spridget reacted to blanchae in 5 speed tranny adjusting shift linkage
If your helper has the transmission shifter held in the 5-N-R neutral position, it will be very difficult to push in the orange buttons as there will be lots of pressure on the cable. Instead, with shifter in normal resting neutral position and no pressure applied, push in the orange button (which will be easy to push in), then have your helper move the shifter to the 5-N-R neutral position.
Sometimes the bushings on the end of the cables wear out causing excessive play, the cables are almost impossible to find now and you may be able to replace just the bushings. Here's a link on how to replace the cables:
spridget reacted to JCorliss in Dies, idles too low, surges at idle. PCV valve?
I know this is an old discussion,but I feel I have to say something here. The post at that link (above in the quoted material) by CRZYDRVR dated 08/04/00 says "Looking at the hose from the top, there is a small black shield on the manifold side right beside the PCV valve. We used a large pry bar (long enough to reach down there) and bent it just a little towards the front of the car. Then I could get my hand through to grab the PCV valve and pull. All it took was a wiggle or 2, and the whole thing popped itself out."
THIS IS EXTREMELY BAD ADVICE!! That "small black shield" (on the 2.0 liter Zetec 4 cyl. motor) he refers to is part of the oil separator, item number 4 on this diagram:
If you bend it, you run the risk of breaking open the seam which will cause you unbelievable grief. You'll have to pull your catalytic converter so you can replace that oil separator. DON'T BEND IT!
spridget reacted to mondeoman in HELP! Broken Plug Pieces in Zetec HELP!
I have also had success with using a pipe cleaner with the end coated in wheel bearing grease. Once inserted in the cylinder, with piston at TDC, I was able to retrieve the debris as it adhered to the wheel bearing grease coated pipe cleaner.
spridget got a reaction from valleyview in Dead fuel pump?
It's impossible to find pure gasoline here too. E10 ruined the new pump too, since I made the previous posts. Probably less than 3000 miles and lots of sitting. I used Stabil too.
I was able to get the pump working again. I removed it from the tank and from the assembly. Tested with 12V and nothing, pump was frozen. I left the pump to sit in PB Blaster for a day. Connected the pump to 12V and the pump WHIRRED strongly. PB Blaster loosened up whatever caused the pump to lock up. Also, the filter sock had completely disintegrated. I purchased a new one for $7. After reinstalling everything, car was back in business.
spridget got a reaction from SVTDEMON in emergency
If you did not open the system, there should not be any need to bleed the system, other than to replace the old fluid.
Did you completely clean the rotors with solvent before installation? Have you inspected the pads and calipers since installation?
spridget got a reaction from Rob Kersey in CEL with several codes pulled- cold snap???
A large vacuum leak will cause a misfire. P1151 means the upstream O2 sensor on Bank 2 (near the radiator) has failed. Cylinders 4,5, and 6 are Bank 2.
Cold temps mean greater temp variation from running and cool down. More expansion / contraction. Old seals fail. Old hoses fail.
The codes are very specific. You have a vacuum leak (large), the front upstream O2 sensor has failed, and the front bank is misfiring, likely because 1) large vacuum leak, and 2) dead O2 sensor.
Keep looking for the leak. Listen for a sucking / whistling sound. The PCV hose is a common fault and will show as P0171 / P0174. Intake manifold gaskets are also common, lower especially since they get hotter and develop more crud build up from the secondary ports.
The exhaust leak may be from the exhaust manifold / y-pipe connection. There is no gasket, just a ball and cup flange. Once the exhaust warms the steel it expands and seals the leak. Running rough and vibrating may have loosened the components.
spridget got a reaction from Rob Kersey in How many miles do you have on your V6 Contour with the Original timing chain?
I disassembled a '98 SVT engine with 135k. No problems. The heads were reused to build a 3L. I didn't rebuild them. They have gone another 45k on the 3L without issue. The block was fine but I had no use for it and scrapped it.
I bought my '97 Sport with a spun rod bearing at 130k. Ran pretty good on 5.5 cylinders. I tried several times to rev the engine to death before I replaced it, but I finally gave up when it wouldn't pop. If the car had been just a little maintained by the previous owner, it would have gone much longer without a problem.
Timing chains virtually never need replacement. Odds are something else will fail long before a chain does. Chain guides may need replacement around 200-300k and then it would be prudent to replace all the timing equipment. You'll know if a guide wears out from noisy clatter and aluminum shavings in the oil.
spridget got a reaction from SVTDEMON in fault codes and performance
Codes may be stored as "pending" before they trigger the check engine light. A reader is required to determine the code. Disconnecting the battery will reset the codes and reset the ECU. I'm not aware of a limp mode... at least on OBD II cars. European ECUs do not use the same programming as North American models, from what I understand.
spridget got a reaction from SVTDEMON in 3L RUNNING RICH
You MUST reprogram the ECU after an engine swap. Despite what anyone says, there is no perfect combination of 2.5L parts that will make a 3L engine swap run correctly without reprogramming. Some have found the secret sauce which allows the engine to run without triggering the CEL, but it's not a perfect tune. The ECU is designed to operate within a very narrow margin to keep emissions in check. It's designed to provide the correct fuel/air mixture for the 2.5L and only the 2.5L (assuming it's not a 2.0L). The ECU cannot "learn" beyond what is programmed.
Get it tuned or don't bother driving the car. You'll only damage the catalytic converters, foul the plugs, and waste fuel. A remap with a rolling road and wide band O2 sensor data is the best method. The programming will be specific to your setup, and not some generic "one size fits all" tune.
spridget got a reaction from SVTDEMON in 3L RUNNING RICH
"Tune" is used to describe the fuel map program or the act of reprogramming the fuel map. Reprogramming the ECU (engine control unit, aka PCM (powertrain control module (automatic trans)) or ECM (engine control module) requires specialized equipment. "Tuners" can refer to the person performing the reprogram or the physical reprogramming device.
Specialized automotive performance dealers may have the equipment to reprogram your car's ECU. The most popular brand for Fords is SCT. SCT dealers can sell you a preprogrammed flash tuning device that you connect to your car's OBD II port. The tuning device "reflashes" the ECU's stored program to adjust for performance modifications. The preprogrammed devices are great for mild bolt ons (air intake, exhaust) but are limited when the modifications are more extreme (engine swap). The best method of reprogramming is to take the car to a shop that offers reprogramming with a chassis dynamometer (dyno, rolling road). The dyno enables the tuner to run the car under real world driving and race track conditions in a safe controlled environment. The tuner can put the engine under a load and tune for specific modifications instead of generic modifications.
spridget got a reaction from Crystalship1 in air intake kit pros and cons?
You can remove or replace everything upstream of the air filter box (snorkle, inner fender port, etc) without ill effect. Replacing anything behind the filter or MAF is risky. The intake plenum which you have marked in the photo is designed to collect and direct air flow into the intake ports evenly and efficiently. Modifying the shape or volume can alter the way the engine breathes.... and without the benefit of CAD and fluid dynamics, all you've got is luck to help you improve on the design.
spridget got a reaction from SVTDEMON in time to disconnect the battery
As a general rule, disconnecting the battery prevents any chance of shorting out a circuit while performing repairs. For cars with computers, disconnecting the battery clears any stored data related to the old components after new components are installed (ie, ignition parts, O2 sensors).
spridget got a reaction from dichay in Engine Removal and Disassembly
Instructions available from AutoZone's public online repair guide:
Disconnect the battery cables, negative cable first. Relieve the fuel system pressure using the recommended procedure. On the 2.5L engine, remove the water pump pulley shield. Remove the pinch bolt and disconnect the steering shaft and joint at the cowl, inside the vehicle. Remove the engine air cleaner and the engine air intake resonators. Properly recover the refrigerant from the A/C system. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front splash shield from between the front sub-frame and the body. Remove the catalytic converter and the exhaust crossover (2.5L engine only). Drain the engine cooling system and engine oil. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies. Separate the left and right stabilizer bar links from the front stabilizer bar. Separate the left and right outer tie rod ends from the front wheel knuckles. Discard the cotter pins. Remove the pinch bolts and separate the front suspension lower control arms from the front wheel knuckles at the ball joints. Remove the left and right wheel hub retainer nuts from the halfshaft ends and remove the halfshafts from the front wheel knuckles. Remove the A/C accumulator retaining screws from the front sub-frame. Disengage the vehicle speed sensor wiring harness at the connector. Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the transaxle. If the engine is to be separated from the transaxle after removal from the vehicle, and the transaxle is an automatic perform the following steps: Remove the right splash shield from the front fender apron. Remove the access plug from the engine rear plate and remove the four torque converter retaining nuts. Push the torque converter into the transaxle front pump support and gear.
[*] Disconnect the wiring to the knock sensor and the oil pressure sensor located on the right side of the cylinder block.[*] Lower the vehicle.[*] Secure the radiator and fan shroud assembly to the radiator support, using safety wire or equivalent.[*] Disconnect the accelerator cable and speed control actuator from the throttle body.[*] Remove the accelerator cable bracket.[*] On vehicles equipped with the 2.5L engine, disengage the three connectors for the engine control wiring from the bracket located on the left-front fender apron and unplug the connectors.[*] Remove the retainer for the engine control wiring from the air cleaner bracket.[*] Remove the ignition control module from the bulkhead, if equipped.[*] Disengage the wiring to the fuel injectors at the connector located near the fuel pressure regulator.[*] Remove the retaining screws from the engine control wiring at the intake manifold.[*] Remove the power steering pump auxiliary reservoir from the bracket and lay on top of the engine assembly using shop towels to absorb the fluid.[*] Disconnect the return hose from the power steering reservoir and plug the hose.
Disconnect the power steering return hose from the power steering pump. Disconnect the wiring from the power steering pressure switch located on the power steering pressure hose. Disconnect the power steering pressure hose bracket from the upper front engine support bracket. Lay the hose on top of the engine. Disconnect the wiring from the powertrain control module and retainer located on the right side of the dash panel. Remove the ground strap for the engine control wiring at the right fender apron. Disconnect the wiring from the alternator and the grounding strap from the alternator mounting bracket. Disconnect the vacuum supply hose from the fitting on the rear of the intake manifold. Disconnect the coolant hoses from the radiator coolant recovery reservoir. Disconnect the hoses from the A/C compressor and plug. Disconnect the fuel return and supply lines from the fuel rail and plug. Disconnect the vacuum supply hose to the EGR valve, EGR pressure sensor and the EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube. If equipped with automatic transaxle, pry the end of the shift cable from the stud, remove the two retaining bolts and remove shift cable and bracket from the transaxle. Remove the wiring to the transmission range sensor and remove the wire retainers. Disconnect the grounding strap from the transaxle. Disconnect the wiring from the ignition coil and the radio ignition interference capacitor. Move the wiring out of the way. Remove the vacuum supply line from the power brake booster. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Remove the evaporative emission hose from the connector located near the radio ignition interference capacitor. Disconnect the heater hose from the connection located near the EGR valve. Disconnect the positive and negative battery cable retainer from the battery tray. If equipped with manual transaxle, remove the retainer and disconnect the clutch hydraulic line from the clutch actuator pipe at the transaxle case. If equipped, disconnect the block heater power supply wiring from the left side of the radiator support. If equipped with automatic transaxle, remove the transmission oil cooler lines from the transaxle. Remove the oil cooler return line from the bracket on the left-hand side of the transaxle. If equipped with manual transaxle, remove the bolt from the shift rod and the nut from the stabilizer bar and remove from the transaxle. Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Remove the four bolts retaining the lower radiator supports to the front sub-frame. Rotate the radiator supports forward. Disconnect the wiring harness from the A/C compressor. Disconnect the A/C suction hose from the A/C condenser core and plug the hose. Disconnect the A/C discharge hose from the A/C accumulator and plug the hose. Position and secure all lines, hoses and components that will be removed with the engine. Disconnect the engine wiring from the heated oxygen sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. Remove the two screws retaining the bumper cover braces to the left and right sides of the front sub-frame and rotate the cover braces forward. Disconnect the power steering oil cooler hoses at the right front sub-frame. Drain the fluid from the hoses. Partially lower the vehicle. Position and secure all lines, hoses and components that will be removed with the engine. Install Powertrain and Sub-frame Support Bracket 134-00250 or equivalent, with Powertrain Lift (hydraulic lift) 134-00251 or equivalent, to support the powertrain assembly for removal from the vehicle.
Be sure that the powertrain and sub-frame support bracket and lift are correctly positioned for safe removal of the powertrain assembly.
Remove the four sub-frame to body retaining bolts. Remove the upper front engine support bracket and the engine and transmission support insulator retaining nuts. With an assistant, carefully lower the powertrain assembly while checking for body interference. With the powertrain assembly lowered from the vehicle, carefully roll the powertrain lift or equivalent away from the vehicle. Using a appropriate engine crane, and crane lifting sling, support the engine using the engine lifting eyes. Remove the left and the right halfshafts from the transaxle. Remove the left and the right front engine support insulators from the sub-frame and transaxle. Using the floor crane and sling or equivalent, raise the engine and transaxle assembly and remove from the sub-frame. Position the transaxle part of the assembly onto a suitable transmission jack. Remove the two starter retaining bolts and remove the starter motor. Remove the battery ground cable from the engine to transaxle retaining stud bolt. Remove the transaxle to engine retaining bolts and separate the engine from the transaxle. If equipped with manual transaxle, remove the six clutch pressure plate retaining bolts and remove the pressure plate and the clutch disc. Remove the eight flywheel retainer bolts and the flywheel from the crankshaft. Remove the engine rear plate. Install the engine to an engine stand for further service.
Remove the engine from the engine stand using the floor crane and sling or equivalent, attached to the engine lifting eyes. Reinstall the engine rear drive plate and flywheel. Tighten the flywheel retaining bolts. If equipped with manual transaxle, install the clutch disc and the clutch pressure plate. Reinstall the engine to the transaxle. If equipped with automatic transaxle, align the torque converter to the flywheel while positioning the engine to the transaxle. Reinstall the engine to transaxle retaining bolts and tighten to 25-34 ft. lbs. (34-46 Nm). If removed, place the sub-frame onto the powertrain and sub-frame support bracket and hydraulic lift. Using the floor crane and sling, position the engine and transaxle assembly onto the sub-frame keeping the crane attached for support. Install Powertrain Alignment Gauge T94P-6000-AH or equivalent, to the left-hand front engine support bracket and sub-frame. Reinstall the through-bolt. Tighten the retaining bolts and the through-bolt to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Reinstall the right engine support insulator retaining bolts and through-bolt to the sub-frame. Leave the bolts finger-tight. Reinstall the battery ground cable to the engine at the transaxle stud bolt. Tighten the retaining nut to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm). Reinstall the starter motor. Reinstall the left and right halfshafts into the transaxle. Install Sub-frame Alignment Pin Set 94P-2100-aH or equivalent into the sub-frame. With an assistant, carefully raise the powertrain assembly into the body while checking for body interference. Reinstall the four sub-frame retaining bolts and tighten to 92-100 ft. lbs. (125-135 Nm). Remove the sub-frame alignment pins.
Be sure that the engine and transaxle are firmly seated against the front and rear insulator brackets.
Using new nuts, install the upper front engine support bracket and the transmission support insulator. Tighten the nuts to 74 inch. lbs. (10 Nm). Remove the sub-frame support bracket and the hydraulic lift. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Tighten the right front engine support insulator to the sub-frame bolts to 30-41 ft. lbs. (41-55 Nm).
Check the position of the right front engine support insulator. It must be centered in its bracket and in perfect alignment front to rear.
Lower the vehicle. Tighten the front engine support bracket nuts to 52-70 ft. lbs. (70-95 Nm). Tighten the engine and transmission support insulator nuts to 30-41 ft. lbs. (41-55 Nm) for automatic transaxles and 52-70 ft. lbs. (70-95 Nm) for manual transaxles. Tighten the right front engine support insulator through-bolt to 75-102 ft. lbs. (103-137 Nm). Remove the powertrain alignment gauge. Reinstall the left front engine support insulator to the sub-frame. Toque the retaining bolts to 84 inch. lbs. (10 Nm).
Check the position of the left front engine support insulator to ensure perfect front to rear alignment.
Retighten the two retaining bolts to 30-41 ft. lbs. (41-55 Nm). Reinstall the left front engine support insulator through-bolt. Tighten the through-bolt to 75-102 ft. lbs. (103-137 Nm). On the remaining steps, installation is the reverse of removal.
spridget got a reaction from dichay in Engine Removal and Disassembly
Note: Intructions are from the 2001 Ford Service CD. Instructions are for a 2001 2.5L Mercury Cougar. 98-00 Contours are similar.
The location of the engine support insulators are discribed looking from the transaxle to the engine.
1. Remove the battery. For additional information, refer to Â«Section 414-01Â». 2. Remove the hood. 3. Remove the water pump pulley cover. 1 Detach the coolant hose from clip. 2 Remove the bolts. 3 Remove the cover. 4. Remove the air cleaner (ACL). For additional information, refer to Â«Section 303-12BÂ». 5. Drain the brake fluid. For additional information, refer to Â«Section 206-00Â». Vehicles with speed control
6. Disconnect the accelerator and speed control cables. 1 Detach the cables from the bracket. 2 Disconnect the accelerator and speed control cables Vehicles without speed control
7. Disconnect the accelerator cable. 1 Detach the cables from the bracket. 2 Disconnect the accelerator cable. All Vehicles
8. Disconnect the bulkhead electrical connector. 9. Loosen the central junction box (CJB) and position it to one side. 10. Disconnect the battery cables and the electrical connector. 11. Remove the fan motor electrical connectors from the battery tray. 12. Remove the four battery tray bolts and remove the three ground cables. 13. Remove the battery tray. 14. Disconnect the fuel lines. For additional information, refer to Â«Section 310-00Â». 15. Disconnect the coolant hoses. 16. Disconnect the coolant hoses from the radiator and from the coolant passages. Position the coolant passage to one side. 17. Disconnect the battery positive cable, the electrical connector and remove the transaxle housing bolt with the ground cable. 18. Disconnect the suction accumulator electrical connector and the two fan electrical connectors. 19. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor and the reverse lamp electrical connectors. 20. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) hose. 21. Disconnect the upper intake vacuum supply line and the heater control vacuum hoses. 22. Note: Use an Allen Key to prevent the piston rod from turning. Loosen the suspension strut lock nuts five turns on both sides (right - hand side shown). 23. Drain the power steering reservoir and pull it out (push - fit) and position it to one side. 24. Disconnect the power steering lines. 1 Remove the bolt and the ground cable. 2 Disconnect the power steering lines and position it to one side. 3 Disconnect the electrical connector. 25. Remove the powertrain control module (PCM) cover plate. Drill out the rivets. 26. Disconnect the PCM electrical connector. 1 Ground cable 2 Bolt 3 Connector 27. Disconnect the coolant expansion tank hoses. 28. Remove the coolant expansion tank. 1 Disconnect the coolant level sensor electrical connector. 2 Remove the bolts. 29. Remove the oil lever indicator and the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector bracket. 30. Loosen the fan from the radiator (one screw on each side). Secure the fan to the subframe with cable ties. 31. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Â«Section 100-02Â». 32. Remove the radiator splash shield. 33. Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Â«Section 303-03Â». 34. Drain the Transmission Fluid. For additional information, refer to Â«Section 308-03Â». 35. Remove the coolant hose from the radiator. 36. Drain the engine oil. Install the drain plug on completion. 37. Disconnect the compressor electrical connector. 38. Remove the condenser core from the radiator. Secure the condenser core to one side with cable ties. 39. Remove the radiator. 40. Remove the fan. Cut the cable ties. 41. Disconnect the HO2S electrical connector. 42. Remove the coolant pipe. 43. Remove the dual converter Y - pipe and the three - way catalytic converter (TWC). Discard the gaskets. 44. Remove the right - hand front fender splash shield (shown with wheel removed). 45. Check the accessory drive belt tension. 1 Fixed cast lug. 2 Right - hand and left - hand moving stop. 3 Belt tensioner. If the right - hand moving stop is touching the fixed cast lug, install a new accessory drive belt during installation. 46. Remove the accessory drive belt. 47. Remove the compressor heat shield. 48. Remove the compressor bracket bolts. Secure the compressor with cable ties and position it to one side. 49. Disconnect the shifter cables and bracket. 1 Disconnect the shifter cables from the gear shift lever. 2 Remove the nuts. 3 Position the shifter bracket to one side. 50. Remove both control arms (right - hand side shown). 51. Using a suitable copper drift, remove the right - hand front drive halfshaft from the intermediate shaft bearing and tie it up using cable ties. Discard the snap - ring. 52. Using a suitable tire lever, remove the left - hand front drive halfshaft from the transaxle and secure it to one side using cable ties. Discard the snap ring. 53. Remove the left - hand support insulator. 1 Nuts 2 Center bolt 54. Remove the left - hand support insulator bracket. 55. Remove the right - hand support insulator. 1 Remove the through bolt. 2 Remove the bolts. 3 Remove the right - hand support insulator. 56. Remove the right - hand support insulator bracket. 57. Lower the vehicle. 58. Install the special tool and a suitable floor crane. 59. Remove the starter motor bracket and the ground cable from the transaxle flange. 60. Remove the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic line. 61. Remove the ACL bracket and the rear upper support insulator. 62. Remove the front upper support insulator from the side member. 1 Remove the bolts. Raise the engine/transaxle assembly slightly to reduce the pressure from the support insulator. 2 Remove the bolt. 63. Using the special tool and a suitable floor crane, remove the engine/transaxle assembly. Position the engine/transaxle on an assembly table. Remove the special tool. 64. Disconnect the starter motor electrical connections. 65. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) electrical connector. 66. Remove the heat shield and the intermediate shaft. 67. Remove the transaxle flange bolts. 68. Remove the transaxle flange bolts (continued). 69. Separate the engine from the transaxle.
1. Disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) tube from the EGR valve. 1 Disconnect the hoses from the EGR tube to the differential pressure feedback EGR. 2 Unscrew the tube fitting. 2. Note: Remove the nuts in the indicated sequence. Remove the right-hand exhaust manifold. Discard the gasket. 3. Remove the bolts and the connecting shaft bracket from the cylinder block. 4. Disconnect the generator electrical connections. 1 Remove the battery positive cable retaining nut. 2 Disconnect the voltage regulator electrical connector. 3 Disconnect the stator circuit electrical connector. 5. Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR electrical connector. 6. Disconnect the electronic vacuum regulator solenoid valve electrical connector. 7. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor and remove the wiring harness. 8. Disconnect the intake manifold runner control (IMRC) cable. 1 Disconnect the IMRC cable from the retainer. 2 Disconnect the IMRC cable end. 9. Remove the IMRC. 1 Disconnect the electrical connector. 2 Remove the bolts. 10. Disconnect the six spark plug wires from the spark plugs. 11. Remove the coil and ignition wires. 1 Disconnect the coil electrical connector. 2 Remove the bolts and the coil. Disconnect the ground cable and the radio suppressor. 12. Disconnect the vacuum supply hoses from the upper intake manifold, the EGR valve vacuum hose and the fuel injector pressure sensor vacuum hose. 13. Disconnect the electronic vacuum regulator (EVR) hoses and remove the vacuum hose harness. 14. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose from the throttle body. 15. Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor electrical connector. 16. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve electrical connector. 17. Note: Remove the bolts in the indicated sequence. Remove the upper intake manifold. Discard the gaskets. 18. Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector. 19. Disconnect the oil pressure switch electrical connector. 20. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connector. 1 Detach the harness from the stud. 2 Disconnect the electrical connector. 21. Disconnect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor electrical connector. 1 Detach the harness from the stud. 2 Disconnect the electrical connector. 22. Detach the in-line electrical connectors. 23. Remove two nuts and the wiring harness. 24. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature warning light electrical connector. 25. Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connectors and remove the wiring harness. 26. Note: Remove the bolts in the indicated sequence. Remove the lower intake manifold. Discard the gaskets. 27. Disconnect the coolant hoses and remove the thermostat housing. 28. Disconnect the coolant distribution tube. 29. Remove the oil level indicator tube. 30. Remove the water pump drive belt. Rotate the belt tensioner clockwise to relieve tension on the drive belt. 31. Remove the positive crankcase ventilation valve and hoses. 1 Remove the nut. 2 Remove the positive crankcase ventilation valve and hoses. 32. Remove the water bypass. 1 Remove the bolts. 2 Remove the water bypass. 34. Remove the flywheel. 1 Remove the bolts. 2 Remove the backing plate. 35. Install the special tool. 36. Remove the crankshaft oil seal. 37. Remove the generator. 1 Remove the bracket bolt. 2 Remove the generator bolts and remove the generator. 38. Remove the bolts and the generator bracket. 39. Remove the oil filter. 40. Note: Remove the bolts in the indicated sequence. Remove the left-hand exhaust manifold. Discard the gasket. 41. Remove the oil pressure switch. 42. Remove the studs and the heat shield. 43. Drain engine oil. 44. Note: Remove the bolts and studs in the indicated sequence. Remove the oil pan. Discard the gasket. Clean and inspect oil pan and cylinder block using metal surface cleaner. 45. Remove the inline connector bracket. 1 Remove the nuts. 2 Remove the bracket. 46. Note: Remove the bolts and studs in the indicated sequence. Remove the cylinder head covers. Discard the gaskets. 47. Using the special tools, remove the water pump drive pulley. 1 Install the special tool. 2 Install the special tool. 3 Remove the water pump pulley. 48. Note: To make sure correct sealing do not scratch the camshaft. Using the special tools, remove and discard the camshaft oil seal. 49. Remove the bolts and the camshaft oil seal retainer. Discard the gasket. 50. Remove the bolts and the power steering pump pulley. 51. Remove the power steering pump and bracket. Remove the five bolts. Remove the six nuts. 52. Note: The crankshaft pulley bolt is tightened to yield and must not be reused. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. 1 Install a suitable strap wrench to hold the crankshaft pulley. 2 Remove crankshaft pulley bolt. 53. Using the special tool, remove the crankshaft pulley. 54. Remove the position sensors. 1 Remove the bolt and the CKP sensor. 2 Remove the bolt and the CMP sensor. 55. Using the special tool, remove the crankshaft front oil seal. 56. Note: Remove the bolts and studs in the indicated sequence. Remove the engine front cover. Discard the gaskets. 57. Remove the CKP sensor pulse wheel. 58. Install the crankshaft pulley and bolt. 59. Remove the right-hand spark plugs. 60. Remove the left-hand spark plugs. 61. Note: Do not rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise. The timing chains may bind causing engine damage. Locate the crankshaft to the correct position. Rotate the crankshaft keyway clockwise to the 11 o'clock position. 62. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to position the crankshaft keyway in the 3 o'clock position. The right-hand camshafts are in the neutral position. 63. Note: Mark the position of all chain drive components to make sure they are assembled in their original positions. Remove the right-hand chain tensioner and tensioner arm. 1 Remove the bolts, the chain tensioner and the right-hand tensioner adapter plate (if equipped). 2 Remove the timing chain tensioner arm. 64. Remove the right-hand timing chain. 1 Remove the bolts and the fixed chain guide. 2 Remove the right-hand timing chain. 65. Note: Camshaft bearing caps are doweled to the cylinder head. If necessary, use a plastic mallet to loosen the caps. Note: Remove camshaft bearing thrust caps No. 1R and 5R first. Do not loosen any other bolts until the thrust caps are removed. Note: Loosen the remaining bolts and bearing caps in the indicated sequence in several passes to allow the camshafts to gradually raise from the cylinder head. Loosen the camshafts (right-hand cylinder head). Note: If the camshaft followers and lash adjusters are to be re-used, mark their position to make sure they are assembled in the original location. Remove the roller finger followers. Remove the hydraulic lash adjusters. 66. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise two revolutions until the keyway is in the 11 o'clock position. 67. Remove the crankshaft pulley, bolt and washer. 68. Remove the left-hand chain tensioner and tensioner arm. 1 Remove the chain tensioner bolts. 2 Remove the chain tensioner and the left-hand tensioner adapter plate (if equipped). 3 Remove the chain tensioner arm. 69. Remove the left-hand timing chain. 1 Remove the bolts and the fixed chain guide. 2 Remove the left-hand timing chain. 70. Note: Remove camshaft bearing thrust caps No. 1L and 5L first. Do not loosen any of the other bolts until the thrust caps are removed. Note: Loosen the remaining bolts and bearing caps in the indicated sequence in several passes to allow the camshafts to gradually raise from the cylinder head. Loosen the camshafts (left-hand cylinder head). Note: If the camshaft followers and lash adjusters are to be re-used, mark their position to make sure they are assembled in the original location. Remove the roller finger followers. Remove the hydraulic lash adjusters. 71. Note: Remove the bolts in the indicated sequence. Remove the left-hand cylinder head. Remove and discard the gaskets. 72. Note: Remove the bolts in the indicated sequence. Remove the right-hand cylinder head. Remove and discard the gaskets. 73. Remove the power steering bracket. 74. Remove the oil separator. Remove and discard the gasket. 75. Remove the oil intake tube. 1 Remove nut. 2 Remove bolts. 3 Remove the oil intake tube. 76. Remove the oil pan baffle. 77. Note: Remove the bolts in the indicated sequence. Remove the oil pump. 78. Note: Mark the position of the connecting rod caps to the connecting rods to make sure of correct installation. Note: Discard the connecting rod bolts after removal. Remove the connecting rod bolts, the connecting rod caps and the lower connecting rod bearings. 79. Inspect the tops of the cylinder bores. If necessary, remove ridge and carbon build-ups from each cylinder. 80. Install the special tool to the connecting rods. 81. Note: Before removing pistons, inspect the top of the cylinder bores. If necessary, remove the ridge from each cylinder. Note: Re-attach the connecting rods and caps after removal to avoid mismatch. Remove the pistons. 1 Rotate the crankshaft to locate pistons at the bottom of travel. 2 Push the piston, connecting rod and upper bearing through the top of the cylinder. 82. Remove the bolts in the indicated sequence and remove the lower cylinder block. 83. Note: Mark the position of the upper and lower crankshaft main bearing and the crankshaft thrust bearing for reassembly. Remove the lower crankshaft bearings. 1 Remove the lower crankshaft main bearings. 2 Remove the lower crankshaft thrust main bearing. 84. Note: Never remove any pipe plugs or dowels unless they are to be replaced or the cylinder block is to be washed. Remove the crankshaft. 85. Clean the cylinder block with a soap and water solution. Dry the cylinder block completely with compressed air.
spridget got a reaction from dichay in Engine Removal and Disassembly
Metric Tap 10mm x 1.5mm Part Numbers:
MS 95726 Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Set ES 72159 Fel-Pro Cylinder Head Bolt Set (2 req.) 9540 PT Fel-Pro Cylinder Head Gasket (Left Hand) 9541 PT Fel-Pro Cylinder Head Gasket (Right Hand) HS 9540PT2 Fel-Pro 3L Cylinder Head Gasket Set (Both heads and valve cover gaskets) HS 9540PT4 Fel-Pro 3L Cylinder Head Gasket Set (Left and Right head gaskets only) HS 9038 PT Fel-Pro 2.5L Head Set (complete upper engine gasket kit) HS 9038-1 Fel-Pro Conversion Set (complete lower engine gasket kit) TCS 45966 Fel-Pro Camshaft Rear Seal Set TCS 45967 Fel-Pro Crankshaft Front Seal Set (front cover and oil pump pickup tube seals) 5060715 Dayco Poly Cog Serpentine Belt 5030268 Dayco Poly Cog Water Pump Belt
spridget got a reaction from neron_dog in Don't feel the power under 3500 ~3800 RPM imrc
If the cat was clogged, you wouldn't get power over 3500-3800 RPM, the engine would run hot, and the exhaust would smell like rotten eggs. Your symptoms still sound more like the IMRC is stuck open. If the IMRC cable opens too far, the IMRC won't close until the engine is shut off (power to the IMRC is off). The problem may be intermittent. Check the cable for frays, kinks, or damage and the make sure it's seated correctly in the bracket. If the bracket is bent, even slightly, you can have this problem.
spridget got a reaction from thewasz in 3l oval port swap help
One thing you must plan for is aftermarket tuning. No matter which route you take to complete your 3L swap, you must get it tuned or you'll never pass emission testing. Add this cost to your budget before taking the plunge.
The best engines to use are Taurus/Sable '01-05. '01-03 and '04-05 engines have some minor differences, but overall, the swap is the same. Power output seems to be slightly higher with the '04-05 engines. Taurus/Sable engines tend to run several hundred $$ less than Escape engines. Escape engines are essentially the same, but the upper engine mount bracket is already installed and the oil pan and front cover are compatible with the Contour/Cougar. The Taurus engine will require you to modify the upper engine bracket to fit (not a big deal) or remove a head to install (without modification to the bracket). Otherwise, external bits from the old 2.5L engine will swap onto the 3L block without modification. All 3L blocks require cutting off a bolt tab to install the Contour's alternator bracket (again, very simple). Do not bother using the SVT cams in a complete 3L engine. You will not gain any real performance from them.
3L hybrids are more sensitive to the builder's expertise. Most fail because the builder cut corners. Plus, the heads are used parts and typically already have high mileage when they are installed. If you choose to go this route, it is not necessary to modify the heads in any way (ie install bigger valves, port/polish, etc). I recommend a basic head refresh with new stem seals and such, but otherwise, leave them alone.
spridget got a reaction from SVTDEMON in Failed Emissions Test
P0171 indicates a vacuum leak in the air intake. This is usually a very simple diagnosis and repair. Look along the intake tract for any loose fittings, broken hoses, and listen for hissing sounds. You can use carb cleaner spray to find the leak by spraying around fittings and mating surfaces (where the intake manifold bolts to the head). If the idle increases while you are spraying in a particular area, you've found your leak.
P1380 refers to a problem with variable cam timing solenoid. I'm unfamiliar with the 4cyls, so I can't help much there.
spridget got a reaction from SVTDEMON in It never ends!!
Also, check Terry's forum "Knowledgebase FAQ" for more stuff.
spridget got a reaction from SVTDEMON in New to the Contour SVT World
Dash warpage near the base of the winshield. Most '98's are safe, but some later ones use the 99+ dash.
Engine bay wiring harness insulation flaking. This is very common to '97-98 models. Replacement harnesses are essesntially nonexistent. Never use a pressure washer under the hood.
Older engines require better lubrication. A premium synthetic 10w-30 is best. Motorcraft filters are very good.
Water leaks into the trunk. Remove the rear reflector and tape up some of the holes, and replace the weather strip gasket along the top edge of the reflector.
ABS pump issues. If the brake fluid is turning green, or the lights dim significantly when the ABS pump engages under hard braking, you may have future problems.
Check the trans fluid. If it appears to be ATF, dump it ASAP. You can perform a flush with diesel oil like Delo 10w-40 and let it work for a few hundred miles. Then replace with Royal Purple SynchroMax. Do not use gear oil or ATF.
I'm not sure about the trunk light.