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About elipajuelo

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  • Birthday 12/07/1967
  1. elipajuelo

    Timing Belt on a 2.0L 16V ZetecVCT - 1998

    More than that, I wanted to give some sort of clarification on how and why that particular camshaft behaves like that. Of course following the manufacturer recomendation should give you the perfect timing. At the same time because I saw threads in which some guys had trouble loosing the sprockets, or not understanding why it was important. Anyway, if it helps somebody not to kill their engine, I would feel satisfied.
  2. elipajuelo

    Timing Belt on a 2.0L 16V ZetecVCT - 1998

    I understand your comment. And also saw the full procedure from Ford already. The reasons I see why they specify to loose the sprockets: - To allow for the spring inside the exhaust sprocket to push the piston freely to its default position, which would make the sprocket and camshaft to be 30 degree apart. - To get the correct tensioner position (calibration), because there would be no interference from the valves and the VCT spring pushing the camshafts. - To allow for belt specification variation. - To fix previously incorrect timing adjustment. That is why I said, if it was properly synchronized the last time, the belt spec do not vary much (size, elasticity). The tricky part is the belt tension, which is probably something everybody is used to adjust. And of course double check after all by rotating the crankshaft at least two times and verify the alignment of the slots. Anyway, this is only if you really don't want to loose the sprockets.
  3. elipajuelo

    Timing Belt on a 2.0L 16V ZetecVCT - 1998

    After doing some research, found out how the VCT mechanism in the exhaust camshaft works. - A piston inside the exhaust sprocket is moved by oil pressure which is controlled by the VCT solenoid valve. This valve can make the piston move in both directions, depending on the particular needs. - This same piston is also pushed by a spring to its default position, which by means of the internal gears make the sprocket to rotate CCW if you keep the camshaft fixed. In this position the camshaft is advanced in reference to the sprocket by 30 degrees. - The VCT solenoid also has a default position, which makes the oil to push the piston in the same direction as its spring. There is a mention somewhere (from Ford) that the Oil Filter is recommended to have a check valve to keep some oil pressure in this VCT mechanism and facilitate cold starts (the Ford filter has this). - The timing is performed using this default position, TDC on #1, intake and exhaust camshafts aligned (with the special tool), and the exhaust camshaft sprocket all the way CCW. I assume if it was ever properly synchronized (and as long as the belt specifications are same), there should not be the need to mess with loossing the sprockets. The only thing to be careful of is the belt tension, because the indicator on the tensioner is supposed to be correct only when the sprockets are loose and free to rotate, which is not true because the valve springs and the VCT spring will keep pulling the belt differently at every position. - The VCT mechanism is capable of controlling the exhaust valve timing to adapt the idle and or high RPM requirements, by changing the angle between the sprocket and the camshaft. Hope this helps Eli
  4. Hi all, I saw previous posting on proper belt replacement. Good info. My question is, the goal is to have the slots in the two camshafts aligned (so the ~0.2 inch thick bar can easily fit in them) when #1 piston is at TDC after the belt was properly installed and the crankshaft was rotated at least twice (clockwise) ? This of course, already includes the automatic action of the VCT mechanism. I found the exhaust camshaft not aligned in this way before removing the timing belt (it was lagging), so it was not properly aligned originally (?). By the way, the small idler pulley right beside the crankshaft and the tensioner pulley had both the bearing worn out. I am replacing them. The belt was not broken, but it had cracks already. And the tensioner looks different from that in the Haynes book, doesn't look that it needs a spring and retaining pin as presented in that book. Thanks for your help Eli
  5. Hi all, My Contour (3FALP6538WM114306) has the 4-bolt version of the lower arm (two different kinds of bolts), and the Haynes book only gives me one torque spec for this two kinds of bolts. I believe Haynes spec is for the 2-bolt version of the lower arm only. />So far, as one of the bolts is 12mm, grade 10.9, I used 62 ft-lb, and the other is 10mm, grade 10.9, I used 40 ft-lb. This made sense to me, but I would be very glad if one of you guys can confirm that for me. Thanks in advance. />Eli Pajuelo

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