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Pieloux last won the day on August 24 2015

Pieloux had the most liked content!


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About Pieloux

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  • Interests
    mechanic, music, reading

Previous Fields

  • Vehicle owned
    1995 Contour SE with V6

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  1. Thank you for your quick answer. Acording to Sonnax they are not interchangeable. Actually Sonnax applies a different stategy when remanufacturing RF3 and RF7 which makes them not intechangeable. Pieloux
  2. Just a question : Are main valve bodies RF3 and RF7 interchangeable ? My car being a 1995 model, I would assume that the valve body is a F3. Thks for your assistance. Pieloux
  3. VSS removal and installation (1995 V6 with CD4E & no speedometer cable). Has this topic already been discussed ? Pieloux
  4. Thank you. Due to the age of the vehicle, I am going to replace it. Once it is done I will run the car, see how the transmission reacts and perform a KOEO. Pieloux
  5. Yesterday I did a KOEO test with my Innova code reader. No self test codes (except 111) but the following codes were displayed in the continuous memory : 452 (VSS signal fault) and 628 (converter clutch slippage). To be sure, I erased the codes, went for a drive and did the test again. The same DTC were displayed. I also noticed that shifting was very harsh and noisy espacially from P to N and N to D. Could the faulty VSS be the reason for code 628 ? Could it be a problem with the solenoids pack or the valve body ? Thank you for your feedback Pieloux 1995 Contour SE (V6 & ATX)
  6. I totally agree with you. Testing air bag system requires appropriate (service) tools and is not for the common DIY'er. However, the only interest with the service manual is that it gives you the description and operation of the system and the location of the components.
  7. Hello, I have the "Ford Service Manual" for the 1995 Contour and mystique. Section 01-20B Restraints, Passive Supplemental Air Bag System describes the system and the diagnosis/testing procedures. Unfortunatly it is 70 pages and you probably do not need all of them. If you give me your email address I can send you the first page which describes what is included in this section and you can tell me precisely what you need. Pieloux
  8. I need to replace (for the first time in almost 25 years) the front sway bar bushings. I read somewhere that it is necessary to lower the front subframe in order to remove the bolts. Is it true ? I checked in the 1995 service manual and it is not indicated that you have to lower the front subframe. Has this topic already been discussed in this forum ?
  9. Thank you everybody for your responses. I think the color is gunmetal grey but honestly the color is not a concern. I have the 1995 Contour service manual and it does not show that you have to change the all unit. I will check on ebay for the full units available. Pieloux
  10. Does anyone know where I could find the following parts : Full Center Console shifter bezel P/N F5RZ-7D443-B ? The one on my Contour SE 1995 with A/T is cracked and the indicator stays at "P". Thank you
  11. Please check your in box mail. You should find a photo and a short explanation on how to remove the fuel lines at the fuel pump. Let me know if you have a problem opening the message. Pieloux
  12. Hello from France Since I have the EVTM (electrical & vacuum troubleshooting manual) for 1995 Contout and Mystique, I can provide you with a copy of the four pages related to ELECTRICAL COOLING FANS. Please give me your email address. Pieloux
  13. Thanks for your answers. The problem is now solved. I had too much air trapped in the system (when I refilled the system I did not pour the coolant slowy enough to prevent air bubbles entering the system) and I had installed the thermostat upside down (air bubbles could not escape). Everything returned to normal and the "old lady" is back on the roads of the south of France.
  14. Hi, My 95 Contour SE with ATX is now 22 years old with only 110000 miles on it. It's an "old lady" in France since 1997. So, since I had the parts availabIe I decided to feshen up the cooling system. I drained the coolant and replaced the water pump (used one with metal impeller), the thermostat (motorade failsafe) and a couple of hoses (Top hose and thermostat to water pump). I refilled the system with new coolant and purged the system following Terry Haynes instructions. After 15 to 20 minutes of idling with the recovery tank cap off the temperature gauge stabilizes between R & M of normal. Put the cap back on the tank and stopped the car. During this process I did not see any bubble coming out of the tank and the fan never kicked in. The next day I decided to test drive the car. After 10 minutes on the road (5 to 6 miles) the temperature was almost to the L of normal and the fan had kicked in but did not do any good since the temperature never returned to normal (stayed between A and L) and the fan never stopped until I was back home and stopped the car. I opened the hood and immediately noticed that the top hose and the thermostat housing were real hot but on the other side of the car of the engine compartment the recovery tank was cold and the botton hose was cold too. It was really easy and safe for me to remove the cap (no pressure, no bubble). According to what I read on the forum, a hot top radiator hose and a cold botton hose is an indication that the thermostat does not open. I am really skeptical since the thermostat is brand new. The water pump seems to be OK (I pinched the top hose and released it and I really felt a surge). Before I drain the coolant to open the thermostat housing and eventually replace the thermostat (I will reinstall the original ford one which was working fine - never had a problem of overheating) I would like to have your advice. Thanks to everybody Pieloux
  15. The green one is the low speed engine cooling fan relay (provides voltage and current to fan motor through cooling fan resistor) The black one is the high speed engine cooling fan.
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