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Ferret II

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Ferret II last won the day on February 27 2012

Ferret II had the most liked content!

About Ferret II

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  • Birthday September 24

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    Animals, Fiction Writing, Cars (driving)

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  • Vehicle owned
    95 Tour & 96 Myst (V-6 MTX's)
  1. Elusive Ferret checking in! :) It sounds like a truly epic group this time. I wish I could make it, but already had something planned :( I will hope for news - better yet, pics! 20+ Contiques is truly amazing. My two pre-98 rascals are doing well. Ferret got a new(ish) muffler system. Just regular stock, but nice to have the muddy sound from three or so rusty holes gone!
  2. Thank you for sharing this with us, Dom. I am just so sorry to hear the news. Terry has felt like such a permanent – and huge – pillar in our community, that it’s hard to believe he’s gone. I’ve truly appreciated his unique personality and his ready willingness to share his vast knowledge and skills these many years. I can only begin to imagine what his sudden passing must be like for his family and closest friends. My deepest condolences to them. RIP, Terry.
  3. Sorry I can't help with an idea for pricing, but it looks very pretty! So clean looking, and I like the contrast of white with the tinted windows. Sorry you have to sell it, but I hope it stays in the forum and you get a good price.
  4. Thank you, Terry! I don’t know for sure when the rod shifter was changed to cable (I think 1998?), and am wondering if there’s any chance the backup lamp switch for the '98-99 Contour or Mystique 2.5L w. MTX might work, or be modifiable? We haven't taken out the backup lamp switch (it’s not very easy to take off, so hoping to have the part first); but from the outside it looks like the ’98-99 switch, which is available - I pasted a couple links to pictures here: http://btsautoparts.com/products/sw-5229-motorcraft-back-up-switch-new http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-by-bwd-back-up-light-switch-s26077/18971428-P?searchTerm=back+up+lamp+switch# Below is a link to a picture of the backup lamp switch in our car. The harness visible above was pulled out of the switch. From a variety of sources, including the Ford manual, we were expecting a two-wire switch, whereas the harness has a five-position connector, which seems very odd. Only four of the wires goes into the switch, and it’s possible two of those are ghosts (if there are only two pins on the switch itself, like there are on the ’98-99 switch). Thanks again.
  5. Ferret II


  6. Ferret II

    Backup Lamp Switch

    Sorry, I posted this by a mistake. Moderators, please feel free to delete it!
  7. Hello. The wheel speed sensors tested okay, and I’ve checked some wiring and grounds. Still trying to rule out whatever I can before taking off components. I’ve found a backup lamp switch issue, which is probably unrelated but I’d like rule it out. The back-up light comes on briefly when I start to back up, then goes out. If I barely hold the transmission in reverse, even lightly touching the shift knob, the backup light stays on, operating as it should. I searched here and on various other forums, but found little info. A pretty comprehensive search for the part has turned up no availability – OEM or aftermarket – of the backup lamp switch I need, which is for a pre-98 MTX (rod shifter). Does anyone know if a very slight adjustment to the linkage could correct the backup light issue? I’m guessing this might be a question Terry may be very familiar with! Also, any suggestions for the easiest route to the ABS module wiring, so I can check the connections on the two wiring harnesses? Thanks!
  8. Hi. Years ago I replaced the trunk lifters on my '95 Contour SE, which has the small pre-'98 spoiler. I got Monroe lifters from Rockauto, and found them too stiff. They're finally loosening up a bit, but for a long time I had to have both hands free to close the trunk. I also have to make sure to not let the trunk open on its own, because it bounces at the top and could damage the hinges. Maybe I got a particularly stiff pair of Monroe lifters. In any case, they might be fine with a heavier spoiler. Sorry not to post sooner. I searched for an earlier thread I thought I'd posted on about this, but couldn't find it. I guess either I'm not great at searching, or I had posted something on CEG.
  9. In the EVTM Ford manual on page 151-4, there’s a diagram of the engine bay showing an ABS Diagnostic Connector; it’s located at the inner, top front area of the wheel tower and numbered C-126. Just wondering if the following is correct: If I hook up a ground to this connector it should flash ABS codes (in the case they exist), i.e., the ABS lamp would blink out a code inside the car. If this is correct, does anyone have any other information about the procedure for this? For example, should the car be running or ignition on; and should it be temporarily or continuously grounded? I want to make sure I don’t ground something out! The reason I’m approaching it this way is I can’t get codes through the DLC connector using any of my scan tools. The DLC looks to be an OBDII, but does not provide ABS data, which may be why the ABS Diagnostic Connector is under the hood. Thanks!
  10. Thank you very much for the comments! Both are very helpful. We continue to troubleshoot and gather information, and I'll be posting an update soon.
  11. Hi. Here's a little more info. What’s happening is my Traction Control light sometimes comes on after driving awhile, and stays on. Upon re-start, after the engine has cooled, it operates normally for awhile. About a week ago, on a very rainy day, the TC light came on. However, this time, a bit later in the drive, the ABS light started blinking in time with the TC light – i.e., when one would flash off the other would flash on. As I drove this “light show” grew quite fast and somewhat random (though still following the one light on the other off pattern). I didn’t notice if it was related to driving speed, but it didn’t appear at all related to braking. This weekend, on a less rainy day, I drove the car and eventually the TC light came on, but the ABS light stayed off. Also, the CEL came on during the “light show” drive, but when we read the engine data there was nothing new or surprising. However, the issue is we can’t access any ABS data (this is through the OBII under-dash connector). There’s a message “Trying to Communicate”, but nothing happens. We have three scan tools, and all three read ABS/wheel speed/wheel sensor data on our Chevy GMC truck, but we cannot get any of the scan tools to retrieve any of this data on the Mystique. The three scan tools are: Snap On MT 2500, Tech One, and Auto Enginuity. The Mystique factory manual does call for a brake-out cable connected to a under hood connector utilizing a star tester, but we think that may be because the modern scan tools may not have been available in the mid-90s. The GMC truck is a ’96, too, so it seems a Ford issue. My tires are new and properly inflated; and at least the front brake pads are pretty new, and the brakes work fine. The car has 60K miles, and so far the engine harness appears in great shape. Also, just to note, on my car when the TC button is pressed the light comes on and TC is off/disabled. Press the button again and the light goes off, enabling TC. However, currently, after the light spontaneously turns own depressing the TC button does nothing. Any ideas about accessing data or otherwise troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
  12. Hi. Has anyone had success reading ABS codes? Our scan tool, despite being fairly sophisticated, just can’t seem to communicate and retrieve ABS data. We think the issue is related to diagnostic standardization being developed around the time the car was manufactured (’96 Mercury Mystique LS, MTX, 2.5L). Any tips or ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  13. Hey Mondeoman! Thank you for your compliment, though I think I have plenty of padding in my reviews, too, despite laughable attempts to be brief. Given the monsoons this winter I'm loving the Michelin Premier A/S, now they're at 35 psi. Just fantastic in the rain. I don't mind feeling a little road, and the tires have extra padding (and I'm not lacking in it, either!) so the added air works fine for me, too. The only way I can remotely afford Michelins is at Discount when the timing is right and I get both the tire and the CareCard rebates (although I'm hoping to win the lotto, too!) Plus this time the money back for the weather checking problem. Still, it's great to know there's a decent affordable performance tire available by Falken, and I know my brother will be happy to hear of the good reviews here, as he loves his new Falkens his older model Maxima. I've always vaguely wondered why 31 f, 35 r is recommended for both my cars, and my husband has also wondered, given the heavy engine up front. In the past I've compromised and run closer to 33, with an extra pound in the back when I hit it right, but for now am keeping the Premiers even. Wishing everyone warm holidays, full of health and love.
  14. Oops, I had a typo in an earlier post! I’m rolling standard for my ’95 SE, at 205-60-R15. Also, per the sticker on my door, T rating is standard, but Discount always says standard for my cars is H rated, and I generally get tires with the slightly higher rating. Well, I ended up getting the Michelin Premium A/S. With a $300 credit Discount gave me for bad weather checking in my old Michelins (Pilot Exaltos that were at about half tread), and $120 in Discount/Michelin rebates, I ended up paying $220 total for tires, installation, and the added Discount warranty. Discount definitely did me right on this one! With rebates, the Michelins were only about $100-120 more, total, than the Yoko YK 580’s or Falken Pro G4’s I’d been considering, and in the end I went with the Michelins, thinking they might be a bit safer in rain, and possibly snow, though I might have liked driveability in the performance tires more. As for the tires, there are many positive reviews for the Michelin Premier A/S, but also some complaints that include noise, feeling like a “jelly doughnut” was installed on your steering wheel. I would say I’ve experienced those complaints, plus more sensitivity to road crest, and some resistance to turning. The tires do stick like glue – maybe they’re too sticky? - and are great in the rain; also, they’re very stable at 70+, so no balance issues I can discern. However, when I first drove away on the tires my first thought was, “what’s wrong with my car?” due to a lack of steering responsiveness and increased play in the steering wheel. Given the steering issues, and noise, I’ve pondered taking these tires back, but now that I’ve messed with the air pressure a bit, I probably won’t. Per my direction, Discount had inflated the tires to 32 (fr) and 33 (rr) at installation – the pressure I liked in the Michelin Pilot Exaltos, and in the Michelin Primacy’s on my Mystique. With the cold weather over the past three weeks I’ve lost a couple pounds during my test drives of the tires, so I decided to up the air pressure yesterday, and a Discount guy ended up putting in 35 all round. What a difference! I feel a bit “buoyant”, but steering response is back. On Dec. 10 the 30-day trial is up, so in all likelihood I’ll keep these tires, but I do think it’s odd that adding air pressure makes such a difference, so I’ll do a little more test driving. In terms of noise, they do whine at certain speeds on certain roads, but I compared them to the Michelin Primacy’s, on the Mystique, and those “sing”, too, so I decided not to worry about it. (I’ve got a developing hole in my muffler that’s more worrisome – lol!) I may have been happier with the Falkens, but who knows. I know my brother loves his, and when you add Mondeoman’s endorsement I probably couldn’t have gone wrong. A few Discount guys recommended the Falken Pro-G4’s over the Yoko YK-580’s, too, which I found interesting. Here’s one of the more interesting comments I came across on the Premier A/S: “Those Michelin Premier A/S tires go at it a different way - almost like two different tires in one. Lots of sipes, almost continuous center rib for smooth, straight driving. But those sipes also allow for a significant amount of tread compliance - great for light snow, wet roads - but tends to wander and pull, especially on uneven roads. Again - their ride might have been improved with playing with tire pressures - though Michelins generally don't tolerate higher pressure like other manufacturers.” http://www.corolland.com/forums/index.php?/topic/25417-tire-selection-for-2011-corolla-le-all-season/ I thought of swapping the tires on my two cars, to check if I had the same issues with the Premiers on the Mercury, but that’s way too much work, and given the difference running them at 35psi I think I’ll settle in with the Premiers and be fine with them. That’s my rather windy tire review of the day!
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