing both the TSS sensor AND the range sensor a.k.a. neutral safety switch, Still, no change. I'm beginning to suspect valve body or solenoid control module (solenoid pac?) but before spending that much money, I've devised a little test. I purchased that snake oil "Lucas Trans Fix" before anyone says a word, I'm going to stop you now and say, I AM NOT USING THIS AS A PERMANENT SOLUTION, I am trying to diagnose. However, my brother owned an 01 Saturn SL1 and it had lost 1st all together. A bottle of this stuff brought it back and lasted long enough for the new valve body it needed. (easy job actually.) So, I am merely trying to see if there are any differences in behavior with the Lucas in place. If it's a bad valve body, I suspect it should improve within the week. However, a Master tech friend of mine, told me to inspect the TPS. Again, this is Chassis Electrical, my weak spot. I was to understand that this sensor measures resistance that is read by the PCM, in order to govern injector pulse width. So I have been trying to think about how a TPS could so adversely affect a drivetrain component, considering it deals with fuel, or so I thought. Since I do at least know how to read and measure this sensor, I will test it before condemning it. Keep in mind, the VSS was replaced about 4 months ago. I totally understand how failure in that sensor can jack up your trans. It became very obvious that the PCM used the speedo signal to govern the trans. Never-the-less, I will be back with an update. NOWHERE ON THE WEB, is there a solution for my problem, but the question has been asked a few times. I hope any remaining contour or Mystique owners will benefit from both my error and hopefully, success.
  7. I suppose I should have mentioned that I'm ASE cert. engines, S&S, HVAC, Exhaust and Charging Elec. not that good at Chassis Elec or Transmission, which is why I posted it. Everyone and anyone can just take it into a shop. If we all did this, I'm not so sure forums like this would exist. I suppose what I'm saying is, while I don't know much about electrical, my 15 + yrs experience as a tech provides me with enough common sense in areas I do not fully understand, to try and test certain variables that could be causing the affliction, without causing damage. Or to put it mildly... I know what I'm doing. I know how to NOT break things, however, your concern is duly noted. Does anyone have a different, experienced or otherwise more useful suggestion than this? I could have just typed "google.com" in my browser, instead of "fordcontour.org", had I been looking for a tow truck.
  8. I could have sworn I saw a thread on this site, in which someone had the same problem but now I can't find it. Anyhow, I have a 1998 Ford Contour 2.5L and over the winter, I started experiencing problems with the transmission. 1. When cold, the transmission shifts fine 2. When warm, there is a bit of a on acceleration from a dead stop. 3. When warm, 1st gear winds out and will not shift unless you hold the accelerator pedal steady. 4. When warm, will sometimes wind out in 1st and skip right over 2nd and into 3rd, depending on speed. 5. When warm, if it does hit 2nd gear, engine will rev up between 2nd to 3rd gear. 6. When warm, will downshift hard when letting off the gas at speeds under 45 mph. 7. When warm, O/D light will start flashing. Problem used to be intermittent and is now consistent. Fluid does not appear or smell burned. Found code for TSS (transaxle shaft speed sensor), replaced sensor and no change. I suspect the range sensor is no good but before I throw any more money at this beast, I want to know if anyone has had this happen and if any solutions were found. The first time this happened, I google searched for quite a bit of info and found a few posts that described my problem exactly. But those posts had no solution to offer. If I fix this problem, I want to be able to contribute my findings. I apologize if this post is not in the right spot.
  9. I forgot to mention, using Bosch +4 & +2. Plugs is a waste. First couple tanks I saw astounding economy 340 mpt highway. However, after 2-3 tanks it started to drop. After 10k miles, I had the worst economy ever. I tried it with the Bosch 4s first, then the 2s. Same result. I've used autolites and delcos as well. The delcos lasted about 30k before economy started to plunge. The autolites, about 25k. Motorcraft double platinums are definitely the plug you want to use in your duratecs.
  10. I took out the air baffle in the air filter box and that seems to have improved mpg on my 2.5. The more direct airflow seems to have given me about 1 mpg. I also cut out the downstream cat under the car and gained 1-2 more mpg however, chopping the downstream cat (non California emissions) has seemingly robbed a couple horses in exchange for the economic factor which was expected with reduced back pressure.
  11. Added note, I have not used a NOID light on my injectors, nor have I tested for fuel pressure as I feel these tests are pointless until I can get my fuel pump energized. Finally, I have read in other forums about a 175 amp "megafuse" used on the 2.0L. I wonder if A). the 2.5L has this fuse and . Could this be my problem. ( I don't recall seeing any "megafuses" when I replaced the motor.)
  12. I am in a similar spot. 98 contour se 2.5. Long story short, it took me almost a damn year to replace my engine due to vast distance and limited time. The "new" motor is from an 01 cougar. I took great care to swap sensors from the old motor to the replacement (except O2. Easy to replace) With the exception of a couple O2 sensors and a 3 prong triangle shaped harness coming off the transmission, everything appears to be plugged in. Everything that snaps in is snapped in, everything that bolts down is good and tight (electrically speaking) It cranks and I am getting spark but, oddly enough, I'm not hearing my primer switch and for some odd reason, my horn stopped working. Checked all fuses, none blown. Checked the relays in the PD Box by switching them with the headlights and all 4 relays will turn on the headlights (R7 through R10 I believe) But nothing works in the horn spot, nothing works in the fuel pump spot. I unbolted the PD box and the ground wires coming from the plate on the neg batt cable are grounded and the other ground wire from that plate disappears into the loom. I see no corrosion or broken connections at the battery tray. On the passenger side, I see two ground wires bolted into the fender by the strut tower next to the P/S reservoir. I remember unscrewing that bolt to remove those wires with the engine and well, obviously I reconnected 2 of them. I don't remember if there was more than two. I get a service engine light. My dash LED above the radio behaves as usual. The car is equipped with an after market keyless entry/alarm by Audiovox but that has never played in as an issue before and I did not install it. I bought this car from carmax (10 yrs ago) and the alarm was already in it. Just to repeat, the car started and ran on 4 out of 6 cylinders with the old blown motor BEFORE we replaced the motor. I tried my damndest to make sure everything would bolt on to the harness that came with the car so the harness IS the original harness that came with the car. I have been at this between two jobs for about a month now and I can't figure it out. Too broke to send it to a shop. The only thing I haven't tested is the connections at the pump. I don't know which wire goes to what and I don't know the specs for voltages or impedences, ergo I don't know what to look for or what to expect under the rear end, so I haven't tried it yet. Before I condemn my alarm I need an education on testing my fuel pump. P.S. I did beat the shiz out of my inertia switch (fuel cut off) and it popped. I reset it and still nothing.
  13. Nevermind, I just found a pic online. That connector goes to the MAF sensor. (Duh) Which I probably would have known had my "friend" not thrown my airbox away. Still, I can not figure out why it won't crank.
  14. I have the same problem. Just did an engine swap (2.5 for a 2.5. No 3.0 here.) and I get in the drivers seat, pop in the key and I have all kinds of life in the dashboard however, when I turn the key forward, I get absolutely nothing. I do not hear the fuel primer. It does not crank at all. I read this post and ran outside to check the bolt at the wire junction on the driver's side and it's bolted in tight. I found two disconnected harness though. One is a two prong that looks like it belongs to the intake temp sensor in the rubber induction elbow. The other is a 6 prong, yellow inside connector with 4 wires running into it. Wire colors are green with a red stripe, black with a tan stripe, tan with a blue stripe and white with a blue stripe. I have looked down in the transmission area and I do not see any open connections. I have groped and traced wires, and all appear to be connected, (except I can not find the connector for the IAC motor. Gotta be in there somewhere) I simply cannot figure out where this female, 6 prong, 4 wire connector goes. I have a feeling this will solve my problem. if anyone knows or can find out, I would be grateful.
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