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rdvil last won the day on May 20 2013

rdvil had the most liked content!

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About rdvil

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  • Birthday 12/02/1984

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  • Vehicle owned
    1999 Mondeo V6
  1. My condolences to all his friends and family. His loss hits us all, even if we never talked in person. It's a rare individual who can combine such knowledge and experience, and remain friendly and helpful. Many lesser professionals would ignore everyone who's not a customer, but here any and all relevant questions were answered. Merely the loss of his ever accessible knowledge and experience feels terrible, and from what I gathered from his personality, it must be much worse for all who knew him well. You're not alone in your pain.
  2. Thanks for the quick reply! Shame about no concepts or anything...well at least if I do get this out of head and into reality, it would really be a first then. Or maybe transverse Taurus V8 and 4wd. Or maybe keep it as it is, and leave the powerslides to the Sierra...
  3. Was there ever a V8 concept? I read that CDW27 was designed to house multiple drivetrain configurations, even V8 RWD. I've been curious how much of this idea was left in a production platform, or if there was ever a prototype or mule built. It just so happens I've got a 4x4 Mondeo with a rotted shell, and I've been toying with the idea of using the shafts, rear beam supports and rear suspension components in a healthier body, maybe try to fit a 7" or 7.5" limited slip diff from a Sierra, and engine+transmission from a fox Mustang...but no idea how much fabrication or changes to bodywork w
  4. So my Cougar's having an engine change coming up, one broken 170ps V6 for a running 170ps V6. The "new" engine's been in the warm storage for 6 years, done about 120 000 miles. Since now is the time when everything's accessible, what all should I change? Plugs, clutch, intake gaskets, anything else in the engine bay? There's nothing broken but the car's done 140 000 miles already. And what about the EGR? Seems all it does is make more problems, but is there a way to remove it without setting off OBD-codes?
  5. ST220 engine would need the ECU, harness & gearbox, maybe suspension bits and driveshafts too, which quickly builds up to a donor car, and they're a bit pricey still. Saw a crashed ST220 for sale for 4,5k€, while a replacement 170-horse lump only costs 350€. Easy math. Not gonna be easy either way, don't have a garage let alone a lifter, so I don't yet know how I'll get the engine out & in. Might end up having to get something else to drive for now and fix the kitty when I can afford it or find an affordable place to do it in. If I do decide to wait, then the ST220 swap might be an
  6. Yeah, low on oil - so rings most likely. But why would they go? Anyway, should hear about replacement engines today, but can't afford the work prices so have to do it all myself again and no idea when I'll have the chance. :'(
  7. No noises, and it feels like the fault developed insidiously or something...very gradually with no noticeable effects in exhaust values as close as three months ago, although it has always smoked a bit. Didn't know what was normal for a modern V6, but maybe not that much. Even now it's not really audible, more like felt. For someone unfamiliar with mechanical things and 6-cylinder engines the only noticeable thing would be the smoke when you lift off at 4000rpm. Have to go check the oil level on Monday, am I correct in assuming the lack of oil would point to the rings? Anyway, I have to
  8. Any guesses what failed? '99 Cougar V6 manual. 220tkm(130tml) on the clock, was running fine previously, except for moosing, hanging revs and fault code P1131. IMRC failed but was fixed. After the last track day(wide open throttle but no limiter, no missed gears) I noticed idle got worse, and the car stalled a few times, and it almost felt like it was running on 5, though not all the time. Also got an additional fault code for cylinder 2 misfire, and heavy smoke when engine braking. Took the car to Ford, and they found out that number two's lost compression. So, any ideas why?
  9. You didn't hear the snap, crackle and pop of the insulations in the wiring when you pulled it around? The plastic gets hard and brittle in the engine bay and eventually wears the wires out to copper, and anything you do in the engine bay that has anything to do with the wires is liable to cause trouble. If I were you I'd go through the wires you touched, and especially the "joints", the places where the wires are fixed to something, or bent in curves, anywhere that looks like the insulation might be breaking, and find the place where the insulation's broken through. If you've just got one f
  10. I think I'll do what I've done and try not to worry. The box works great, nothing's changed in the 10 months I've had the car, and transmission overhaul is way beyond my budget now. Just can't think of anything that would exert any force on that plate like that.
  11. Awesome thing about vacuum leaks is that sometimes they're only noticeable really cold and really hot. IN normal operating temp you might not see anything. I've used brake cleaner spray myself when looking for leaks.
  12. Any idea what might have caused them to break? Here's a shot of mine: My coogah didn't come with a splash protection on either side...
  13. There is a filter, or more like a sieve inside the tranny, but getting to it is impossible with the transmission in place. If the fluids are original as per Ford's policy, they are pretty much done for, so changing those would be first in the list I'd say. Check fault codes, wiring loom is highly suspect especially if it wasn't replaced by Ford back in the day. Anywhere you look in the engine bay, the insulation on the original wires is falling apart, and that can cause all sorts of funny behaviour. Would imagine the light coming on then though.
  14. Got the exact same thing. No idea what caused it, but it doesn't seem to be causing anything more, gearbox works well and takes abuse without complaint. Would indeed be nice to know what might cause that, and also what the bolts hold. The plate doesn't seem to hold anything.
  15. Good opening to ask about the oil - I've heard ford engines are as picky about that as they are of spark plugs. Hydraulic lifters fail or bearings seize when you use something other than exactly recommended spec. This true or rumour, and what kind of oils are safe for mpg-oriented street and what are safe for track?
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