bullseye670

Thanks Dom. The old, "use your search key" came back to my mind right after the post. I discovered the move the carpet trick. I did have to use the die grinder to cut access holes though. I do have an assortment of power tools. That won't be much to fix. I did get the subframe off and the trans out right afterwords Now I understand the , through the top method. I have pulled them out the top in a lot less time than just the trans. this way. The rear main was definitely leaking. I dropped off the flywheel today, will order a clutch kit in the afternoon tomorrow after I get me a big a** buck in the morning. Tomorrow is opening day here in Michigan!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can hardly wait to put this thing back together. It don't look like fun! Thanks, Brian...............................

Hi guys. I have just gotten back into the Contour scene. I bought a 99 SE sport w/ a 5 speed. with a leaky rear main seal.92K miles on the car. Very clean. I have removed the engine and trans in the past out the top on prior projects.. I figured this time I would do it by the book and remove the trans out the bottom. From what I understand, the engine was dropped before to replace the alternator. My problem is the rear 2 undercarrige bolts are just spinning. There does not seem to be anyway th get at the nuts up in the frame. A car I had before looked like a trans shop used a cutting torch to cut an access hole in the frame to get at them. Is that what I need to do? I am afraid that even if I switch routes right now and go out the top, I need to tighten back up those 2 rear bolts, which I don't think will happen without being able to get at the nuts, which are not accessible. I really need help. My wife is pissed because I bought another Contour, I wasn't going to pay $700 to get the $20 seal replaced, besides being pretty familiar with the Contour. Besides this, I am ready to drop it. One last thing, there were no clips on the ends of the axle shafts where they go in the trans. Did someone remove them? It looks kike there is a spot for them on the shafts. Thanks for any and all help, Brian.........................................

On the half shaft nut, rent a socket set from the local auto parts store and use a impact or real large 1/2' breaker bar. Those are real tight the entire way off/on. I try either a prybar slipped under the knuckle by the ball joint, or try stepping down on the control arm. You might need to heat up the knuckle by the strut to get it to move off there. Try not to heat up the strut too much. A large, very large hammer will help here. Good luck. It gets a lot easier after a few times. I didn't want to pay to have them done the first time. It was $200 a side. Only thing was that I couldn't get the bearings out, even with the press at work. I ended up taking them to the shop, paid about $135 for them to remove and install the new bearings. Plus I paid for the bearings. Wou've been better to just let them do the whole job!!!!!! Now I can do one side in about 20 minutes. Thats the ones that I've removed before and everything is anti siezed or oiled real good. Good luck, Brian........

Damn Gremlins!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yee Haw! Happy days are here again.

Sounds like quite the experience!! Glad your OK.

PM sent..............

Wow, talk about a senior moment (brain fart). I was just explaining to my wife that the white tag on the Taurus engine has the date on it. Dugh!!!!! Guess I was more concerned with the vin than the date. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Mike. I didn't notice any relief cuts, but I'll look for them today. I would assume that the vin should be on the engine block. The numbers I posted were definetly unique to the engine and done by a computerized machine. Its on a flat area that looks like they would put the car specs there. Brian...............

Ok,I was removing the timing cover off the 98' SVT and on the rear of the harmonic balancer was a few codes, part numbers or whatever. Also what looks like a born on date of 06/15/2002. I was wondering if the balancer was replaced or possible the entire engine. The car still ran before I got it but was smashed. just want to know the engine year. On the side of the block I found some codes that look like they were typed by a computer but they don't match my vin. I thought I'd find the vin or part of it on the block somewhere. Heres what was etched into the block. 0202.0305 then below that, . 51222222 On the end of thee crank, 83 82 85 88 and cast into the block, RF-F-53E-6015_MC Does anyone see anything in these codes?? Thanks...............

I keep hearing that the Escape is so close to the 2.5L parts. It sure doesn't look that way to me. Perhaps I need to look it over a little better. My escape engine is a 06'. I suppose if I could use the Escape timing cover, then the fuel rail would work out fine. It looks like the belt tensioner is not in the same location on my 06' Escape. Also, where the motor mount is at, the power steering pump needs to go. Also, the 2 oil pan holes to the trans are approx 8.5" apart while the 2.5L are 7.5" apart. When I research the engine fitment for a replacement, at least on car-parts, they show 2005, 06' and 07' as all beeing the same. What gives????

I really like the info I'm getting out of this thread. I have a real problem with calling the Escape , an EXPLORER. No Explorer here, only Escape. Ok, guess I jumped the gun picking up this other 3.0L. It was real cheap, and I'm going to be using the c.o.p.'s on my truck once I get 2 more. I can part it out the rest and get my money back and then some. Was going to use the fuel rail on the Taurus motor.Looks like the 05' and 06' Escape fuel rail will end up hitting the motor mount. Guess I'll just flip it over(Taurus rail)..... So Terry, are you saying I've got to weld some aluminum stock on the sides of the Taurus pan in order to have enough material to drill the holes? Swapping the Escape pan is not the best choice??

Thanks Aussie, Brian...............................

Well, I ran off and picked up an 06' explorer engine for a few parts to put on my 04' Taurus 3.0 that I'm doing. Guess I didn't do enough research. The oil pan holes to bolt to the trans appear to be approx. 8.5" apart vs 7.5" on my 2.5 L engine. The fuel rail bar, from what I've now found after searching a little harder probable will hit the motor mount. Guess I'll just flip over the Taurus one. I'm going to drill the 2 holes on the oil pan. The Taurus pan appears to be too narrow to drill any holes in. The bottom bolt holes are approx. 5" apart on it. The reason for this post- I am installing into a 96' se. Engine is still in it. I have a 98' svt for parts. Are the bolt patterns (trans to engine)the same on those years??? I am getting the Taurus engine ready to go using the timing cover and motor mount from the svt parts and was going to modify the oil pan holes to match the 98' trans, seeing how its setting in the garage.

Let me know how you do. I am now driving a 98' Mystique and am also doing the foglights on it. For some reason the 99' that I did the foglights on last year had all the wires there. My 98' that I'm currently driving doesn't have the wires at the lights either. Brian...........................