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About XtraGassy

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Orange County
  • Interests
    Subarus, Miatas, Rams, now Contours too

Previous Fields

  • Vehicle owned
    00 Contour SE Bi-fuel
  1. I had this happen to the plastic shroud covering the middle rear seatbelt. The brake light trim was long gone before I ever saw this car. This seems like a business opportunity for someone with a 3D printer.
  2. You should do a remote trunk pop for $10. Not sure about the older Tours, but the newer ones have a little space cut out for a door actuator motor next to the trunk latch.
  3. I just reread your post. Your ball joint is misaligned. It must line up perfectly before you attempt to join the parts back together. Its possible that you damaged the joint with all that hammering.
  4. Disclaimer: I am assuming that this suspension setup looks a lot like the Contour. If this is for the front, first move the steering knuckle to behind the ball joint (toward the rear of the car) to make the parts line up better. If you have a friend, you can use your body weight (step on it) to displace the ball joint toward the floor. The other person can line up the ball joint with the knuckle. This worked for me, but your other option would be to use a spring compressor to relieve some stress from the strut assembly. If this is happening on your passenger side front, it is possible that you pulled out the half shaft from the transaxle. If this is the case you should be able to feel 3 "balls" at the transaxle end of the shaft that need to be re-inserted. It is advisable to remove the boot (which in itself entails cutting it off and getting a new one) and make sure the half shaft is lined up properly. If this is for the rear, you absolutely need a spring compressor.
  5. Forgot to mention that the Contour does indeed have 2 separate circuits for the door triggers (important for the alarm install I will be starting in a short while): One for the front passenger (front right) door, and another for the other 3. Don't ask why. It's just the way it is. Source: Haynes manual
  6. SUCCESS!!! I took the sensors off and sanded down all of the electrical connections with 100 grit. The sole mounting screw also serves to ground the circuit to the chassis. If you have the same problem, make sure to clean the screw and the interior of its associated hole in the chassis. In a case like mine, it was much quicker to just sand it all down to bare metal. Here are some pictures. PS - The footwell lighting is factory equipment and there is no "door ajar" light on the instrument panel. And speaking of factory equipment, anyone know where I can get a reprint of the original Monroney sticker for my car? It might not even exist considering it began life as a government fleet car. PPS - I'm thinking about starting a second life as a hand model.
  7. Two month old post with no replies, but I'll bite. I would like a Lancia Delta HF Integrale. I'm not too particular about the Integrale trim, but I want one with a 2.0L turbo, a 5-speed, and AWD.
  8. Curious to know if you dropped the steering column onto the seat to get the dash out
  9. Finally got the dash out. I reconnected all of the electronics (except the cigarette lighter) afterwards. Also, a picture explaining why my car is pulling right so much.
  10. If my understanding of negative door triggers is correct, I should be able to test the trigger by jumping its terminals to complete the circuit. In theory, this should fool the car into thinking the door is open. Any thoughts?
  11. Correction: my current tire size is 195/65/14, less than 1% difference from the OEM 14" tire according to the calculator.
  12. I noticed that my dome light only comes on when I open either or both of my rear doors. This also causes a pair of lights (one in each footwell) to light up. I'm not sure if these cars come equipped with "door ajar" lights in the gauge cluster, but if they do my bulb is out/missing or is otherwise nonfunctional. I have attached a picture of my cluster to show the lights that do light up when I turn the key. So my questions are: 1) Does this car/cluster have a "door ajar" light? If so, where is it? 2) Does this car come with footwell lighting equipped as either standard or optional equipment? The passenger side is housed just under the glove box and the driver side is housed in the lower dash panel. Pictures attached (please note that the lower dash panel was removed prior to this picture. 3) Is it normal to have the dome lights come on with just the rear doors opening and not the fronts? There doesn't appear to be any kind of aftermarket alarm or keyless entry system. There are holes all over the dash from its former life as an airport fleet vehicle and there is a fair amount of bi-fuel specific wiring, about which I am unable to find any reliable information. 4) Is it possible that I have 2 bad triggers in my front doors? I do know that this car has 2 separate door trigger circuits. Are they separated front/rear or left/right? This is for a 2000 Contour SE Bi-fuel. Any help would be appreciated.
  13. A tire discussion... love it. I'm really not sure what the factory tire size on my Contour is supposed to be, but it's sitting on 185/65/14 right now, with what appear to be factory hubcaps (just 3). All major retailers' websites report my factory tire size as 205/60/15. I will look around and see if there is a better selection of tires for the 215mm tire. I have decided on the Falken Ziex ZE612 from America's Tire (what they call Discount Tire in my area). Can't go wrong at $58 a piece with a 65K mile warranty. FYI this is still more cost effective than the most affordable set of tires at Pepboys, even with their current buy 3 get 1 promotion.
  14. I'm just about ready to take out my old dash if I can get the damn AT shifter off. Aussie Ford mentions that the wiring harness goes with the dash. What's to stop me from removing the original wiring harness from my car and reusing it with the new dash? Is it a lot more work? I was initially worried about the bi-fuel switch (which I will relocate with the new dash), but I've found that it has its own little circuit with a plug. Also, can I use a 00 glove box with a pre-98 dash? The hinges on mine seem different from the Haynes manual.
  15. I found that the entire assembly is easier to work with if you get the knuckle behind (toward the rear of the vehicle) the lower control arm as you separate them. The parts just line up better that way. And make sure to unbolt the steering tie rod and the sway bar link.
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