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Everything posted by jefo

  1. sorry here is link for window switch,. http://www.switchdoctor.net/ford-contour-window-switch/ford-contour-master-power-window-switch-2000-2005/
  2. Try this company for window switch. they have them from 1995 to 2005 for the contour and only $19.95
  3. i Remember reading on here or some where the same problem . the thermostat was put back in upside down or back wards.
  4. http://www.switchdoctor.net/troubleshooting. http://www.switchdoctor.net/ford-contour-window-switch/ford-contour-master-power-window-switch-2000-2005/ Had the same problem with my 98 contour only mine was when it went up. the master switch fixed it and only $19.50. the first link is for troubleshooting. second is the switch.
  5. Is this what you are looking for http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1995-2000-FORD-Contour-Mystique-OEM-Rear-Reflector-License-Lamp-F5RZ13550A-/311698742465?hash=item4892b15cc1
  6. Could be the new plugs.I have a Ford contour 4 cyl. and have found that anything but Motorcraft OEM Plugs my car would run bad
  7. Forgot also changed the radiator over flow tank had a small crack in the top couldn't even see it. would not hold pressure was told that could also be the problem with the fans not enough pressure in the system.
  8. My 98 zetec had same problem . There are 2 temp sensors one is called the temp sensor the other is a temp sender. I changed both now fans work at 200 fahrenheit...
  9. 3m molding tape http://www.amazon.com/3M-03614-Scotch-Mount-Molding-Tape/dp/B002JOVUO0
  10. If you look here they also do interior paint. http://www.automotivetouchup.com/faq.htm
  11. Try this company. http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/ford/
  12. Sorry to hear. he'll be missed . My deepest condolences to his family.
  13. When the valves went it had no power could floor it and it would move but felt like i was towing a train behine it. then it died. went about 50 miles before it died. through all this i had no engine light.
  14. sounds like you might have a clogg if it won't pull from over flow. in hose to Radiator , Radiator or a closed Thermostat .
  15. A how to on pcv replacement. http://www.focushacks.com/mod/PCV_Valve_replacement_%28Zetec_engine%2C_maybe_others%29
  16. Change the pcv Valves . Mine was clogged at 56000 and Blew the Valves . It was a $1000. fix for the valves. pcv is only $8.00. another thing at the time i had oil all in the spark plug hole.
  17. Sorry don't have the answer to your problems. But someone on one of these forums had a very simple way to wire the fans so the stay on will car is running do a search. http://fordforums.org/ford-forums/archive/index.php/f-28.html http://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford-contour-33/ http://www.automotiveforums.com/f683-contour.html http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/
  18. Look here http://www.ehow.com/how_7558145_trunk-latch-wont-close.html
  19. Look here for o2 sensor check's. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=p0135%20ford
  20. Don't think it is your o2 sensor it will give a code to engine light mine did when it went bad. I've had this same problem on my 98 2.0 4 cyl , with 98000 miles on it. from time to time. What I have done to car in the last few months. Not because for starting problem ,but because they were need ed. fuel pump and both filters Battery temp sendor and sensor upper o2 sensor What I do when I have this problem is turn key to run listen for fuel pump to start then stop I recycle this 1 to 3 times and it will start. I haven't check my Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS )yet. But as I understand if you have spark at even one plug the CPS is good. When this happens I know on mine I have spark at all plugs. So must be something else. By the way I only get the starting problem now when i'm in a hurry and don't recycle the key at least once. But then i recycle the key 2 time and it starts.
  21. Found this on a mustang forum I have FINALLY solved the mystery of P1413. It wound up being the smog pump after all... Five pumps and two bottles of WD40 later... Show's ya not to buy sh*t out of a junkyard. Not to mention, the vacuum solenoid was bad too. I pulled off the tube that connected them both and the pump wasn't blowing air; the solenoid wasn't sucking air either. I wound up dissecting these five smog pumps. Not only were they filled with water, but the motor was usually covered in about an inch of rust and the fan inside was all seized up. All I can say is find a junkyard that guarantees their parts. Ford Motors wanted $250 for the stupid thing, without shipping!! In case anyone else is trying to decipher this code, check the vacuum solenoid first. It's A LOT cheaper, but chances are the pump is bad too. Blow through the steel end, and if no air comes out the other side it's toast... Replace it. For part 2, wait until the engine is cool and start it up. The rubber hose that connects the pump to the solenoid check valve thingy should be blowing air. If it's not, the pump is bad or it's not receiving power for one of various reasons. Chances are the pump is just rusted out or seized up like the five that I went through before fixing it. It runs on DC power so to check it, just pull it out (it's in the front by the passenger side bumper, there's only three bolts holding it in... (10mm)) and hook it up to the battery with two pieces of wire (strip the ends first). I'll betcha it doesn't turn on. Get a new one, test it using the same method, replace it and that should be the extent of the problem. Thankfully I never had to change the O2 sensors. Oh, and by the way, there is also fuse in the power distribution box called "Secondary Air Injection System". It's 30 AMP MAXI and about $1.99 from AutoZone. It would probably be a good idea to check this too before spending $100 from a junkyard for a pump you might not need. Google "P1413 fuse" to get a diagram, but I think it's the sixth one in. I hope this helps! If I get a chance I'll post some pics of the parts and locations. Also look here. http://nl.findeen.com/p1413_ford_code.html
  22. you could try these they are a Universal kit i've used then on a few cars. If not right you can return them http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47137-Windshield-Washer-Nozzle/dp/B000COCTXA#
  23. Try this guy i've gotten a few things from him for my contour. If he doesn't have it listed for you car send him a message he may have it in stock. But this one might fir look in the discription. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-Wiper-Washer-Windshield-Nozzle-F6DZ17603M-/281891882319?hash=item41a210c54f:g:xg8AAOSwUdlWeVJ9
  24. Look Here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Zetec_engine https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Zeta_engine
  25. Saw this today maybe it will help you. The problem might be with Idle Air Control valve circuit. The IAC valve is what controls the engine idle speed depending on the load imposed on the engine at idle. So for example, if the steering wheel is turned the power steering pump imposes a load on the engine at idle. The IAC valve then moves to a position to step the idle up to compensate for this load so the engine doesn't run rough or stall. The same thing occurs when the AC or defrosters are turned on. The AC compressor imposes a load on the engine at idle and the IAC valve moves to a position to compensate for this load so the engine doesn't run rough or stall. Now if the steering is turned and the AC is on at idle, the IAC valve has to move to another position to compensate for those two loads imposed on the engine at idle. So the IAC valve is a stepper motor that can move to various positions for the various load conditions when the engine is idling. If the IAC valve fails to go to the proper position where the engine has a rough idle when that load is imposed on the engine, it means the IAC valve isn't allowing enough air into the engine. This can then cause the engine to run rich and/or cause an engine misfire. This then will cause the Check Engine light to come on. The first thing to try for an IAC valve problem is remove the IAC valve from the throttle body, and clean it along with the idle air bleed port on the throttle body of deposits with an aerosol throttle body cleaner. Then reinstall the IAC valve to see if that fixes the problem. If that doesn't work, with the engine up to operating temperature and idling, take the handle of a screwdriver and rap on the IAC valve. If doing this has an effect on the idle speed, there's a problem with the IAC valve.
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