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About amc49

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Fort Worth Texas
  • Interests
    working on cars with no dealer or shop help at all.

Previous Fields

  • Vehicle owned
    '98 zetec Contour
  1. Any difference in '99 is likely whether the later uses the lower idler next to the crankshaft or not, the extra one in kit disappears. The kits are called A and B and the difference is that if Gates parts. Even the earlier one can drop that idler and simply not use it, it tends to fall apart anyway since close to a lot of heat down there. The belt simply retimes different for the idler missing. I use the extra idler to remove the bearing out of it to use on other things like serp belt idlers The earlier engine runs from '95-'97 so it's not that; they are a different setup as far as the tensioner goes, and idlers are different too. I use Gates parts on several cars and zero issues if you install correctly. One thing to check on zetec head is whether the tensioner bolt hole is deep enough, some don't get tapped deep enough and then the bolt can be slightly loose at fully tight. Then most blame the tensioner for being bad when it comes loose. The only new part I've had come apart way early is a Ford branded idler.
  2. If you happen to have an older analog needle type voltmeter lying around you can read the blips off crank and cam sensors to tell if they are working, why I keep mine lying around gathering dust. And when I encounter issues with OEM connectors I dump them pretty much instantly to add my own much tighter ones and even positive screw together ones if needed. OEM connectors suck as far as reliability once they get older. It's not like you need to be able to disconnect them every minute and worth the trouble to have to work more to do it.
  3. Uh, the converter goes on the trans at install not the engine, makes it worlds easier to get together. You have no idea how close you have come to trans destruction, the converter will seem to be on the correct amount then it tears up the front bushings in trans. Most destroy in 20 minutes of running. When you change a camshaft the tappets or shims, whichever that one has (should be shim in a '98 zetec) have to be re-setup for that cam, every single one is different. So if trouble begins way early you now know why. The automatic is far more likely to break there, they are well known for it due to a known engineering flaw and why most end up in the scrapyards. And, engine or trans comes out the bottom not the top. Much easier that way. BTDT.
  4. I disabled mine as I thought it worked way too early and too easy, the car would not stop in nearly so short a time as either of my two Focus cars which do not have it. I myself when needed am pretty good at steering out of a slide that takes the car sideways so that helps.
  5. Tires can easily do it if close to dead. The outer tie rods being loose can do it as well.
  6. The numbers given if real are lousy, need at least 150 psi with that engine, but always suspect the gauge as they give countless problems. 100 psi if real is a virtually dead cylinder, it WILL try to miss at that low, the number is low enough the heat drops off that cylinder and then the plug will not burn off to stay clean to fire right.
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