Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


0 Neutral

About jgirard2

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Victoria, BC
  • Interests
    Antique American and British automobiles, McIntosh and B&O electronics.

Previous Fields

  • Vehicle owned
    1999 Mystique 2.5L V-6
  1. I just purchased a remote on eBay as well. Now let's just hope it works. The unit specifically said made for the Mystique 2.5 liter LS, which is my exact model.
  2. Thanks. I have seen quite a few on eBay, but wondered if there was a better source. At least I got a key that the alarm would accept!
  3. I need e replacement Remote Control Fob for a 1999 Mercury Mystique. Any ideas where I might find the correct one. My dealer had one, but it didn't work. The Mystique did everything it should: beeped its horn, flashed the parking lights, and locked the doors..... but the remote, nada.
  4. I need the remote control fob for a 1999 Mercury Mystique, where can I find one?
  5. I am taking a week off, so I have the time to check this out. Thank you for the tips! Jeff
  6. My '99 Mystique with 2.5 liter V-6 has an awful smell of burning oil immediately after starting the engine, which begins half way out of the garage. Checked all fluids (oil, ATF, brake) and all at max level. There is a tiny oil drip from the middle of the engine and I mean TINY, as in a drop possible two in a month. If this is a common oil leak on the manifold, I would think the smell would take a few minutes for the manifold to heat up, but that is not the case. Checking out the engine there is only the slightest hint of this burning smell, but nothing to see from above. Took the car to the Ford dealer who said, "At best you have a small oil leak. We smell the odor big time, but we think it is a plastic bag that got wrapped around your catalytic converter." Well that was over a year ago, so any plastic bag would have burnt off ages ago. Whatever it is gets sucked into the A/C intakes in a major way. After a short trip, park the car in the garage and close the door.... come back 15 minutes later and the smell will knock you against the wall. Solving issues like this over the internet is next to impossible.... I know that, but if there are any suggestions of where I might look for the source of the odor I sure would appreciate it. Just got my A/C repaired and good God, does it ever blow COLD now!!! It would be nice if this cold air didn't smell like I was tailgating a diesel bus. Jeff
  7. Good news to report as the Ford dealer wanted $2,074 to replace the evaporator, I asked if they would accept the car with the console and dash removed, and they said OK. The dash had to remain in place for the electrical harness, but held in place by only 4 screws. With the steering wheel re-installed I drove the car VERY carefully to the dealer, who replaced the evaporator and decided to toss in a full service: rotate tires, top up all fluids, check bulbs, fan belt.... you get the idea, but at NO charge. The A/C is now very, VERY COLD and just in time for this really hot weather. Got a real kick out of the new and very young service advisor who was beyond surprised with the car report saying, "We didn't find a single thing wrong and your car is nearly 17 years old." I liked that! Jeff
  8. Thank you very much. If my dealer can't source this part, I'll buy it and bring it in with the car sans the dash. I took it out once before to install the defroster duct kit, so I know it can be done. A lot of work, but the savings of $1,500 are well worth the effort. Jeff
  9. Is the A/C evaporator available for a 1999 Mystique with 2.5 liter V-6? I said in the title time condenser, but that was in error, as I already replaced that. Thanks. Jeff *edited title - spridget
  10. Thanks Terry, you are right considering the age of the car, its current book value, and the probable cost of repairs....very little to loose. The majority of the repair cost is the dash removal and I am sure you know what a pain that is. In an effort to lower costs I offered to remove the dash myself (as I have done this previously) but this necessitates having the car towed to the Ford dealer and back via AAA while making a test drive, after the repair is completed, impossible. To put it mildly, the Ford dealer was anything but enthusiastic about this offer. Hey, I understand, it was just a thought. I'll give the sealant a shot and hope for the best. I have been trying to get this A/C working for a couple of months, so it has been frustrating. However there was one ray of "sunshine" out of all the doom and gloom. When waiting to pick up the car, the mechanic who did the work, all three times, came out and shook my hand saying, "I just wanted to meet you as you have the nicest used car I have ever worked on." That left the service writer speechless and I left the dealer thinking, well I must have done something right. Didn't fix my car, but I felt better for the compliment. Anyway, I ramble on, thanks for the advice! Jeff
  11. Hi Terry, I know you are not an AC guy, but I imagine you can answer this question. I took my ’99 Mystique in for A/C repair and they replaced the condenser, which was leaking. Well that didn’t do it, as the system kind of runs on and off. Took the car back to the dealer who found an extremely small leak in the evaporator and gave me a quote of $1,900 with taxes to take the dash out….. etc. That’s a bit much for a car this age. Then yesterday a couple of weeks after this assessment, cousins from Florida arrived and although I thought it best not to use the A/C thus inviting moisture getting into the system, it was hot as heck and I turned the A/C on and it worked fine. My cousin said he had seen an ad for refrigerant sealant and I just looked on-line and there is a product that claims to seal most leaks, Interdynamics MRL-3 Super Leak Sealer. My leak is supposed to be incredibly tiny, so I am wondering is this a reasonable solution, or just a con? Better question, if leak sealants work on auto A/C units, which do you recommend? Thanks. Jeff
  12. Thanks Terry. That might not sound like a lot, but was EXACTLY what I needed, a suggestion for the shop. They can take it from there. Much appreciated! Jeff
  13. Hi Terry, I know this sounds like a trivial issue, but it really isn't. Why? Well A?C is a nice feature in summer, but I live in the Great Northwest which has cold winters and a LOT of rain. There is no getting around it, we are going to get wet, we get in the car, turn on the heat because it is cold, and without A/C the windows are going to repeatedly fog-up. It is dangerous to be taking your eyes off the road to wipe the windshield and the side windows, but without A/C we are going to have to. My A/C system works, is fully charged with good pressures, but it cuts out, so something is wrong. Now if I go back to the dealer without a suggestion they are just going to laugh at me, "What do you expect with such an old car? Buy a new one, we have plenty on the lot, and solve your own problem." The only thing I have to offset this situation is when I took my car in, the mechanic asked to see me, shook my hand saying, "I just wanted to meet you and tell you that you have the nicest, cleanest used car I have ever worked on." Well that is nice and all, but it doesn't fix my car. So is there anything that you can suggest that I offer them as a lead to this repair? I sure would appreciate it. Jeff
  14. My A/C crapped out on my 1999 Mystique and the Ford dealer found the condenser had a leak, replaced the condenser and problem solved. Not quite. During regular driving the A/C temp at the duct was tepid so took the car back. The system tested perfectly, full charge and 40 degrees at the A/C duct. Felt like a complete fool. Today I took the car on a 60 mile trip and the A/C worked "well." Not exactly frigid on the normal setting, but cold on MAX. Let the car sit a couple of hours and the A/C was not working on MAX. Tried the regular setting and the A/C came back on, again not incredibly cold, but definitely working. Back to MAX and the A/C quite again. All functions on the switch work, all fan speeds, and engage MAX and you hear the flap shut. A few more tries with the MAX setting and the A/C comes on briefly, but then cuts out. In the normal setting it works, but the A/C also cuts out even in the normal setting, just not as often. The system is, as I said fully charged and the pressures are correct. When it works, it works, and when it doesn't..... well it doesn't. Any ideas what is wrong? Jeff
  15. OK Terry, now I am more confused than ever. These rough 1/2 and 2/3 shifts have been going on dependably for months, probably six or more and always downhill. I changed the air filter, had the transmission flushed and the ATF changed with little change, as I reported previously. Today I took my Mystique to the transmission shop and driving in; the transmission mysteriously stopped having these rough shifts. I mean absolutely nothing. The shop owner spent a lengthy time with the car, drove it well over a half an hour and read the computer. The final report stated that the transmission shifts “properly” and there were no codes, none in the computer. I really don’t get it. This is like the old joke of how your car always stops misbehaving just as you drive into the repair shop. Well this isn’t a joke and I pretty much felt like an idiot. The shop owner said that if the problem comes back they can do pressure tests, but with the way the car drives to do it now would be wasting my money. As I left the shop owner said, “I’ll bet it was the dirty air filter.” Well that sounds good, but I find that very hard to believe that a dirty air filter could cause rough shifts, especially since they didn’t cease immediately after I installed the new one. What do you think? Did I go to a shop that isn’t familiar with my vehicle? I shouldn’t “worry” as the problem with resurface soon enough? Or could the guy be right about the air filter? Jeff
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.